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Adhering WHITE Styrofoam Sheets/Boards Together Using the "Landlord Special"

358 views 19 replies 3 participants last post by  Crunch  
#1 ·
PHOTOS ATTACHED AT BOTTOM OF ORIGINAL POST


It's that time of year again when I come cruising back through the forum looking for new ideas, inspirations and techniques. And I found just that. This year I'm wanting to do some store bought tombstone modifications, among other things as always, with simple "thickening" of them. Installing conduit stake tubes and painting/sealing them in the same colour scheme.

With that I came across the thread: Need advice on XPS Foam... . In there I found exactly what I come looking for, a new technique. The classic ways of Great Stuff spray foam, Gorilla Glue, and PL300 were mentioned right away, but the new technique also came up; Glidden Gripper bonding primer paint or the current Valspar Bonding primer.

Now this was speaking to XPS foam, pink and blue specifically. Considering it's price in my parts, triple that of the white beaded stuff AND the fact that the store bought stones are made out of the white beaded stuff that's what I'll be using to make the stones at least twice if not triple thick for more realism and allow some proper stakes. Unfortunately nobody had tried it with white beaded styrofoam, then it dawned on me I've got enough scraps to run my own tests. That in combination with lots of free cheap/free paint I have collected from the past couple years, I dug those out and into the garage for some scraps.

It was then I discovered one of my cans was a water based stain, which I had used for my two auxiliary columns as a base coat, as well as the two original columns I had from YEARS before. And while that worked for colouring and sealing the corrugated plastic, poster board and white beaded styrofoam cobblestones giving it a nice base coat stone colour, I wasn't confident it was the right type of stuff to use in this new way. It was a $9 can of mis-tint from Home Depot, and it won't go to waste. It'll likely be used to cover the modified stones or other projects (a fifth "spacer" column per-se). Thankfully the FREE can of paint that is mostly full, and was a full gallon, also a stone grey colour IS a "bonding paint/primer All-In-One"". After spending the rest of the night and the next day at work thinking about it I decided I could my own tests. My original thought was to run two tests;
1. just lay it on thick, both sides of foam, and stick 'em together. No toothpicks, skewers or anything extra, now keep in mind this is just scraps and testing, and then wrapped the snot out of it in masking tape, twice horizontally and once vertically to give it some "clamping" force and keep the pieces together.
2. lay on a thinner coat on both sides of the foam, sealing it in all the little holes and cracks, letting it dry, then repeat with another coat and then stick it together.
Knowing that its foam, porous, and kind of abosorbent was the reason I thought about the two different tests. If the first pieces just drank the paint and didn't leave enough to dry and stick to itself, then I knew I would have to do the second version of laying a thin "sealing"coat first.

The blocking bonding primer can I was using has a steel lid and when I tell you I fought with peeling that lid off the can in a way that had me using some choice words I ain't kidding ya. As with every paint can, there was paint around the lip and it was some kinda stuck on there. Scared of slipping and cutting myself open again, it took some effort to pry the lid off. So much so it had a nice banana curve to it. This gave me some confidence its got some adhesion power, at least to itself. Foam was still a little shakey. Finally peeled the lid off and mixed it as much as I cared to. It's only gonna be used as a"glue" so it didn't need to be mixed for colour, though making sure it was well mixed to not be seperated was just as important. It was thick and sludgey, but I got it to a point of spreadable with a decent colour and consistency. With a dollar store craft paint brush that has hairs thicker than mine, I laid out my pieces of white foam and did exactly as described. Laid it on thick like a slumlord landlord on two pieces, stuck 'em together. Then a thinner coat on the other two pieces.

Both were going to need some time to dry, and after two discoveries at this point, I let them do their thing. First discovery was that can lid. Steel lid, I don't want to misshape it further than I already have causing a bad seal on the can until I'm ready to open it again for more use. Second discovery came the day after, at least a full 24hrs post painting. I couldn't help myself but to peel the tape off the first two test pieces and give them a pry.

