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Hi, I've built a standard cooler fog on the rocks type chiller out of a 60 quart coleman cooler, ABS pipe and hardware cloth. I have 2 foggers, the 400 watt mini-silver Gemmy and a 400 watt from Target (also Gemmy? I have to look tonight). I also wonder which is better. I guess I can try both. 2 questions:

1. What is the optimal distance from the front of the nozzle guard on the fogger and the input of the plastic pipe? I am using a reducer so that I have th 2 inch opening that opens to the 3 inch pipe.

2. Ignoring the actual effect I am trying for, what is the ideal on/off time I want? What I'm trying to do is have short bursts to allow the ice to "recharge" the cold in the cooler, and to keep the unit from constantly going into standby mode to recharge. If I don't get this right, then the unit shuts off power to my timer while it re-heats. Do I want a 5 second burst? 10 second burst? Can I go longer? Then how long of a rest period between bursts? Thanks!
 

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I had this problem with my 18G storage cooler with a 400 watt fogger.
I had set for 5 second bursts but found the container had to fill up before fog would exit. extending the burst helped but eventually the fogger seemed to over heat and powered down for a short time. I think a smaller chiller would have provided better results for me. Trial and error will provide best results for your setup. Let us know what you find works best.
 

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FrightRisk,

As far as the gap.. I have been trying to find the answer to this regarding the gap and using a venturi at the input. I've seen a bunch of youtube videos showing foggers with nozzle all the way in and a venturi input.. and I've also read that you should always leave a 2" to 3" gap. The main thing is.. the fog needs to expand with air.. so that 2-3" gap gives enough air between your nozzle and the input to expand. I think the more powerful your fogger is.. the faster/further it shoots out.. so it may require more of a gap.

What I still haven't got answered is the use of a venturi. I've seen some say it helps because as the fog goes streaming by the straight pipe.. it creates a sort of suction on the other opening (the venturi port) and sucks air in.. further helping both chill the fog and expand it more.. giving you more fog. The question is.. if I put my fogger 2+" away.. do I STILL use a venturi as well.. or does it not matter? If there is no difference.. than why would anyone come up with the use of the venturi in the first place. Simply keeping the fogger 2+" away is easy enough to do.. simply pull it back 2+". So I am lost as to where/why/how the venturi design came into play. My only conclusion thus far is that if you stick the nozzle all the way into the ABS tube.. the venturi does basically what would happen if you had no venturi and had the nozzle 2+" away from the input. Maybe I am wrong.. maybe that "suction" actually pulls in a substantial amount of more air.. and is better. I am going to try both to see what happens.. but let's put it this way.. if the venturi adds 10% or so more fog.. I probably can't tell visually. Maybe 30 to 40% or more fog would be noticeable.. but then.. I would think everyone and there mother would be posting about using the venturi if that was the case.

But.. from everything I read.. the optimal distance is 2" to 3" away.. to give your fog enough air and time to expand greatly. I would remove the reducer at the input.. in fact I am guessing you have the same design I did for my gotfog.com chiller. I did a 48qt or some size longer than taller ice cooler.. ran the rounded mesh tube lengthwise from the input to the output, pack it full of ice all around that mesh tube.. and had the U shaped ABS fro the input up to above the cooler so I could put my fogger on top of it. Here's the problem with that design.. it works.. but as I found out.. especially for more powerful foggers.. most of the fog that enters the cooler goes straight thru to the output. Some will come out of the mesh and hit the ice.. chill.. and eventually go out. I also noticed that it did a decent job of making it lay low.. but the main problem I found with that.. which is why I scrapped it (sitting in my backyard.. nobody wants it. :( ), and went for the vortex style.. is that even tho the fog lays low.. it quickly starts to raise again.

The trick is.. as many have said.. to get longer contact on the ice. You want the fog to stay in the chamber longer.. especially going thru the ice.. to chill more. The vortex design achieves this much better than the gotfog design by forcing the fog thru the ice completely to get out. Some have indicated the ice chamber was smaller and more air chamber.. I tend to agree with those that find a larger ice chamber is better as it gives more contact with the ice before exiting.

The original vortex design has the fog come into the bottom of the cooler.. and as it's still hot (and expanding in that air chamber) it rises up as hot air does.. thru the ice.. eventually pouring over the lip of the tube and flows down and out. But most videos I've seen show the fog coming in thru that 90 degree bent tube, smashing into the top and using the top of the cooler as an air chamber to expand.. and the force at which it comes in and hits/expands forces it down thru the ice and finally out. What makes sense about this to me is.. once the fog chiils.. its going to go down. The original vortex design uses the notion that the hot fog will rise.. which is correct.. but what I think nobody is 100% sure of is.. once it starts rising thru the ice.. how much of it will sort of leak back down or linger around the ice because its now chilled and no longer hto enough to rise. Naturally pressure from more and more fog coming in will eventually expel it, and that may make it the better way to go. Who knows. lol. I've seen videos of using both ports for input on the vortex design and it seems to do about as well either way you go. I will be testing this out soon as my fog chiller is dry and I can finish it and play with it.

