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Could you do this same method with any plastic head form ? I thought about using one but changing up the facial features on it instead of making a duplicate
 

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Sorry mean to hit reply with quote. yes I would like to know where you got the molds from as well as how yours turned out
 

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Great job. The replicas look so good. Im' using pretty much the same technique but I keep running into issues at the seams. The resin gets into the seam & kind of locks it together, then i break it trying to pry it apart. Are you using anything to shore up your seamlines?
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Great job. The replicas look so good. Im' using pretty much the same technique but I keep running into issues at the seams. The resin gets into the seam & kind of locks it together, then i break it trying to pry it apart. Are you using anything to shore up your seamlines?
Is your mold silicone? You could always give a quick spray with a mold release on anything that's 'sticking' (Pol-Ease® 2500 Release Agent or similar). With the relatively thick silicone (say, 1/8") layer and the exterior plastic shell holding everything tightly together I really didn't have any visible seams, but if got things mis-aligned it would leave a thing little line of flashing that easily broke away. I suspect that the best thing to do is figure out why the seam is opening and fix that first-- otherwise use some mold release so at least you don't have to fight it if it does leak some.

-Clay
 

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Thanks for the quick reply. My newer molds are silicone, my older ones are latex. My question probably should've been, how do you get your seams to line up so well? I've been making a single seam line from about an inch above the eye sockets all the way down to base through the flange. I was under the impression that a flange was necessary, but I'm starting to get the impression that isn't the case. Any chance you could tell me where you make your seams? Your mold looks much cleaner than mine. I'm still fairly new to mold making, so forgive any dumb questions. I'm using my molds for roto-casting plastic resin.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Thanks for the quick reply. My newer molds are silicone, my older ones are latex. My question probably should've been, how do you get your seams to line up so well?
What I did was to apply the silicone in layers and covered the entire piece like a glove-- then after it cured I cut back just enough so that I could pull the original out of the mold. I cut along the jaw line in sort-of a 'U' shape and then straight down the back of the skull (figuring that would be the least noticeable area were it to leave a seam). The mold is still one piece, but can be 'peeled' open with the mouth/eye sockets being the 'bottom' when it's filled. (Look about 2/3rds down the first page for my picture of the mold 'opened up'.) Since the silicone is relatively thick (~1/8"+), it's actually pretty rigid and wants to just spring back to the shape it was cast in which kinda automatically closes up the seams. Once the exterior support shell is in place it really holds the mold from all sides so it can't move around an allow any seams to pop open.
 
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