i just banged out 80 feet (10 8 feet sections)of fence in about 6 hours. it goes quick after the first section.A couple tips for you.
1. Find a drill press with a spade or forstner bit. If using 3/4 PVC get a 1 1/8 bit.
2. Find a miter saw for cutting PVC
3. Make templates for the spacing.
Template #1 Take left over 1x2 board and cut it to the length of the spacing you will be using. I used 8 inch spacing. Also etch the center point so when you draw the line on its edge it with indent the center point.
Template #2 and3 I had 4inch spacing between the bottom of the PVC to to bottom of the bottom section. I just used old PVC cut to this size Also the same for the top rail 20 inch from the bottom to the bottom of the top. No need you a tape measure after you make these.
The PVC will have to be secured with screws.
For template #1, I took a piece as long as the finished sections (10'), and put a screw in the exact center of where each piece should go. I drove the screws through to the other side, so that they stuck out about 1/4". Then, it was a simple matter to put this template on top of another board, screw points down, and lightly tap the top of every screw. When the template is removed, you'll have the center of every hole indented, perfect for use with a spade bit. I was able to mark and drill 100' of fence in well under an hour, including the time to make the template (which became the last piece, once I removed the screws and drilled it).
For cutting the pvc, I used a chop saw, to which I added a 2x4 template out one side, with a wood stop at the end. To cut the individual lengths of PVC, I just put the pvc against the stop, and it was exactly the right length, time after time. You can very quickly cut a LOT of vertical pieces this way. I, too, used 8" spacing. For 100 feet of fence, that's 150 pieces that needed to be cut.
For assembly, I screwed 12 small blocks and 2 2x4's to a sheet of plywood, which I had laying on the ground. The blocks showed me position of the top and bottom of the horizontal board. i.e., there were 6 pairs of blocks, 3 for both top and bottom rail. They were positioned at the ends and middle of the board. All I had to do to get the board in the right spot was to drop the board in place. The 2x4's were the stops for the top and bottom of the vertical pieces. To assemble a section, I slipped the verticals into the boards, then dropped the whole thing into the jig, sliding the boards into the blocks, and slipping the verticals in between the 2x4's. When it was in place, I did a quick pilot hole for all 30 holes, and then put in a black 1" drywall screw. Making the jig took about 15 minutes, but I definitely saved more than that by the time I did the second or third section. The only complaint I had with the jig was that it was 8' long, whereas my fence was 10' long. So, I had to reposition the 13/15th's completed fence in the jig to get the last two verticals done.
Craig