As Shirmp said.. the more output your fogger has, the larger chiller you'll need to effectively cool it. One guy posted his chiller picture on my other thread (Fog Chillers 2008). He did basically what the comercial Vortex fog chiller that sells for $125 does.. kitty litter bucket (large one..but not as big as the 48qt igloo cooler I dont think), you can look on that thread and see his chiller picture on the last page. It worked well for his 400 watt fogger.. probably would work decent for a 700 watt fogger. I am guessing the 1000+watts need larger containers. The 60qt igloo I am almost done with I hope is big enough.. I am not going any bigger lol.
 

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I don't know what is best... I just know what I did...

  • I used a modified GotFog 48qt fog chiller cooler
  • I bought one of these so I could put the fogger flush to the pipe opening
  • I have a Chauvet 1250 and used Froggy's Low Laying Fog Juice.
  • I had the fogger sitting inline with the cooler instead of on top.

I used that double wye inlet pipe so I didn't have to have the space between the fogger and fog chiller inlet. I didn't want kids to burn themselves. Is this the optimal setup? I don't know... it was for me.

Interval... for me, I set it to shortest interval and longest duration. I was trying to fill my backyard and it did a fair job. I think I'd need 2 Chauvet 1250's to do it how I want it.

Also, personally, I won't be buying froggy's again. To me, it just isn't worth the premium price if it is just going to float away outside anyway. I had a dead still night and it still made its way out of my yard. For filling a large building... I'd buy Froggy's in a second.
 

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Interesting.. the Black Label I have seems not so thick.. but then I am blowing it out into a bit of wind.. and its very light out.. well.. actually.. raining/dark/light if that makes sense.

I am kind of bummed about how often and long the heater has to stop everything and reheat. I get about two 10 second bursts.. with a pause of about 20 seconds in between.. and after the 2nd burst.. the heater has to be reheated...which takes a good 15 or more seconds. I don't get that at all. WTF? Why.. between intervals is it not reheating so it can keep on going?

I guess I should probably return this and get a continuous for next year. This is never going to keep a smooth solid fog rolling across the grass. Maybe with the chiller slowing the output a bit.. it will have enough still rolling out while the heater is heating up.
 

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15-20 seconds is really not that long of a wait in reality compared to other lower wattage units. If the fog is chilling properly and hanging around it should be plenty. If it is not putting out enough that you think it should then the answer would be to get another fogger to help maintain the fog. It really doesn't need to be really that heavy to where you can't see, you are just wanting a natural look. Now if it is completely going away between blasts then that is a different story. The better answer would be to add another machine to aid in the other one.

A continuous fogger wouldn't be much better because you would be using more juice to run it just so it could blow away. You can never predict the conditions on the big night so it could be a waste of money. Even though I have 9 foggers I only use 3 to fog my yard through chillers and it is plenty. My 4 watt foggers are placed inside of coffins, cauldrons, and other props etc for just effect.
 

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9 foggers. Holy cow. Then, would you suggest a continuous fogger, two (2) Chauvet 1250's or one (1) Chauvet 1700 to fog a backyard through chillers? I mean, really lay in the ground fog... everywhere. (obviously there are many variables that I have not explained... but I was wondering if you had an opinion) To me, it seems like my fenced in 50'x50' backyard would take 3 foggers to really fog it how I'd like.

I think it is funny how some of use look at the fog effect like an art form. Its like we can't help ourselves.

I'll throw in one somewhat thread relevant remark... it is absurd that there isn't some sort of intermediate heat function that will maintain the heat. I'd think a $150 fogger would do it. A $20 400watt from Walmart? Not so much. But a $150 fogger that runs at 800 watts? Yes.

I don't think you'll find the "perfect" interval/duration beyond what you already know. It just doesn't exit with a fogger that lets its heating element cool while it sits during the "interval" time out.



Even though I have 9 foggers I only use 3 to fog my yard through chillers and it is plenty. My 4 watt foggers are placed inside of coffins, cauldrons, and other props etc for just effect.
 

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Yea I don't use all 9 machines to fog my yard. It is only 20'x40' in size and I use 3 to fog the yard through chillers and it is plenty (2 1200w, 1 1700w). I like to over due things sometimes and live by the Navy rule that 2 is 1 and 1 is none if you know what I mean. The other machines are low wattage machines 400-700w that are stuck in props like coffins, cauldrons, etc. Those I use to straight up fog so it billows out and up. I also have 325 usable amps to work with for my display that was installed just for Halloween and Christmas. Halloween doesn't use that much but my Christmas pushes just over 125 amps.

I personally wouldn't suggest a continuous fogger for outdoor use. You have to factor in wind etc. and those things burn up ALOT of juice. I just don't think they are practical for outdoor use.

You have the backyard that is slopped and runs down hill right? If so it would be a lot easier because it will run down hill. A lot of factors come into play. Like I mentioned in the other thread, power. How much power do you have to use since high wattage foggers use a lot of power. Wind comes into play, how much do you have this time of year and what direction does it come across your yard even if it is just a breeze.

IMO for a 50x50' yard I think you are right with thinking 3 foggers to do it right. I would do this though. You have to keep in mind power consumption and how much power you have to use. So to keep that low I would go with 3 1200w machines. Lay them out as shown in the below. The machines would be at the top of your yard close to the house to cut down on your power runs. I would then place them 15-16' from the end and between each fogger. I would then have them connected to vortex trash can chillers. From those chillers have them connected to the 4" drainage tube straight down to the back. This should fog things nicely and keep everything even. See the illustration below.

 
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