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Discussion Starter #1
This is my first real attempt at a How-To. Since most of my end results are the products of some trial and error, and some pure luck, I don't feel right telling people that they should do things just like me. You may find a way that works better for you, so I see this as more of a creative nudge in the right direction for anyone wishing to build a similar prop.

I am always open to giving more details, if asked, since I think I leave out a lot of details because they may just be assumed knowledge to me...:rolleyes:

Anyway, here is the link to my Rising Nosferatu How-To.

And a rough video of it on Halloween night:
Nosferatu.flv video by NCchicka00 - Photobucket

Feel free to ask any questions.

-EEric
 

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You Rock... Thank you.
I really like when we can all share something fun.
I agree with Mr. Chicken that it did help me understand better how to do this kind of prop/effect.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No problem! When I talked about it on HauntForum last year I was told by a lot of people that using the cylinders to pull instead of push was a concept most hadn't thought of for whatever reason, as well as using bike cable actuators.

So yeah, that's what these forums are all about! Helping haunters expand their bag -O tricks!!! (or treats :D)

-EEric
 

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I hate this stupid net nanny here at work. I'll have to remember to check it out when I get home. That's fantastic, I may look to relocate my FCG for that Bad boy.
 

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eanderso13
I had an Idea you may or may not, think could work for you.
What if you made the coffin (with out the top) and add added a small fog chiller or ground fogger or even Dry Ice, so it would fill the coffin to the point of spilling over the edges and covering the Nosferatu figure, then as he rises up from the fog it would spill off him too.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
eanderso13
I had an Idea you may or may not, think could work for you.
What if you made the coffin (with out the top) and add added a small fog chiller or ground fogger or even Dry Ice, so it would fill the coffin to the point of spilling over the edges and covering the Nosferatu figure, then as he rises up from the fog it would spill off him too.
That is a GREAT idea!! I had intended to make sides for the coffin this year, just to hide the mechanism a little more, but adding fog or dry ice would be a sweet added effect!

Another interesting idea...the floor of the mausoleum is slatted...not solid. I did that just to make it a bit lighter and easy to carry but I could add a bunch of dry ice under the floor or pipe in fog that would sort of disguise the fact that the floor is not solid...hmm...

Thanks for the suggestion, Brad!

-EEric
 

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My honor I really like this place it is so much fun.

In my haunt I used an aluminum dryer hose in a "J" shape. With 3 frozen plastic water bottles (with Rock salt).
and a side note the Rock Salt water took 3 day to fully freeze. I had them on their side and I would turn them very 8 or so hours.



the fog would fill the crypt and then spill out the open slot in the back over the lighting effects


and then run down the yard to the street.

 

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Very good job on the prop and the how to. I am so glad i joined this forum, there are so so many talented people out there and i whole heartedly agree, it is so cool to share ideas with other haunters out there. I look at it like this...
every prop that is built and every idea that is shared just helps to keep this awesome holiday getting better and better.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Brrraaaaaaiiiiinnnss!!!

Ok, I sort of stopped being a slacker and am now here to add more details on the Nosferatu control. Here's a pic:

The thing on the right is my breakout box for the solenoids. the thing on the left is the PLC (Programmable Logic Controller). Basically what a PLC like this does is real a program that is set up like a Relay diagram, and switch outputs that are 'virtual" relays. You can get a lot of different types, like ones that run on AC, DC, have AC or DC input, AC or DC output or Relay outputs. And generally speaking, you can daisy chain multiple units together for huge control systems running off one program.

This one, in particular, takes 120v AC, has 8 12-24V DC inputs and 6 relay outputs that can take either AC or DC:

I ran a different prop off of this before which was triggered by a retroreflective sensor. The Nosferatu is a program that runs in a continuous loop and needs no input to start...just power.

In the picture above, the red wire is a jumper taking 120V AC from the power supply input to the common of the output relay contacts. When each relay output turns ON, 120v is provided to the corresponding brown wire (Y0, Y1 or Y2) which then turns on the solenoid plugged into the corresponding outlet in the breakout box.

I'll let that sink in and give you a chance to ask any questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ok, here's my ladder logic program:

How this works is we assume the vertical line to the left is "power" and the one to the right is the "load". To turn something on (get power to the load) we need the rung of the ladder program to be "True". This type of programming is a holdover form the days of using relays to control automated assembly line systems. Its full name is "Relay Ladder Logic".

Some of the elements in the program:


The "NC Switch" is "Normally Closed", "NO Switch" is "Normally Open"...I'll assume that everyone knows what that means for now. The "coil" refers to a virtual relay coil, within the system. Turning one of these ON will allow you to use that "ON" state to control other elements in the program.

So basically, on the D0-05, X represents a physical input on the PLC, and Y represents a physical output. These conventions will be different on different brands of PLCs. All other letter designations are "virtual"...or contained only in the software.

So for the first rung, that is saying "If there is no Input on X0, then the switch is closed". This makes the rung True, thereby turning ON the output coil C0. This rung puts the program into a continuous loop. It will always retrigger itself without any external input.

In rung 2 you start with a NO Switch, with the same name as the output coil from rung 1. This means that when the output coil C0 is active, then this switch is closed (or active, true, whatever you want to call it). C0 leads to a NC closed switch which is tied to an output coil called C7. What this does is de-energize the rung and reset the time (TMR) in rung 2 when C7 is turned ON (in rung 11).

I'll continue with the TMR dicussion in another post.
 
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