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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Haunters,

I have made a 4' x 8' sign that I will be hanging outside and was hoping for advice on weather proofing.... Glue or Spar Urethane?

Some details:

-Sign is made out of Foam and Wood with many coats of Acrylic Paint.
-I have used scrap pieces for testing and have found both seem to go over the Acrylic paint just fine. The glue was very slight watered down to spread more easily and the Urethane went on very thin and would require many coats to match the glues thickness.

So, my main concerns/questions are:

-Will one of these two top coats be more flexible and not crack over time? (the glue seems to be slightly flexible after a week of drying)
-Will either one of these make the paint to start to De-laminate over time?
-Which one of these will be a better weather proof er?

I have spent a lot of time researching this and wanted to see if anyone has some advice/preference on this process?

Thanks in advance.
PB

Sign-layers.jpg

Glue.jpg
 

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Personally I'm a fan of spar urethane or spar varnish or even a clear acrylic may be your best bet...... however I am no longer a fan of any Minwax product as their quality has gone down hill over the past few years.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the info. Duckstruck! Since I have already bought Minwax, is the quality that bad still not too use it? Have you ever tried the glue method?
 

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Phantom Blue: I can't make a recommendation for your sealer, but I had to post to say how AWESOME your sign is! I love the depth you got from the layers. Will you post a pic of the whole sign?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Intellagirl.

I made a poster and then had to come up with a sign to use. Still need to add the rusty color to the white letters, but here as the last pic taken.

Phantom-Farm-2014-small.jpg

No-rust.jpg

Any other weather proofing advice?

Thanks,
PB
 

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Before you urethane your beautiful sign, be sure it will dry clear. I sealed a manger scene to waterfroof it and the white has a pale yellow tint now.
 

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Spar varnish is also labeled marine varnish and is designed to seal against weather and is used on marine applications like wood on a boat. It will hold up great over time. However, as suggested check the color if this is an issue as it does yellow. Not an issue over teak wood railing but on a sign with bright colors that may be an problem. However, it is a known tool with proven results. Glue? not sure if I would roll the dice on that if it was mine. .
 

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Phantom Blue, If you have Minwax go ahead you might as well use it. MAKE SURE you do a test area or test on some scrap first and make sure your components are compatible.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for everyone's input!

TNBrad: Trying to do this on a shoestring budget and finding the perfect homemade solution.

function12: I used the heavy duty liquid nails for each layer and am pretty pleased so far. I did buy a few of the PL300 tubes, but read that it is not best to use with acrylic. I am sure that means plastic sheets, but since I painted so many coats of acrylic paint, wanted to be on the safe side.

jbaum: Glue seems to dry thicker and clear with some flex. So far I test the urethane only on the red part, which looks good. Have not tried on the white yet....thanks for the heads up.

Beaver State Rich: Thanks for the info. I thought that glue would be a little weird to use, but it has sealed all the edges of the letters per edge and I am surprised how well it looks and seems to have a slight flex after several days of drying. But you are right, I am worried about covering such a large surface with unknown consequences.

duckstruck: Thanks for the feedback. The small section that I did use the Minwax on looked great....just went on thin and know I would need to do 4-6 coats to feel safe. I am not an expert with urethane and/or different brands.

annamarykahn: Great idea....I have seen this discussed here before, but never followed-up to see what everyone thoughts were. I like the spry-on idea, as it will help with time. I am not sure about how much it would take to cover all the front and back, but I will check out the coverage specs and maybe give this a shot.

Thanks again for the input. First big foam project, so there has been a lot of trail and error, but I am at the point where I would not like to have any more error. ;)

PB
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Quick follow-up in case this helps:

Since I had the clear polyurethane already, I went for it and used 3 coats on the front and one on the back side and this is how it turned out.

You guys were right about the white part turning a little yellowish, it gives it an older look.

Thanks again for the tips.

PB

clear-polyurethane-finish.jpg
 
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