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Discussion Starter #1
youtu.be/OxKX4BceLfoA walk through of my family Haunt , with all the things that go bump in the night. :cool:This is year 3 with Spike my 16' long 21' wingspan dragon, so far I have his wing retract/open working and his hinge set up for flapping, but alas I must first rebuild his rib cage to accommodate a breast bone to beef him up for all movement next year. Also I have to restructure his back bone for it is only 3/4" EMT right now, and I no for sure it would fail in time for what is coming . What is coming you ask, well, He will start out on four legs, the rear up on his hind legs, deploy his wings, and then flap a few times. Of coarse their will be some roaring, neck, head, eyes, and jaw movement. Also a bit of smoke for sure, but not sure of doing the pyrotechnics just yet. Oh he will be the coolest. I am very happy the way the pneumatic cylinders (home built) blend right in with his back. I only need 2 more pairs for the main body movements, the head will by RC servo powered. I have the pneumatic cylinders down pat, now just to find a good 10-16 channel electronic package to coordinate all movements, sound, and light. Never worked on yet, any suggestions that aren't too expensive???
o enjoy the walk through too. Be cool!
 

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What material did you use to get the wing bones to taper down to a point so well?

I'm building one for next year, starting on the design already. Instead of a fire dragon, I'm going with an Ice Dragon. Going to use Froggy's snow machine mounted in the head to shoot fake snow out onto the attacking skeleton squad. It'll also have piped up fog through its mouth. Froggy's called today and told me their machine fully loaded weighs in at 9.5 pounds. If I were back in San Antonio, I'd head over to my uncle's house and we'd slap this thing together in a day of cutting and welding. Here though, not so much.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
All bones were carved from Spruce for the prop lightness and also light on the wallet at $1 a board foot if you add it up. To make the tapers use an offset jig on the table saw, then route the smallest radius full length and it will not over cut the larger, then cut a piece of pipe 2" long and fashion it over the larger end with a bolt sticking out(Same jigging idea for end doweling center cup but a smaller pipe 5/16" ID inside the larger), and weld the bolt. Now you have a jig for a drill spinning, for one size. simply spin against a disc sander and you can buzz right through 10 pieces in no time. Note Tip Trick , I cut the bone on Spike into three pieces, to save on storage and handling, but it also saves the outer tips fro snapping if caught something. The joint between the largest to the middle I used, fiberglass rods 5/16" Dia. with reinforced spruce ends wrapped with pipe to contain the stress as to not crack. The outer joint I used 1/16" steel rod, but is far to weak do use 3/32" for better strength, on this joint I used heat shrink tubing as it is a much lighter load, and do let it rejoin the two together for better durability. The leg bones can also be rough routed to save time the add the build up for the joints. NOTE When one cuts a radius four times is become a dowel, nice and cheap hardwood dowels . I used wood for the ribs but 3/4 EMT would also work and speed construction . Oh I do know some tricks for speeding production.
But most of all do have fun with it!.
Seen below four different radiuses for the ribs all glued on one jig
 

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