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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, I been trying to find my bookmark for the thread on this, maybe someone has it or can help ......

I have two new solenoids valves that I have not used before. It is from an Industrial supply company and the power part of it does not have any wires sticking out of it. It has a black box and a tube of some sorts. When I unscrew that, there is a small circuit board in it with three screws. That part then goes onto the prongs(like a normal power plug). So I need to attach wires to it. But I don't know where.

Would I go to the small screw or the soldered part on a mini board, or skip that whole thing and soldier to the prongs?

It is an Airtac model 4v210-08. I will try to get some pictures up.

Hope someone can help, I have two I need to hookup to the PicoBoo soon.....


cbhaunt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey CDW, thx that is the same valve and issue I am trying to figure out. Thankyou.

But I am still confused. He mentions the three prongs and also screws. Not sure if he attached wires to the prongs or the screws in the L shapped plastic covering. Not even sure if he kept the covering off and just used the straight prongs to wallwart.

Any other assistance?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So the screws in the L shaped part, okay will see if a wire can fit in.
So lost!
Mine is a
Airtac 4v210-08
Pressure: 21-114psi.
The electric part says:
AC110V 3.5VA
Voltage range:
AC93.5V - 126.5V
50/60Hz
100%ED
IP65

don't see anywhere about 12vdc
 

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It appears that the two screws side-by-side are the power inputs, and the one on the other side is the ground. They should be marked "1", "2", and with a ground symbol, respectively (possibly on the underside of the plug); the hot wire should be screwed into "1", the neutral into "2", and the ground into ground. How comfortable are you working with 110V?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
yes correct!
When I look on the bottom there is a 1 and a 2.
The 2 is the screw that ontop says LED+ and the other one says R

How comfortable? Dunno, but willing to try anything ... two years waited to use the pneumatic lungers and have a few of these solenoids to wire up for the picoboo's.

what do you suggest?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
okay, so no bare metal, hope can keep that proper.

PicoBoo 104.

Travis at FrightIdeas said I could wire solenoids right to the Picoboo's so that's what we are hoping to do. Two solenoids, each to a double activing zombie arm, attached to the PicoBoo 104 .
 

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Hmm - this would be easier if you had the PicoBoo with the electrical sockets on it, but it should be doable for you. Your PicoBoo has two relays, each with Common (C), Normally Open (NO), and Normally Closed (NC) contacts. I'm going to assume you're driving two solenoids separately off of these two relays. The easiest way to do this would be to buy a long extension cord, cut off the socket, then cut two lengths that will meet the distance between your PicoBoo and where you want the solenoids to go. You would then take the remaining part with the plug, find the hot, neutral and ground wires, attach the hot wire to the Common pin on both PicoBoo relays (you'll have to get a length of single wire from your cord to jumper the two common inputs on the PicoBoo), and attach the neutral and ground wires to the neutral and ground wires of the two lengths of wire you cut earlier. Then attach the hot wires of the cut lengths to the respective Normally Open pins on the PicoBoo relays. Then attach the wires on the other ends of the cut lengths to your solenoids, hot to "1", neutral to "2", and ground to ground. You can use regular household wiring nuts to connect the wires to each other, but you might want to consider tying the wires together a bit back from the join in order to relieve any tension on the nuts. If you can find a friend locally who has some experience doing household wiring, this will go easier and faster, but you can definitely learn it yourself. You'll need to buy a wire stripper and the wire nuts, if you don't already have them. Hot wires are generally black, neutral white, and ground green. Once everything's wired together, you should be able to plug in the extension cord plug, turn on your PicoBoo, and control the valves.

In the future, it would probably be easier and safer to buy the 12V DC valves, but this should work with the 110's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hi thx for the instructions. Will begin after this post.

I have cut extension cord for the other picoboos so I know I can do that. I have also put outlets into my workroom with a new fuse/circuit breaker. So I think I should beable to do this!

But still have a question. I put wires to 1 and neutral to 2 .... on the solenoid. But where do I attach that? to those small little screws? If so, how would I attach it? soldier? wrapt it around? What do you suggest.

As you think, I will begin your instructions ......
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
AHHH!

Is this correct?

to attach to the Solenoid, the little screws come out a bit, revealing a hole. I can put the wire in the hole and tighten the screw as far as it can go.
Would that be the proper way?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
UPDATE

Well got the wires in nuts and in the picoboo.
Also put one cord thru the L shaped opening on solenoid and unscrewed the little screws, shoved appropriate coloured wire in its hole and tightened the screw.

Here are two pics of it .... might be hard to see, not sure.



and the solenoid screws, this only shows the white and black. It is a bit hard to see it as there is other stuff in the pic, but I tried to keep it infront of the cylinder to show easier.




So one more solenoid to go and may redo some of the wires to make it longer, not sure yet. Thought it all would fit like this in the zombies chest/back but don't think so. Will find out more when I do test run.

Hows it look so far? Following instructions, I believe .....
 

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I can't really tell from the pictures how it's wired up, but from what I can see it looks promising - my only concerns are:

1) You should trim the wires at the PicoBoo and the solenoid so there's not so much bare copper exposed - you want the bare wire to be exactly as long as the terminal block socket, so that the insulation is butting up against the terminal block as much as possible while maintaining a good connection; and

2) If you're putting the controller inside the prop, make sure it's either an indoor prop or very well-waterproofed, and that it's not located in a moving part, because the cylinder motion could easily knock something loose, causing an electrical hazard.

Good luck!
 
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