Given I used two relatively small pieces of foam to start with, not much bigger than my palm, I didn't leave myself a whole lot to hang onto. I'm also reminding myself it's just going to be for added thickness so their not gonna need to withstand getting tossed around too much, they are foam after all. Not gonna be playing football with them or anything stupid, right. BUT what I found out pleased me. The pieces were firmly stuck together, and while they could probably be pulled together if you really tried I have a feeling it's not gonna be the paint that lets go but rather the foam breaking and chunking apart due to its beaded structure. The gaps between the pieces were minimal, and while there was some squeeze out of paint, I'm fine with that. It tells me there's good coverage and its the right colour for stone work anyway.

The second test pieces haven't got their second wet coat and attempted to be stuck together yet, mostly for the reason mentioned above. That lid was a fight. And if I don't need to extend the waiting time while using MORE paint, why would I? It's not and endless supply, but I do think most of this gallon will spread pretty far though, I'm not really wanting to spend more budget on a fresh can to apply it to Halloween. The only thing I have left to do is to cut through the center of it and check it's adhesion in the middle while vaguely testing its ability to remain workable/carveable. The only thing I could see being an issue is the squeeze out and sandpaper gunking up. I'm sure this could be alleviated being more careful in coverage around the edges or wiping/cleaning it up before it dries.

Best part of it was figuring out that I don't need to use a brand new store bought can, but instead use a FREE can that only ran me the cost of my signature on a piece of paper a local recycling center. I was there returning pop and beer cans anyway. And while the recycling center slapped their big orange warning sticker, the original owners poured the paint over the English side, I could see enough of the label to see it was "blocking primer all-in-one" and figured what's the hurt? I figured the short hand on the top label meant "paint-primer" so it was good enough for me to give it a go. Below are some photos I have of what primer I used, the test pieces of styrofoam and other bits. I'll also see If I can get the video attached in here somehow way.






The first two test pieces showing all around the edge and gaps if any. Being white beaded styrofoam it's diffcult to get it fully contacted based on its beaded structure.





The two test pieces with only a thin sealing coat. One to show coverage and the second to show how much it absorbed into the foam itself. Again, they have not been re-coated and stuck together while taped/weighted/clamped






TL;DR: All-In-One Paint-Primer worked to adhere two pieces of WHITE foam board together. Well enough for me and my application in this instance.
 
#2 ·
Recording with one hand and "prying" with the other. While it's not an incredibly scientific test, the pieces didn't fall apart, budge, or move enough to be concerning. For what I'm thinking I'm gonna use it for, it'll be good enough for me.
 
#4 ·
I took the adhered pieces to a bandsaw, the same way I've made my basic shapes, to test the adhesion through the middle.

While they didn't fall apart, you can definitely see where the paint soaked in between the beads and through the cracks. It wasn't deep, but also gives some evidential weight to the second of my two thought of tests. Remaining stuck together, but could tell they lost some integrity in the adhesion there. The pieces were easier to begin to separate, I did not end up separating the pieces. I think it would take more force than the tombstones are gonna face bringing them in and out of storage.

Studying the mis-tinted can, the water based sealer, and last years photos, it says its an enamel. If I remember it seemed to finish like an enamel or a latex. With a plastic lid, there's still time to test it as well. But the can is pretty light from putting it through the electric sprayer, and a novice user.

My tombstones are unlikely to be cut in half the way that they are. And even if so in the future I decide to do a cracked or broken type stone, they're gonna get finished and coating with an exterior finish of some sort anyway. Its gonna fill those gaps and sink into the cut/break and have a proper finish. I highly doubt the adhesion through the middle AFTER a cut will be an issue. Burn the bridge when I get to that one.

I'm even more curious to run the second parameters test. The one with the thing sealer coat to see if that would help or even make it necessary :unsure:
 
#5 ·
It sounds like your second method test would indeed provide better adhesion but given your application I'm not sure that it's a necessary step. Granted, this is all theory on my part as I've yet to try it myself.

Speaking of which, I think I'm going the bonding primer route for my XPS project as I've got a lot of surface area to cover and it doesn't absorb paint the same way EPS does. Leftovers from home renos are always handy for a haunter. ;)
 
#7 ·
It sounds like your second method test would indeed provide better adhesion but given your application I'm not sure that it's a necessary step. Granted, this is all theory on my part as I've yet to try it myself.

