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· Powered by Unicorn Blood
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am no electronics wiz! I would like to know a bit more about how to build a bare circuit board....maybe to build a trigger of some type. I know a little about soldering, but not enough to build something with out melting a lot of stuff.

What wattage iron to use?
How to go about assembly?
Trick of the trade?
Etc...
 

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Here's a partial video on basic soldering techniques that was taken when I was doing a electronics presentation for Arizona Haunters - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ngRTXlhLSJI
Hope it answers a few of your questions but feel free to ask any questions you still may have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Good stuff! Thanks for the input. I need a hotter iron. Still a bit confused on how to solder the components to the board. Painters tape them on the back(where the components are?) and them flow the solder from the wire side to the component side?
 

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Great skill to pick up. You'll find it FOREVER useful! Just be careful.. once you start building handy little circuits, it's hard to stop! I should know. LOL
 

· Human Candy Shovel
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If there's one tip I have to give it is this:

Hit radio shack for a cheap spool of 22 or 24 gauge wire and a breadboard with tinned holes (like this one). You'll spend maybe 8 bucks on the two. Snip about 100 short bits of wire, a half inch long or less, strip the insulation off one end and practice soldering them into the holes on the breadboard. When you're done, if you're not confidant you've picked up the technique, just keep going until you've filled in all the holes. If you manage to solder a bit of wire into every last one of those holes, you'll know what you're doing.

Anyway, you want the tinned holes because the solder sticks to the board far better and easier than a board with untinned holes. That makes developing the technique easier. When you feel ready to further refine your technique, get a breadboard with untinned holes.

And to answer one question, my 30 watt soldering iron reaches a temperature of 735 F. So you don't need a high wattage iron to get the job done. And yes, I do occasionally burn wire insulation with it, but I have yet to burn any components with it. I've even accidentally touched LED bodies with it without damage to the shell.

Incidentally, folks should also learn about point-to-point electronics construction. When you want a particular circuit, you won't always be able to find a handy, etched, mass produced circuit board to make life easy. point-to-point construction also lets you repair things you'd otherwise have to toss in the trash, like a broken circuit board. I have even given new life to a broken computer thanks to point-to-point repairs. It got pushed off a desk and a 4 inch circular fracture occurred in one corner of the board. Almost 800 point to point connections later (and substantial application of hot glue), it was in working order again. I used that damned thing for another 6 years, first as my primary desktop and later as a file server.
 

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To give you some idea, I built my 6-way Windowed Timer Controller entirely using point-to-point wiring. I couldn't have possible made a nice, clean PCB as a one-off. It would have been far more effort than building the circuit in the first place. The controller ran six different scares completely independantly, each triggered with a motion sensor, for an entire evening, plus two FULL days of testing while we were setting up. Not a problem!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I am having trouble grasping the point to point construction. I s it basically soldering wires to the components and connecting components via the wires?...and then mounting it to a board of wood or something?

This is such great intel! thanks you guys!

Just received this in the mail today
 

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· A 1 man army of darkness
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I am having trouble grasping the point to point construction. I s it basically soldering wires to the components and connecting components via the wires?...and then mounting it to a board of wood or something?

This is such great intel! thanks you guys!

Just received this in the mail today

That's pretty much the nuts & bolts of point to point. Although generally speaking, if you're going to secure the component's to a board, you'd want to do that prior to assembling the next part if I'm reading your post correctly. Or, you can just leave them floating in mid air suspended between larger components like so...


Electronics Electrical wiring Cable management Wire Technology



Either way doesn't really make any discernible difference. You can even do point to point on the perforated project pcb's if you prefer. Or, if your feeling froggy, nails tacked into a masonite or even plywood make a good medium for point to point wiring.


Just a little pointer,, with respect to inductors (if your circuit uses them), the general rule of thumb is to orient them 90 degrees away from one another if their in close proximity so the electromagnetic fields don't interfere with each other.


I don't bother with tape and such when soldering to pcb's. Instead, just bend the leads of each component enough to where it holds the part in place. It's a lot less time consuming than taping the components down in my opinion. It's especially useful when it comes to IC sockets, you'll find.


Congrats on the Haako, they are very high quality irons. :D
 

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OMB: If you are doing point-to-point, then I would strongly recommend getting some "perf board" to lay everything down on. That's how I built my timer controller. It helps keep the components lined up and in place, and lets you mount the finish circuit if you want afterwards. Looks a lot tidier, too.
 
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