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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone,

I know I'm late to the game with the whole trash can trauma, but I'm having a hard time coming up with a specific parts list. I've searched here and seen the 5-7 popular sites explaining their particular TCT setups, but I haven't been able to come up with a solid parts list.

I understand the concept, but I'm not that fluent with air compressor parts yet... solenoids and valves, etc.

I know the obvious trash can, and minimum 3 gal. air compressor at about 25-35psi, but I don't know what kind of solenoid, or if I should do a bike pump or a piston-thing. As you can see, I need some help :)

I'm not looking to buy a $300 kit - I'd rather piece it together for as cheap as possible. I know this is about a $35-50 prop all told.

Does anyone have a specific list like this - or better yet, can post some links so I can start buying the pieces needed?

Thanks! :)
 

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A real good place to start is a through read of this, it is a very good guide and easy to understand. http://www.halloweenforum.com/tutorials-step-step/77731-beginners-guide-props-pneumatics.html I would not use anything other than a real air cylinder, no pvc or bike pumps, door closers etc... Those are an accident waiting to happen.The parts are pretty straight forward ,an air cylinder - either a double acting ,which needs air to extend and retract, or a single acting, which has a spring built in to retract. A solenoid- 4 port 4 way for the double or a 3 port 3 way for the single. A way to trigger all of this . A means to anchor and install this in the trash can. The pneumatic parts can probably be bought on e-bay. The frame work will have to be built if you want to keep cost down. Hope this gives you a little insight . The cylinder is going to be dependant on the height and how far you want it to extend .
 

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Hi, here's a good starter kit.
http://www.frightprops.com/pneumati...linder-hook-up-starter-kit-double-acting.html

Basic needs:
1. Cylinder
2. solenoid
3. trigger

and a lot of small parts to make it all work together

Trigger:
You can use a motion detector from any home store to trigger the solenoid.
If you get a 110 Volt solenoid. It will plug right into a motion detecting security lights socket (use one of those screw in adapters that make a plug end), then put a plug on the solenoid wires. Wire a power supply to the security light,
plug in solenoid.
Put sec. light on test mode, and you have simple prop timer.
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Great! I must have missed the videos on fright props, they are very helpful in explaining things. Sometimes all it takes is someone to actually show you something to grasp it, rather than reading.

Looks like I will get one of those kits, since they're within my budget. Now I just need to figure out stroke size. What are a common stoke sizes when it comes to trash can traumas? 12"?
 

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12" Stroke, 1" bore would be adequate. It just depends how far you want the lid to open.


You will need speed controls for in and out ports on the cylinder also. If you go straight air pressure to the cylinder from solenoid, it will be too violent and uncontrollable.

WARNING
Air has a lot of power, respect the air pressure! You could cause serious injury if not careful. I was leaning over mine and I accidentally activated the solenoid. Almost poked my eye out! Same with the electrical.
These are industrial type components and need to be treated with respect.

E-mail Doug at Frightprops and tell him you are making a TCT. He will help get you all the right parts.
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Understood about the respect... I built my own 15,000 volt High Voltage Climbing Arc (Jacobs Ladder)... now THAT requires respect! :)

Looks like the cylinders at fright props have circular shafts which would mean the prop could rotate while it is extending. Any way to combat that so that it stays pointing the right direction time after time?
 

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Jacobs ladder, cool!

You can rig a guide system or ask for non rotating, which are more expensive and take longer to order sometimes. It would be the best for this application though.

Mine has a guide made from a small rod running from lid througn eyes fastened to a support. This keeps everything lined up. It does twist a little with the torque though.
Pete
 

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Thats where the fun comes in! You will have to fab up some parts on your own. I think everyone takes a little different approach. The end of the piston is threaded.
You will need a linkage of some sort. You can buy the parts specifically made for cylinders to connect to . Look on Fright props site. They show the clevises, etc. Grainger has all these parts also.
I may have a video of my build I will send a link when I find it.
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Since I sent that post, I started searching around a little more, and this one prop used plumbing flanges. That isn't such a bad idea... http://sites.google.com/site/spookythings/trash-can-trauma-I


So far, here's what I have in my fright props cart.

1) Their single acting starter kit
2) A 1-1/8" bore double acting cylinder. I still don't know if I should go with 12" or 16" stroke?
3) A couple of brackets to mount it
4) Speed control muffler

My thoughts are because I am looking to buy a 3 or 4gal ac tank that I will need to "conserve" on air. So I will use the air to push the cylinder upwards, then let the weight of the trash can lid & mask push it back down. I may end up adding a 5lb weight to it depending on if it's needed or not.
 

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Plumbing parts are always handy for these builds. I would not go longer than 12" . Really the scare is the first couple inches anyway. If you want a head to clear . Measure the height of the mask/head. Thats all you need.
Mine is like 10" stroke and its fine.
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Since I don't own a compressor, I am looking to go as inexpensive as possible. Looks like the 4 gallon tanks are affordable, but I am noticing a price difference between the oilless and the ones with different CFM.

On average, do you know what kind of specs I need to look for with a prop like this? Like 2.5CFM at 90PSI... is that good for this?
 

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Someone else will need to chime in on this. I run my air at 40-60 psi depending on the prop.
The solenoids need at least 40psi . 90psi is pretty high.

There is probably a formula for the CFM required of the cylinder..
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well, not THAT inexpensive. I'm planning on having the prop near the street, so manually resetting it could become cumbersome. So I'd like to stick with air. I just don't know what to get for a starter air compressor. Home Depot has a 4 gallon Husky stacked ac for about $150. Just not sure if that'll be enough?
 
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