Speaking of which, I think I'm going the bonding primer route for my XPS project as I've got a lot of surface area to cover and it doesn't absorb paint the same way EPS does. Leftovers from home renos are always handy for a haunter. ;)
I think the second test idea would provide better overall adhesion as well. The crosscuts I made on the original two pieces show absorption, and I think a second adhering coat would do it a benefit.

XPS is much easier to work with, being an X-truded Poly Styrene and lacking the space to fill in and absorptive properties. I would definitely prefer to use pink or blue... but when white is 66-75% cheaper and sometimes free, its hard to pass up. I'd be curious to see how your projects turn out.
 
#8 ·
Thats the value of this forum (or any forum for that matter). Community and willingness to share. It was pure luck with a sprinkle of curiosity I stumbled across this idea. And why I keep coming back, 15+ years later. Things change, new people with new ideas get involved, and ideas sprout and are shared. I'm more than happy to talk prop builds, ideas, techniques, findings, tests, materials and everything involved.

I find myself going off on huge tangents with people at work and at family gatherings... other peoples interest is lost fast, but I know I can go to town on here.

Let us know what you come up with in your projects!
 
#9 ·
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The idea has been put into full tilt action. Three pieces of 1" EPS white beaded styrofoam are currently in drying stage with various free weights and weight plates on them in hopes of making good contact all around.

A couple things worth noting;
1. I ended up using the second test method where I painted each stone side with one coat and let it dry in the sun while I did the rest before giving them a second much heavier coat. This wasn't tested on a small scale but given the adhesion strength of a single coat on the small scale test, and a good gut feeling that paint on paint would prove stronger/better, thats what I went with
2. I used a few toothpicks between layers with an attempt in coating them with some Gorilla Glue first before stabbing them pretty much flush to the current face up surface at a fairly steep angle to help keep them held while the paint fully dries considering it was a fairly thick second coat

The paint I was using combined with a dollar store foam roller, the oddly hot and bright sun for the time of year, thin coat dried very quick while I was working on the other pieces. This was a benefit in the way that when I was done with the second set, I could go back and start laying on the thicker second coat to the first set. It was a mess, but that comes with the painting territory, I'll take it over spray can expanding foam. And again for the price, free, I'm willing to give it a try. If it falls apart, I've got a tube of PL300 foam board caulk and a fresh bottle of Gorilla Glue on standby.

Some photos of the progress before I got carried away and the day along with me. Before I knew it was time to shut it down for the evening. I'll be checking them second or third thing in the morning, after a fresh cup of coffee at the very least.

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#10 ·
Things are looking good! I'm curious to see how this second method works out, especially since I probably would have done the same. The experimentation we get to do with halloween projects can be both fun and rewarding in their own right.

Also, a good coffee can make all the difference. By now I'm pretty sure it makes up about 30% of my blood by volume.
 
#12 ·
Things are looking good! I'm curious to see how this second method works out, especially since I probably would have done the same. The experimentation we get to do with halloween projects can be both fun and rewarding in their own right.

Also, a good coffee can make all the difference. By now I'm pretty sure it makes up about 30% of my blood by volume.
As always I wish I got more progress pics as of the process... but I'm forever in a rush to get things done and move on to either the next step or the next project. And this year is no different. At the moment I can count three different things I've got on the go and not much more than a month to get it all together. And that's for the night of. All of this stuff needs to get set up first, and with September coming to an end quickly, my staging pieces need to get on the front burner sooner than later. Including the spacing/support column.

Halloween experimentation is my favourire experimentation. And like I see Daphne saying with the paint perils.. sometimes ya just don't know until ya know. We all have different accessibility to different materials and mediums. Jekyll saying he couldn't speak for anything else cause he just went tried and true. That awoke my wannabe Mythbuster as I was typing up my questions in your thread there. "Whats really stopping me from giving it a try? Whats the worst, it doesn't work and do what you were gonna do anyway?"

