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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I could really use help here, i have tried a reindeer motor (wouldn't budge) and a prop motor from winfield collection. It seems i need something with more power or torque. I made the lid as light as i could using 1/4 inch plywood. I see motors like vent motors and wiper motors, etc. Being used by others but i would have no idea how to wire those up. I would prefer it plugs in out of the box and works. Would like to spend no more than $75.
 

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I think the motor shown in the fright props link would work. The motor is $50. You would need a power supply. That would be about another $15 bucks. I don't think you need the prop controller shown in the link. You could hack a motion sensor flood light to power the coffin when someone walks by so it does not run continuously.
 

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Funeral Crasher
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Are you wanting the coffin lid to bounce up and down, like a monster-in-a-box? Or just open?

If you just want it to open, one option might be to spring load the lid already OPEN, then just find a motor strong enough to pull it back CLOSED.
Then as the motor rotates around, the spring would open it again.
 

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I may be wrong but if you go with a wiper motor and want the lid to go up and down slowly, you will need a speed controller to slow down the RPMs. You could rig up some gears to slow down the motion without a speed controller but that could be a bit involved. Monster guts does sell a speed controller. However, once you get the speed controller and the wiper motor, you might as well get the motor shown from Fright props. It is is a much slower RPM and would not need a speed controller. Just more food for thought.
 

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Hello,Looking for a bigger motor is not always the solution. One trick is to make the lid light enough and/or counterbalanced with a spring or weights. I have done this with a door spring on a coffin lid.
If the lid is heavy, consider making a foam lid glued on to plywood for weight savings.
To make a lid lifter: Attach a lever arm to the hinge side of the lid, attach a spring to the lever arm, and the other end to the base of coffin. Tension the spring so the lid is balanced, or neutral when closed.
Then a small amount of power applied by a motor or pneumatic is needed to lift.
The motor can be a 6 rpm gear motor (Dayton) from Grainger with a crank arm and wheel on the end of the crank arm that lifts the lide every revolution. (Like used on Flying Crank Ghost Prop)
if you want a banger lid, same idea, only you may not need as much tension on spring so the lid falls quicker.Variable RPM drill motors work good for this.
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
motor

Does your lid bang shut or open slowly and close slowly. The wiper motor you referred me to has a slow of 35 rpms and that seems a little fast.
Thanks to all that replied. Sounds like a lot of experienced haunters out there. hope I can return the favor someday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
reindeer motor

what linkage are you using to trying to lift it? you might make a reindeer motor work by changing the leverage.
I thought I saw a youtube video where someone used a reindeer motor but it would not move mine at all and mine was lighter than his. I think a lot of the problem is in the location of the motor and the attachment to the lid but, I struggle with the enginering part, Thanks for your help.
 

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Is the coffin laying sorta flat, or standing up? And how much of the lid are you trying to raise - the whole thing, like a full-length toe-pincher, or maybe just a half-lid?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Is the coffin laying sorta flat, or standing up? And how much of the lid are you trying to raise - the whole thing, like a full-length toe-pincher, or maybe just a half-lid?
I bought the motor kit from Monster Guts and it works great. Had trouble with the motor arm not staying locked in place so I had it welded on.
I found it hard to mount the motor so it would stay still and not move around with force. Still don't know if I would pay the $15 for the mounting plate from monster guts. THANKS FOR THE SUGGESTION.
 

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Self-crafted Halloweens
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As my grandfather used to say, "Use the right tool for the right job." If you need a slower, longer motion, or just need to lift a lot of weight, a linear actuator is what you need. They are about $30+ on ebay. Pick the motor that fits your needs.
 

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As others have mentioned a standard wiper motor will work fine. The high torque model from fright props linked above is too strong, I have one that I'm using on my Ezra HM ghost and it would be overkill for a lid.

You can control the speed of a standard wiper motor from Fright props or monster guts by the power supply. A 5w 5 amp power supply will give you ~6 rpm.

For a prop like a casket I like wiper motors when used outside because they are designed to be in wet locations. A/C motors like the Grainger motor (which I use on my FCG) are OK where it's dry but they don't like wet areas.

An assist for a heavy lid does help. My casket is made out of 1/2" plywood and very heavy. I originally had it hinged at the feet and put the motor near the head/hands in the HM "get me out of here" style. It was just too much to overcome. I ended up making a spring assist shock. Using 1 1/4" pvc, a 1" x6" spring I got from the hardware store with a 1" piece of PVC on top I was able to rig up a shock for $3. As noted above this took the stress off the motor and all it has do is force the lid down-the spring assists on the up stroke. After the top warped (lesson: plywood sucks for outdoor props) I attached the lid along the side like a "normal" casket and this eliminated the need for a heavy spring/shock. I still have a light spring because it smooths out the motion but it is not needed to make the prop work.

Oh, and if you want to save some $$ my local junk yard will let me pull a wiper assembly off a car for $5. There are usually a few more wires but that's not hard to figure out. Power supplies are super cheep at goodwill or electronic surplus stores. As a bonus the junkyard assembly has arms with ball/socket heads that are easy to make cranks out of.

I now use the commercial units from FP because they are consistent and easy to swap out and replace if needed.
 
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