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Flying Crank Ghost Motor Help

14K views 28 replies 12 participants last post by  montclairguy  
#1 ·
Hey all need some expert help here
I am thinking of using 1 of 2 motors this
https://www.allelectronics.com/index.php?&page=item&id=DCM-249&index=1

Or a reindeer motor which i already have

The questions I have
1 Is the wiper motor too high rpm
2 How to mod the reindeer motor
3 Does the reindeer motor have enough torque

I have seen on the web some people say they have used the reindeer motor but no how tos

Any help would be appreciated
 
#3 ·
I used a reindeer motor for my FCG last year. I do a vertical setup with my motor and crank instead of the typical horizontal set up over the ghost. Doing it vertically allowed me to hide the motor and crank behind the ghost. It worked most of the night but then the load got to be too much and it started just doing a half revolution and then would reset and go the other way. I am going to use a rotisserie motor this year though. I have never used windshield motors so I can't comment on that. Good luck though, this is a fun project.
 
#5 ·
#6 ·
If you use a rotisserie motor be sure to check how many RPMs it is before you buy it. I bought one several years back and it turned out to be only about 2 rpm. It didn't say on the box how fast it was. It was too slow to use for anything and I ended up finally just throwing it away to get it out of my way.
 
#12 ·
hate to tell you all , but first , here is a link to where that motor is CHEAPER , and it will NOT work for a FCG ... not enough torque . Yes , for its size , it DOES have some torque to it ... but NOT enough for a FCG . ( maybe a mini FCG - LOL )
For those interested , these little motors ARE well worth the monies , for some small apps needing some good torque , but ... the part about the 20 milliamps, is for NO load .. and believe me , thie little bad boy CAN suck up the amperage once applied under a load .
The shaft is made of a pliable plastic , which means it WILL and DOES stretch . When I used JUST a piece of square stock (AKA- key way ) when placed under load , it stressed the plastic enough to let the grooves/notches get over-ridden and almost made the inside of the shaft useless . Since I ordered a"few" of these , I simply went and took another motor and worked with it . This time , I used some JB weld on the key stock and THEN stuck it into the motor shaft and its worked pretty good now . Tested it overnight under load and no streching of the plastic/nylon shaft . :)
I ended up using mine for tombstone head-poppers using those styro wig heads with maskes on them . Works great !
But .. its DEFINATELY well worth the $3.00 for it .
Heres a link for those interested :
Burden Sales Surplus Center Item Detail
 
#15 ·
I bought a FCG assembly off of ebay last year, it uses a reindeer motor and worked very well all night long, just the right speed and very quiet. the key is they used pulleys at the suspension points, so it works very smoothly with minimum drag, and a counter balance. So when it was balanced properly and with the pulleys it took very little effort to make it work. In addition the motor is water proof and comes with a pig tail extra plug which worked great for the black light. The ghost was the standard styrofoam wig head, foam hands and cheese cloth,
 
#17 ·
Yes , those little enclosed motors they use on them rheindeer ARE excellent . Have LOTS of torque for such a little booger .
And ditto on the pics of the counter balance ( got the pulley setup just right , but , hey , if I can ease the pressure on the motor ... that would be great . )
I have it where the motor have a itty bitty little chain that came off one of those electric scooters and used the sprocket as well , then had it connect to a bicycle rim - 10 speed so I could vary the speed without reducing the torque of the motor by lowering the voltage or current ) The motor is on a drawer slide with a spring pullback for a tensioner , and the actual cabling ( which is some crab pot trap line that has minimal stretch and plenty of strength ) is where i believe it takes the pressure from the motor to get it going . I also use a double pulley setup there as well , the larger wheel ( again , bicycle rim with rubber liner ) and a small pulley that holds the line UP , so with any "bouncing" , it take the bounce out so the line stays on the main pulleys .
But , again , would LOVE to see a pic or two of the counter balance setup .

Thanks :)
 
#21 ·
Just, here are some pics of the pulley setup for the FCG, They basically use a sliding door wheel and some nylon guides. The counter balance is a seperate line that runs from the FCG head over the back two pulleys and then down you balance it by adding flat washers.
some of these pics are upside down showing the bottom side.
Image

Image

Image

Image
 
#25 ·
Your looking at the underside of the rig on each of the two arms is a pulley and on the leftside of the pic backside is another pulley in the center. if you flip it over topside the are eyebolts on the main body the two beams in the middle two on the leftside and two on the rightside of the pic.If this isn't clear I can post a drawing.
 
#27 ·
Thanks for all the pics guys. I have built several FCG rigs and have that part down to a science. I was REALLY interested in the use of a counterbalance, as I have seen it mentioned several times and understand it helps quite a bit. I really wanted to see a picture of a FCG rig with the counterbalance in use.

Scare, thanks for the pics. That is a really interesting rig you have. I appreciate the explanation regarding the counterbalance. It helped quite a bit. I would still like to find some pics of the counterbalance in use, on a traditional FCG rig like the Phantasmechanics, since this is what most of us use.
 
#28 ·
I used a mirror ball motor. Bought online. I built a wood frame and thanks to Spooky Blue I got it working great. Had to do a counter weight which means 4 holes instead of three and had to use set offs so line did not get tangled. Had to place motor center of all the set offs so mine looks like a cross instead of a t frame. Hope this helps someone.
 
#29 ·
Yeah, I've done mine that way too. The mirror ball motor loses torque after a few Halloweens of operation. Mine's gotten so bad that my counterweight is almost exactly the same weight as the marionette, making the head kinda just sit there. I changed it out this year for another mirror ball motor (I bought quite a few several years ago), but I'd really like to transition to something with a lot more torque.