And I think for me the big draw is the fact its for Halloween. The event itself happens at night, in the dark. And unless there's an extremely enthusiastic parent, the kids are just gonna see the stuff and charge straight for the door, collect their candy, get back in the vehicle and look for the next lit up neighbourhood/single house. (Its not like the days of old I'd see in the movies, TV shows, or even when I was a youngian. Families, kids, groups and friends running all over the streets. Bouncing from house to house collecting as much as they could from different areas to compare.) So nobody is gonna be studying it from any closer than 5-6ft away. Its not going in a show home to be a part of a photoshoot for a magazine. Its for Halloween. The more haggard it looks, the more it helps sell its age and wear rather than freshly built by a laser precise machine. And thats what I like about it. I am in no way precise with my measurements, wood cutting, saw use, paints or anything else. Nor does it have to be. Its almost better if it isn't, at least in my books. Maybe thats just cope because I'mma terrible craftsman hahahaha.

Anywho, on to that coffee and checking things out. At least one coffee day at is required to keep the cobwebs shook off and functioning at a reasonable human level. More updates as they come
 
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#11 ·
Something that may not have bit anyone else but it did me. I redid all my tombstones a couple years ago and per normal, things got crazy at the end so I was putting them out in the blazing sun to dry to expedite the process. It wasn't obvious immediately but after I got them up, the paint bubbled up in multiple spots and we aren't talking Bob Ross happy little accident bubbles. The bubbles didn't stick up really high, but were the size of half dollars. Weirdly, it was the worst on the most intricate tombstones I had the most work in. It wasn't over the detail work, it was over the flat smooth sections. In the dark, or frankly in the light, no one pays attention to stuff like that but I knew it was there and it drove my crazy.
 
#13 ·
I know this kind of thing can happen with concrete and resin/epoxy work. Cracks, bubbles, and deformities. Do you have any thoughts on why this happened? Too much paint at once? Expeditited drying/curing process causing issues? Or did you find a solid answer?
I can totally understand being the only one that knows about it while it still drives ya nuts on the inside.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Coffee consumed. Anticipation killing me.
It hasn't been a full 24hrs since the adhesion project has been put aside for drying, but my impatience won again this time, and for now it'll have to be satisfied with this. Just some quick progress photos while I wait. You can see the three layers stacked together and some close ups of the Gorilla Glue toothpicks. Most of the glue got wiped off with insertion, but hoping some got inside with the toothpick as well. It also shows how Gorilla Glue finishes. It expands as it cures with moisture (after using the depth plate on my circular saw to half haggardly cut some channels for conduit to glue inside for stakes, I used the garden hose to spray off the styrofoam dust and cut offs. The best idea? Maybe not with expanded foam... but it was hot, messy, and the volume of water helped get rid of it.) and may help explain why its a common adhesive for foam. Its an expanding foam, but in a hand size bottle that allows more precise application. Resealable and reusable.

I'll give it a few more hours in the air and outside temperatures as the sun comes up and really gets on it. Hopefully it can acclimate with the temperature as it rises and get a more even cure/dry before I go about handling them any further.
I'm thinking regardless if this works or not, I'm gonna go to town with the Gorilla Glue for the "face stones" which would be the store bought ones. I'd rather have those well knowingly stuck to the auxiliary foam with a known adhesive than further experimental adhering ideas. That is unless I am absolutely blown away with these 3" "glue ups". The idea would likely be similar with the toothpicks, but this time I'll probably sink them in straight as possible and only about half way, with Gorilla Glue. Let that cure up real nice and use the other half sticking up to stab into the face stone with more Gorilla Glue.

One final curiosity I have would be if it could be easier to take the drywall rasp/material shaver to the edges now to get the 3" panels roughly to the same shape (as their all individually cut with a bandsaw [which is handier than anything to cut this stuff. Makes a wicked mess, but thats styrofoam work. And wildly faster than any other method I've used] and very very roughly follow an even rougher traced outline of the face stones) before gluing the face stone to them? Or should I just continue on gluing thicknesses together and shape them finally when their all stuck together as a final piece?
I know full well I'm not gonna perfectly replicate the face stones shape, but like I said before its gonna be for Halloween night, and I'm kinda really counting on my final paint/hard coat to cover up/seal up any wildly obvious seams and gaps. Fingers crossed.

