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Quick and Easy Way To Make Sound Activated Props Work as Motion Activated

27K views 36 replies 17 participants last post by  atwalt  
#1 ·
Extremely Simple PIR Prop Trigger Version 3

About three years ago I posted a tutorial on how I use a PIR driveway alert to trigger props that use a sound sensor for their trigger. That tutorial was very basic and described only using the driveway alert right out of the box to trigger sound activated props. While this worked very well there was still a little annoying chime when the driveway alert activated. The post received a lot of feedback along with some great suggestions. This tutorial uses the same driveway alert but has a simple modification based on wonderful suggestions from other forum members, especially BobbyA, that makes this trigger even more effective. I use this PIR trigger system on all of my sound activated props (and I have a lot of them) and it works great every time. You should be able to complete this setup within a couple of hours.

Materials:



1 - Driveway Alert – About $10 - $16 on sale at Harbor Freight
2 - Small gauge speaker wire – About $8 per 25’ roll at Lowe’s Hardware
3 – Wire connectors - Abut $4 per package. You will need both male and female connectors
4 – A 5 or 10 ohm resister - $about $4 per pack of 5
5 - Can of flat black spray paint - $1.00 at Walmart

Tools:



1 – Small screwdriver
2 – Heat gun or hair dryer
3 – Soldering iron with rosin core solder for electrical connections
4 – Wire cutters
5 – Wire strippers
6 – Wire crimpers
7 – Dremmel tool or small cutting tool
8 – Glue gun with glue sticks

Ok, let’s get started.

Step 1: Open the driveway alert receiver case and locate the speaker. Using the small wire cutters cut the wires to the speaker. Leave enough wire on both ends to allow adding wire to extend the speaker from the case.


Step 2: Using the Heat gun to soften the glue holding the speaker remove the speaker from the case. Use caution. It will take only a little heat so soften the glue enough to remove the speaker. Too much heat will warp the plastic case. It helps if you use a small screwdriver to carefully lift the speaker from the case.





Step 3: Strip the insulation from the cut ends of the speaker wires and from the ends of the wire you are adding to the speaker.

Step 4: Using the soldering gun and solder, solder a short length of wire to the cut speaker wires then use the glue gun and glue insulate the connection with a dab of glue Note: I am not great at soldering but you don’t have to be. It doesn’t have to be pretty. But if you don’t want to try soldering the wires you can just twist the wires of any of these connections together and hold them together and insulate them with a dab of glue from the hot glue gun.





Step 5: On the other end of these speaker wires attach wire connectors. Set this aside for now.



The finished conmections should look something like this. Set this part aside for now.



Step 6: Now moving to the driveway alert case, using the soldering gun and solder attach a 5 or 10 ohm resister to one of the speaker wires inside the driveway alert case



Step 7: Next using the solder gun and solder attach a short length of new speaker wire to the speaker wires in the driveway alert case. This wire needs to be long enough to exit the case. Now using the wire crimpers crimp a female connector on the ends of the wire.



Step 8: Using the glue gun and glue, secure the soldered ends of the wire to the inside the plastic case. This will secure the wire as well as provide insulation for the electrical connections. Be sure the connections are in a space that is away from the circuit board and will allow the plastic case to be put back together.



Step 9: Using the dremmel or some other similar small cutting tool cut a hole in the driveway alert plastic case to allow the speaker wires to exit.



Step 10: Put the case back together and using the glue gun and glue secure the speaker wires in the exit hole.



Step 11: Now take the speaker and wire assembly and using the glue gun and glue secure the driveway alert speaker over the sound sensor of your prop (in this case my interactive talking pumpkins). Just use a little glue around the edge of the speaker to secure it to the prop then secure the wires to the prop with glue to keep them from pulling away.



Step 12: Now you need some a speaker wire assembly to connect the PIR receiver to the speaker. Cut a length of speaker wire to whatever length you need and then crimp male connectors on each end.



Step 13: Using the hot glue gun and glue put a dab of glue over the speaker hole in the plastic receiver case. This will keep paint from going inside the receiver when you paint the case.



Step 14: Now paint both the PIR sending unit and the receiver flat black.



