Gonna love them....Mine are allergic to oxygen, so I can't change out the food. I don't think it would matter. I removed most of the carpeting and put in a wood floor which, coincidently, caused the barfers to barf exclusively in the basement and unfortunately, on my props. There's some cat rule they have to follow, they are restricted from barfing on wooden floors....Must be a union thing...Go figure..
ohgaaawwwwddddd....they have unions now!??! We're screwed. Defnitely screwed.
To keep this on topic though, I STILL haven't gotten into my craft room so I've moved my cart with paint to the LR to do some Easter stuff & I'm doing some paper mache stuff in the kitchen. But that's where I've always done it. It's close to the water & easier to clean up.
Oh gawd its almost Easter...I feel like I'm still waiting for this movie to start.....Sigh.....I don't have a craft room. When I feel crafty I use the kitchen. I usually use that until the completion of the project or until my wounds heal. My wife is quick to let me know when its time to stop crafting.....
I've been spending some time working on my pirate porch for 2020. The skeleton was supposed to be a groom, but he looks piratey enough for me. The lantern came from clearance at AC Moore. I wired it up using leftover parts from Christmas houses and added an LED flame bulb. For the plaques, I ordered some wood grain card stock for my laser printer. They are mounted on scrap wood using ModPodge. I cut the wood to size, then sanded and painted the edges black. The ship's wheel came from online, but it was less expensive than the cardboard photographer's prop used on cruise lines. I almost bought one before I realized that they are two dimensional. They look good in photos, but not so much close up. The base is made from OSB I had laying around, and held together with screws. It's powered by a reindeer motor, which I also had. The finish is wood grain shelf paper. It is not trimmed out yet, but as long as I was testing my progress, I thought I'd share. Some key points: Determine how high the wheel needs to be based upon the skeleton or dummy you will use to "steer". Make sure your captain has arms flexible enough so as to not interfere with the steering. My first choice was way too stiff! Clearances are critical! The motor is connected to the wheel by a plastic arm. The wheel needs to travel freely over, past, or short of the motor, depending how you set it up. There needs to be sufficient clearance for the arm to complete a cycle without hitting anything. If you box in the sides, as I did, make sure you allow clearance for the wheel to freely move. Luckily, I thought of all this before I finished assembly. Still, I did trim a little extra off during dry fit because it seemed just a little too close. I cut a hole in the back side to fish the electric cables through, allowing the motor to site relatively flat. There is a short pigtail female plug that I will use to power an up-shooting can light to illuminate the prop. The configuration of your motor, if you wish animation, may be slightly different than mine, so take some time to double check the alignment. I used temporary fasteners to run test cycles before Final assembly, and so should you. The length of arm you use will also impact design. It's probably about 80% done right now. I'll take some shots on Halloween to follow up. I'm currently engaged in discussions with the wife as to whether I'll do a split scene on the porch like usual (because we have center steps that allow for this) or have the pirates take over the whole thing.
My current goal is projects that I can accomplish with what is on hand or can be obtained through social distancing. I wanted a barrel for my pirate porch. Real wooden ones were over $100, so I opted for a plastic food service barrel. A little Simple Green and a couple of rinses and it was good to go. The barrel had ridges that looked like hoops, so I covered them over with broad masking tape, and used 1/4 tape to lay out vertical staves. I set them 3" apart. If I wanted to be spot on I would have measured the circumference, but I eyeballed it and 3" looked good. As it turns out, it was pretty close anyway. I lightly sanded and cleaned the surfaces, prior to painting, and used a good quality paint for plastics, 2 coats. I then overlayed that with a deeper brown using a woodgrain roller. I used too much paint, and didn't count on the barrel being so slippery. Next time, less paint, more pressure. I considered a redo- but when it dried I liked the current result. I think being too perfect would have ruined the effect, and in any event I've learned that lighting can fix almost anything, and this year nobody is probably going to get too close anyway.
With 3 kids under 10 at home, I don' t have the time (or the skill) to turn out masterpieces like some of you, but I hope that somebody can benefit from some of my projects.
I modified an octo-skeleton from At Home by removing the battery operated LED light that came with it, and replacing it with two clear 12V LEDs in the existing eye sockets, and a 110V C-7 purple LED in the base. I used a surplus Christmas village
house socket for the latter, and it fit perfectly in the hole for the original LED. I have lots of spare transformers for the 12 volters, and am busy wiring up full size skeletons in a similar fashion, except all red lighting. Lots to do!
Wow, many great crafts!
Last year was my first Halloween party at our new home, so I decided to do something "special" and build a fake fireplace to fit in between two shelves in our TV stand. I used foam board, cutting the base shape and hot glueing some pieces to simulate bricks. Finally I painted it using dark grey chalk paint. Here are some pics of the process! 😊
And one pic of the final setup, with some decorations and playing a fireplace video in the TV. Hope you liked it! 😄