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#15 ·
I agree with your point about it being halloween night and that working in our favour. It's a point my wife constantly reminds me of. While I know that my results will often past muster, I know where my mistakes are and they are what often draw my attention. The kids and parents, however, are always pleased with the results. Darkness is a great equalizer.

The toothpicks can be a great way to help secure the final "topper". I've not seen such expansion from Gorilla Glue before (though my experience with it is limited) so this is good to know. Thanks for that. As for the trimming of the bulk layers my inclination is to trim it once it's all attached. For me, that would give the best results. The draw back is that I'd also be terrified of messing up the top layer. But hey, chipped/cracked/weathered tombstones are just more "natural" anyways.
 
#16 ·
....The draw back is that I'd also be terrified of messing up the top layer. But hey, chipped/cracked/weathered tombstones are just more "natural" anyways.
We think alike in that way and kinda why I've been thinking about it. I had exactly the same thought process. While it would be easier to uniform them all to the top layer face stone once adhered together as a unit, I'm afraid of doing it damage. As you said, on the flip, it may help age it further. And everything will get a fresh coat of same colour paint anyway, so it would fall into the depths of "lacking close up inspection". Though I understand the knowing it's there being bothersome.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Pretty sure its been a full 24hrs since the stones have been coated and laid to dry with weights on them. I used my time this afternoon working on a different styrofoam project that might get its own thread as well, thought its not different to any of my others. Still, it could be handy. Back to the topic at hand.

The landlord special in full scale has WORKED for me so far. Maybe even too well. The weights ended up trading some paint in some small areas, or even bringing some styrofoam with it. As feared with its beaded structure. Though not a big deal, and could be partially due to my impatience, its pretty confident building that this is a viable option for this application.
Some photos of the pieces put together and another quick short video showing me handling them again. Gaps are minimal if any and will easily cover with final coats of paint and textures.

You can see in some spots where the weights were stuck and pulled up the paint and others it brought foam with it. As well as some minor imprinting. The imprinting could be easily solved using another board or something else across the top to spread the weight more evenly and keep the individual weights from pressing. While the trading of paint and removal of foam can be avoided simply by giving this face up coat a bit longer to dry before pressing the weight on and perhaps squeezing some half dry paint back out to the surface. Or allowing it to not be tacky anymore, as I'm pretty sure they weren't 20-30 minutes dry yet before I put the weights on.


3x1" EPS stuck together with paint
 
#20 ·
And that's exactly it. I'd use it in this application where there's LOTS of surface area for adhesion. Not so much for projects like my cobblestone columns for example. But here, I'm happy with it, more than happy even. Mis-tinted paints are a good way to score some outdoor sealers and colours. I managed to get most of a gallon for $9 a couple years back. And while it was water based stain, it worked for giving colour. Other options I've heard about are of course local classifieds or Re-Store type outlets. Places that take well usable home renovation materials and the like. The paint I used here happened to be absolutely free from a recycling depot that takes our drink containers like pop cans and water bottles. They have a small shelf of leftover and dropped off paints and stains of all kinds if a guy can be there at the right time. And those are absolutely free, just leave a John Hancock on a sign off sheet and leave happily. I'm always on the lookout when I go there, including this weekend. Being wary to make sure their outdoor rated as I'll be using them for Halloween, always.

In hindsight, being that its always 20/20, a better idea may have been to adhere the sheets together as a bonded piece before cutting them to shape to match the store bought stone. Might save a guy a little work in the post paint glue up stage. I think of this only now as I lay on the couch in the Sunday evening watching the sun set and time has ran out for now. Also not much I can do about it now other than push forward as originally intended just something I figured I should mention.

Now that I have this technique figured out for myself, more ideas for more stones are coming to mind. Including a homemade version of mini pillars I'm seeing in seasonal stores as part of bundled packs. Or creating more full size custom stones using multiple layers to add thickness.