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Grave Rigger
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982 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
When I bought my caged skeleton, I wanted to hang him in the corner of my haunt so he would be behind the tots when it was activated. The problem was, the motion detector was located at the top of the prop. It was too high to be activated by anyone under 6' tall. I decided to lenghten the leads for the detector, so I could place them remotely and hidden.

I started by removing the cover of the cage. This is where all of the electonics are housed.


Here is the motion detector eye. They are usually pointed through a tube that makes the "beam" very focused.


I removed the screw holding the eye in, and removed it from it's cradle. I wasn't sure if it mattered which wire went to which lead, and both leads were green with no markings. I decided to replace one lead at a time to make sure I didn't cross anything up.


After I cut the first wire at the eye, I added a 4' length of wire between the orignal lead and the eye. I soldered the wire to the pole on the eye, and the other end to the original lead. Be careful with the heat at the eye. It is plastic and will melt very quickly. Only use a low temp iron, and never a soldering torch.


To solder the new and old leads together, I twisted the stripped ends, soldered them, and then covered them with electrical tape to prevent shorts. I could have used wire nuts instead, but props take a lot of abuse, and solder is a much stronger connection.


After repeating the process for the other side, I routed the wires out the top of the cage. This way I was able to hide the wires in the chains the cage hangs from. I put the prop back together making sure the new wires were routed in a way that they wouldn't get pinched.


The finished product worked very well. I hung the prop up high in the corner, and attached the eye to the door frame that the tots used. I put it high enough where very small tots would not trigger it, but all the bigger kids did. This whole project took less than 20 minutes, and the same process could be followed for any prop that is easily taken apart.
 

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Cool, I'll have to give this a try on some of my props. Thanks for the tut, and nice sized pics:D
 

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Grave Rigger
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982 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Partsman, Thanks. Not sure why my pics always come out so HUGE. Does come in handy for tutorials tough:D

Rookie, You still here?:D Yeah the sensor worked very well. It was almost useless inside the part. Way too focused. Once I pulled it out it worked much better, even with the only light coming from a strobe.
 

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Grave Rigger
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982 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Oh, good catch Terra! Sorry about that. :eek: I used 20ga., due to the extremely low voltage. I thing the factory was 18ga.

Can anyone recommend a good, reliable, but inexpensive matt switch, (I think that's waht you call them).
When you say matt switch, do you mean a pressure switch for sticking under a door mat?
 
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