That's all there is to it. When you are ready to set the assembly up just put the PIR sending unit wherever you want to trigger the prop. Put the prop with the speaker attached in place. Put the receiver where you want it by the prop and connect the receiver and the prop together with the wire you made in step 12.

One note of caution however. If you use more that one of the driveway alerts to trigger different props be sure to get driveway alerts that operate on different channel frequencies. If you don’t every time one prop is triggered every other prop on that frequency will trigger at the same time. I learned this the hard way. There should be a sticker on the box with the channel for the alert close to the USP code bar.



Here is how the setup works on this prop.


I hope this is useful.
 
#3 ·
Sorry A Guy In Town, , I think you might have found this post before I was actually finished with it. The system works by sending a signal to the speaker just as it would if it was being used as designed for a driveway alert that chimes. The difference is with the speaker removed from the receiver and placed over the sound sensor of the prop and with the 5 or 10 ohm resister wired into one of the speaker wires the speaker doesn't chime but it will still activate the sound sensor. That was the tip from BobbyA that makes this system work so great.
 
#4 ·
Thanks Scary Papa for the tutorial. I was one of those who asked for it and will be doing a few of these for next year's props. Great photos and everything looks clearly laid out and will be easy enough to do. Like the tip on the glue when ready to paint. As for the channel heads up, I still remember ROTFLOL reading your original post somewhere on the original driveway alert thread where you figured out the importance of the channels! So vivid I can still picture the chaos I envisoned reading your description. The haunt was in a barn if I remember correctly. Anyway, thanks for taking the time to do the tutorial.
 
#8 ·
Ghost of Spookie, Yeah that first year was really a hoot. That was the first year I figured out that the driveway alerts could be used to trigger sound activated props but I wasn't smart enough to realize that if I used more than one alert on the same channel when one PIR activated it would send a signal to all of the receivers on the same channel. Actually our haunt is not in our barn but outside on ten acres. It was hilarious when all those props would activate at the same time. Finally BobbyA took pity on me and told me how to find the channel each alert worked on on the back of the box. Who knew? Anyway, thanks for the reply and nice comment.

Hey DaveintheGrave, good to hear from you again. Glad you thought the tut might be helpful.

Eigengrau, I am not expert on electronics so this questions might be better answered by BobbyA or J-Man or one of the other gifted forum members but I don't think removing the sound sensor from the prop and wiring in the driveway alert directly to the sound sensor wires would work, I believe the sound activated props work on receiving an actual audio input to trigger. That is what happens with the speaker on the driveway alert triggers even though with the resister inline you can't hear any sound. I think by removing the sound sensor from the prop it would not activate. However, I now remember doing just this very thing on a cheap snoring skeleton I bought and it actually did (and still does) work but afterward I was told that this might burn out some of the electronic components so I never tried it again since this method is so successful.

iggyman72, thank you so much for the nice comment. Let me know how it works for you if you try it.
 
#10 ·
ScaryChuck, not a silly questionnat all. PIR means Passive Infra Red. A PIR can detect slight changes in tenperature such as the change in temperature of the environment when a person passes in front of the PIR sensor. It acts sort of like a switch and props.that are motion activated use PIR's for their triggers. At least that's what the big boys tell me. :D
 
#12 ·
doto, thanks. I am happy that the tuts seem to be a little helpful to my forum friends. But I have to say I am really not very knowledgeable about any of this stuff. It is mostly trial and error and a little bit of theft of other members ideas along the way...LOL
 
#14 ·
JoBu2016, excellent question. The answer is no. Once the PIR activates the prop it will go through its normal sequence (whatever that may be) and will not stop or reset if people walk in front of the PIR during its routine. 50 people can walk in front of the PIR while the prop is activated and nothing will happen. Once the prop is finished with its routine it will reset normally and then will activate again if the PIR is triggered by someone subsequently walking in front of it. This set up does nothing to change the way the prop operates. The prop will function the same way if would if someone triggered the prop through the normal sound sensor. All this setup does is trigger the sound sensor.
 
