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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am working on day 2 of trying to glue my plastic pumpkin pails together....I am making a column of sorts, but hollowed out the bottoms so it would wrap around my porch columns.... so its more like a rim/rim bond...that is needed when stacked. I have been thru liquid nails, pvc cement stuff, dap fast bond glue stuff...anything else??? I even used that goop 6000 stuff...

any ideas? next comes the heat gun...which I'm kinda scared I'm gonna blow myself up now...I don't understand why plastic on plastic is always difficult for me.:mad:
 

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Hot glue hasn't worked for me. I tried glueing plastic skulls together and had them on my front porch hat faces south. The warmth from the sun made them completely fall apart. But maybe if your project stays somewhere cooler it will work. I'm interested to see if any other ideas come up here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the suggestions....my front porch gets steady hot sun, even in winter so I'm going to stay away from hotglue...I just gobbed on some more of the dap stuff may need to wait another 24hrs :( I hate waiting for stuff to dry!
 

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Plastic welding? Harbor Freight has a plastic welding thing that might work. If all else fails I would try using pop rivets to attach them to each other. Some plastics are so slick nothing sticks to them.
 

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Have you tried GOOP GLUE YET? I have used it many times with excellent results.
Liberally apply to the two opposing surfaces, allow to dry for just a short time, then clamp the two items together or lay something heavy on them to replace clamping, allow warmth and time to do it's thing. On a warm day a few hours will do pretty good, allow 24 hours for a complete drying .
I have glued fabric together, Vynl too and things remain glued! The smell of the GOOP does pretty much fade away after some time has passed.
I used GOOP to glue vynl to the hood of my Spookmobile, I gave it an 80MPH quick-test it held.
When i glued the Vynl to the hood I first glued and folded a 1/2" wide piece of the Vynl over onto itself, left it dry for a day, then glued this doubled edge to the steel hood with some heavy steel bars to hold it down for another day.
I used to hand-sew denim slide blankets together making foot pockets for people's feet and they remained glued as people might push hard against the pocket with their feet (inside of their shoes).
i glued vynl Butt-pads together with GOOP, these items get a lot of pulling, stresses but remain together. Some might eventually submit to those forces , if that happens i re-glue them and they work again for a long time, so it is no big deal, it's just slight maintenance.
I own no stock in the GOOP Company.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks everyone!...The PVC pipe cement didn't work either...the GOOP stuff I used didn't work ....I'm headed out to Lowes today to search the liquid nail section again...I used some stuff years ago that had an instant bond...and I can't find it...if all else fails I'm going to try to duck tape the edges together and spray flex seal all around he bases and sides in hope to "weld" it together with the rubber stuff, since I was going to paint/rot them up anyway...if the commercial shows a guy floating in a boat with a screen door..maybe it will hold pumpkins together...lol
 

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:)I've always had excellent results with E6000, but it sounds like you didn't. Maybe a combo of hot glue to hold it in place while the E6000 cures out? I know you do have to let it set to get a really good hold. The only other thing I can suggest is Lord Fusor products, we use them here at our body shop for bumper repairs and panel adhesion. It is pretty permanent and I've used it making props that have held up for years. It's expensive, but it works wonders. You should be able to find it a good auto parts store, but I'd call first.
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/lord-fusor-extreme-bumper-repair-adhesive-fast-p-15949.aspx
 

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RCIAG had said to rough the up a bit, and to piggyback on that make sure you wash them with a degreaser or Dawn. Those come out of molds at the factory that get sprayed down with a release agent so the pumpkins don't stick during production. This release agent can prevent the best of glues from bonding.
 

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Some Glue 101. :) Glues work by being able to seep into gaps found on surfaces and grab a hold of them. Cements work by chemically dissolving the surface and creating a chemical bond. Glues can't work where there's no surface gaps to grasp onto and cements can't work if the solvent in them isn't the right sort to dissolve the surface you're putting them on.

Those plastic pales are likely made of a very smooth vinyl, so the glue will dry, but there's nothing for it to grab onto so it pulls/peels right off. Another problem that PirateDex mentioned is there may still be release agents on the vinyl that need to be washed off.

One alternative method I've used successfully is Great Stuff. Cut a 1-2" hole in the bottom of a pumpkin, set it on top of the one below it, stick the Great Stuff tube through the hole and into the lower pumpkin and start filling. When you feel the foam pushing back on you, start easing the tube out of the hole and start a mound of foam in the top pumpkin. The foam will expand and harden and form a solid column between the two pumpkins. Repeat the process as you add more pumpkins.

By the way... make sure you add some rocks or other ballast to the bottom pumpkin before putting any on top of it. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Good news the flexseal spray and flexseal caulk seemed to have done the job! I've just threw on a black basecoat all over them....so waiting on more drying time before I can break out the fun part!
 
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