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Discussion Starter #1
I'll be the first to say that I'm not the most electrically inclined person! LOL now I've built a few of the hacks using a motion detector from home depot but this time I'm trying to use cheaper items from Ebay. I got this motion detector from ebay for like $5 but the wires are not the same colors as the ones from home depot.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-12M-180-Security-PIR-Infrared-Motion-Sensor-Detector-Wall-LED-Light-Outdoor/122490054093?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

20170812_104747.jpg

My plan is to use an extension cord from goodwill with a cheap wall plug from walmart and a cheap plastic box. I want to keep the female side of the extension cord hot to run lights and/or sound.

20170812_104732.jpg

Any suggestions on how to wire all of this together would be a huge help!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I think I got it but I would like someone to verify my work before I plug it in.

I choppered off the female end of my power plug and connected both neg ends to the silver(pos) side of the plug and blue (neutral) wire to the other silver screw.

20170812_122444.jpg

I then connected the Red (load) wire to the to the gold (neg) side of the plug.

20170812_123110.jpg

Then connected but of the pos wires from the power plug back together with the Brown (hot) wire.

20170812_123119.jpg

Please let me know if i got any wires crossed!!!!

20170812_123659.jpg
 

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After lots of google searches I did find out that the
Brown is Hot
Blue is Neutral
Red is Load
first of all, this doesn't make sense. If this is truly for 120VAC, then it would be "hot" and "load" are the same thing. It "could" be Brown is Line, Red is Load, Blue is Neutral, but the listing says it is 12 volts. What a sensor would do is act as a switch. This would interrupt the hot wire, leaving it open when sensor is off and closed when sensor is on. If you could verify that this is a 120VAC product, and if the brown wire were truly line side, then that would be hooked up to hot coming from household outlet and the red would be hooked up to the receptacle you are making, going on the brass colored side. The blue neutral would go to the silver colored side.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Specifications:

Color choose: As the pictures show

Voltage choose: AC85V~265V(50Hz)/ DC 12V

Material: ABS

Working Rotation: 140°

Standard: LVD, EMC, CE, RoHS

IP Rating: Indoor application IP44

LUX Setting: 2-2000lux svr adjustable

Size: 60*47*156mm (approx.)

Induction lighting time: 5s~6min adjustable time

Detection distance: Approx 12M, installation 1.5-2.5M High

Connection:
Blue color: Zero line (Neutral)
Brown color: Live wire
Red: Ground wire
Output: Maximum 1000W incandescent lamp, 100W fluorescent lamp , Exhaust fan 100W, Motor 100W, Electric bell 100W
 

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I choppered off the female end of my power plug and connected both neg ends to the silver(pos) side of the plug and blue (neutral) wire to the other silver screw.

View attachment 446993
There aren't two negative ends. This is AC power, there is not a negative like DC. There is hot (typically black wire) and Neutral (White wire) and Green wire (ground). AC power power is Alternating Current, it alternates between positive and negative. So when you say the two negative ends are connected, to me this doesn't make sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
There aren't two negative ends. This is AC power, there is not a negative like DC. There is hot (typically black wire) and Neutral (White wire) and Green wire (ground). AC power power is Alternating Current, it alternates between positive and negative. So when you say the two negative ends are connected, to me this doesn't make sense.
I was talking about the negative side of the power cable. IE the side with the thicker plug or the textured wire.
 

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Specifications:

Color choose: As the pictures show

Voltage choose: AC85V~265V(50Hz)/ DC 12V

Material: ABS

Working Rotation: 140°

Standard: LVD, EMC, CE, RoHS

IP Rating: Indoor application IP44

LUX Setting: 2-2000lux svr adjustable

Size: 60*47*156mm (approx.)

Induction lighting time: 5s~6min adjustable time

Detection distance: Approx 12M, installation 1.5-2.5M High

Connection:
Blue color: Zero line (Neutral)
Brown color: Live wire
Red: Ground wire
Output: Maximum 1000W incandescent lamp, 100W fluorescent lamp , Exhaust fan 100W, Motor 100W, Electric bell 100W
This says that the red wire is ground.
It also says that is it for voltages AC85-265V at 50Hz, that is a European frequency, US is 60Hz. It also says 12V. It says choose.This makes no sense.
 

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I was talking about the negative side of the power cable. IE the side with the thicker plug or the textured wire.
The thicker blade is neutral, the thinner is hot. there is no Negative side. There is no positive side. A grounded plug will have the extra ground, green wire or bare copper.

Positive and Negative is for DC power.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Sorry I'm using the wrong terms but you get what I'm saying. I will have to read the product discretion better. Lol when it said out door motion detector I just assumed it was A.C.
 

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I looked up this on google, it might work as stated. I think the 12v they are referring to is for the PIR sensor itself, not for the load. Here is a youtube with this sensor to 220V. They say it will work with 120 also. According to this, you hooked this up correctly. I think I was thrown a bit by what you were doing with the female end of your extension cord and calling things positive and negative.


The neutral blade is the bigger blade on the plug. This should go to the silver side of the receptacle, with the blue wire. So you got that correct if that wire is truly coming from the bigger blade..
The smaller blade is the hot wire. This wire will go to the brown wire on the sensor and the small blade wire. That is correct if that is what you did.
The red wire goes to the load, which is the brass side of the receptacle. So you had it correct.
When the sensor trips, this should send power to the receptacle.
Sorry for the panic, but things didn't add up. Also, they say it will work with any voltages, so I hope that is true.

So it looks okay, according to internet video and info.
 

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Sorry I'm using the wrong terms but you get what I'm saying. I will have to read the product discretion better. Lol when it said out door motion detector I just assumed it was A.C.
yeah, it is partially DC, it is getting power from AC, but this is transformed into DC for the sensor, that is the 12V.

Here is a pic of a typical sensor:

Capture.jpg

You can see that the neutral goes from your AC input to the sensor, but also directly to the load (the bulb).
The "live" or hot goes to the sensor too, but it goes to one side of a relay. The relay is normally open, meaning no current passes. the red wire is on the other side of the relay, this goes to the load (here they labelled it signal, but it is really the load side). When the sensor detects something, it will switch the relay closed and power will go thru from the brown wire to the red wire to the load. The load will turn on since it has both hot and neutral.
When the sensor stops sensing, the relay will open, stopping power to the load.
 

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go outside. Get a long extension cord. If you have one of those surge protected outlets, plug that into the extension. Plug your PIR extension cord into the surge protector. Plug a lamp into the new receptacle box you made.

Now, plug in the extension cord. If nothing blows up, go over to the PIR and trip it with your hand. If the lamp turns on and doesn't blow up, then it works. If it does blow up, then it was nice knowing you.

Unless you crossed a wire, it should be good to go.

Now, it may not trip, but you will have to adjust the settings. I think there were three settings on it? one is for the sensitivity of the PIR, one for the timer (how long to have it on for) and one for day night mode? Not sure, but I think you can play with them and get it set.

Good luck, let me know how it turns out.
 
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