#15 ·
I went to Harbor Freight today to look at the driveway alarms and noticed they have three different model numbers. There was only one model number, 93068,had channel number on it and they only had one in stock. The instructions for the other two did not mention the ability to change the channel internally. Can you change the frequency internally on the mode numbers 62447 and 61910? I would love to implement this idea however if I cannot get ones with different channels or change the channels in the other two models then I unfortunately will have to look elsewhere for these alarms. Can anyone provide any input on the different models? Thanks.
 
#16 ·
I love these things, I use them on larger props and do it the idiots way by just turning the volume down to the "low" setting for the chime sound and zip tying the receiver part up against the prop sensor that's triggered by sound and camouflaging it either under a dress or something. It has worked incredibly well for me. I will save this and possibly to the "high tech" version in you tutorial. I have to say though, even the way I do it is awesome. This is one of the best things I've learned.
 
#17 ·
jtrothrock, yes the driveway alerts that do not have a channel designation can be changed to different channels. BobbyA provided this information in one of the numerous replies to my original tutorial on using these driveway alerts. He said you can change the channel by moving the jumpers on the circuit board. However, I have never tried this as I normally can find these alerts at Harbor Freight with different channel designations. Here is the link to my original post where BobbyA provides the tip on how to change the channel designtion. Hope this helps.

http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutor...com/tutorials-and-step-by-step/120923-extremely-simply-pir-prop-trigger-16.html
 
#18 ·
tinafromidaho, I'm glad the tutorial was useful for you. It really is a quick and easy way to use a PIR to activate props. However, I do really encourage you to give the improved method a try by simply extending the speaker wires and adding a 10 ohm resistor. You will be amazed at the result. And it is not really hard at all once you do it the first time.
 
#19 ·
tinafromidaho, I am glad this information was useful for you and that your props work so well using this setup. However, I would encourage you to try the improved version by simply cutting the speaker wires and extending the speaker and adding a 10 ohm resistor to one of the speaker wires. It is very easy to do and you will be amazed at the result. Oops looks like my original reply posted after all. My Bad!! :eek:
 
#20 ·
Oops...I believe I forgot what I think is an important point when hacking the driveway alert. When you paint the sending and receiving units be sure to tape over the PIR window in the sending unit. If you paint over the PIR window the sending unit will be blind and cannot see out. And don't forget to remove the tape after painting the sending unit. Also, tape over the LED light in the front of the sending unit and the lights on the front of the receiving unit. Also, tape over the "ON/OFF" switch and the "HI / LO" switch on the receiving unit. I use painters tape but you can use any tape that you want. It is important to tape over these places so you don't cover the markings. You will want to be able to see which is 'ON" and which is "OFF" on the receiver as well as which is the "HI" and LO" setting on the receiver after you paint it. You will also need to be able to see the lights working on both the sending unit and the receiving unit in the event you are not sure if the unit is working. If you have painted over them you will most likely not be able to see them light up. You can just lift off the tape to see if the lights light up. If the lights light up it is working. You can then just cover them again with another piece of tape. Also, tape over the 6v adapter port as you don't want to get paint there and foul the plug receiver in case you decide to use a power adapter to power the receiver. I leave the tape in place except for the "ON" /"OFF" switch on the receiver and the PIR window on the sending unit because I don't want the lights to be seen when the unit activates in the Haunted Forest. I"m sure everyone is smarter than me and already figured this out but just in case I thought I would try to keep you from learning the hard way like I did.



One other thing I do when painting is I do not paint the bottom of either the sending unit or the receiver. Here is where I write the channel number of the alert and also what I set the alert up to trigger. I have several props in our haunt that use these driveway alerts (about 25) so I don't want to get mixed up and put a channel 9 sending unit to trigger a Dracula prop with a channel 14 receiver. Believe me when I tell you...IT WON'T WORK ! However, it will trigger the Headless Harry prop at the other end of the Cemetery...don't ask....:D

 
#25 ·
ScaryCanuck, no worries. I didn't know what that meant either when I started. A PIR means "Passive Infra Red". The PIR sensor will measure the heat given off by someone walking in front of the sensor window and will trigger based on the difference in the temperature of the heat source (person) and the ambient temperature. This is a very simple explanation and I am by no means an expert on electronics. Other forum members can give you a lot better explanation of how these things work.