It would help to know what controllers you have.
Ferrite bead question
I have about 15 prop controllers. 2 sets of the controllers are setting each other off or going off on a seeming separate circuit. The controllers are pretty rock solid and I'm very pleased with them--but I'm having this issue.
I reduced one issue by placing one controller on a separate electrical circuit. But it still goes off on it's own. Another set of controllers kinda set each other off--they are on the same breaker and I cannot separate those.
My question is--will changing out the power supply with a power supply that has a ferrite bead solve/reduce my problems. I know just enough about electronics to know what a ferrite bead is--but now how they work.
I reduced one issue by placing one controller on a separate electrical circuit. But it still goes off on it's own. Another set of controllers kinda set each other off--they are on the same breaker and I cannot separate those.
My question is--will changing out the power supply with a power supply that has a ferrite bead solve/reduce my problems. I know just enough about electronics to know what a ferrite bead is--but now how they work.
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I have the ones that scuba sells on the forum--4 button learning controller. but i was told Fright props has the same issue.
Well, I can't directly speak for that controller as I don't own any, but because it's a key banger, there's no way to program a "debounce" into the trigger code.
A "debounce" is a section of code that forces the controller to wait for a solid trigger before executing the program.
Without a debounce, any electrical impulse (and it can be very tiny) picked up by the wiring could possibly cause a false trigger and from your description, that's what is happening. I use controllers that use written code for the programming and I always include a debounce section for the trigger otherwise false starts are likely. Maybe scuba can suggest a fix.
A "debounce" is a section of code that forces the controller to wait for a solid trigger before executing the program.
Without a debounce, any electrical impulse (and it can be very tiny) picked up by the wiring could possibly cause a false trigger and from your description, that's what is happening. I use controllers that use written code for the programming and I always include a debounce section for the trigger otherwise false starts are likely. Maybe scuba can suggest a fix.
would a ferrite help any. As of yet Scuba hasn't come up with a solution
Are the controllers mounted in or on the props? I seem to recall something about running the wires a certain way to prevent this . Any pictures of the setup?
I was having some feedback issues occasionally with my DMX props. Wasn't a huge issue but was going to give this a shot as I think it would have solved the problem... I was told that the solenoid on pneumatic props can throw feedback up through the systems and set off another prop. So, if you have DC solenoids you install a diode. Here's a link that shows how to install them: http://www.frightprops.com/faq/content/4/120/en/installing-a-dc-diode-for-feedback-absorption.html If it's an AC solenoid - install a capacitor: http://www.frightprops.com/faq/index.php?action=artikel&cat=1&id=118&artlang=en
Hope that works for you. I had quit walk-through haunting before I was going to install these.
Hope that works for you. I had quit walk-through haunting before I was going to install these.
Along with what Terra was saying if you are using relays a diode or capacitor would help also. They would go across the coil connections.
the one prop has no solenoids--has a fogger, fright props cracker, lets and 120v lighting
If you're using the key banger it has relay outputs on it doesn't it ? The diode-capacitor might still apply. Can you power all the boards from only 1 power supply?
no--i have them spread out all over
I put a 470 ohm resistor between sig and (-) on the trigger input and the board quit false triggering from solenoids.
The Fright Props cracker is a powerful electronic pulse - I would think that could be causing it.
Not sure what you are using for trigger devices but you might try shielded cable for the trigger wiring.
The trigger that is used in that room is a large knife switch
Yeah, that sounds like a lot of metal surface for picking up electrical impulses.
This may be a long shot , but have you tried using twisted pairs? you're really not giving a lot of information as to what's going on as far as specifics so it's kind of hard to help. If you could post some pictures or a schematic of the layout that might help.
Let me see if i can explain it better. The controller has 4 channels in no particular order
channel 1 :Fright props cracker
channel 2 fog machine remote switch contacts
channel 3 12v Led's running off the same power supply as the control board
channel 4 120v lighting.
The trigger for the prop is a huge knife switch.that closes contact and triggers the board
There is nothing else on this circuit--it's own circuit breaker.
The board seems to trigger at seemingly random times. There are no solenoids in the same circuit or on the same breaker. Before trigger just the 120v lights are sold ones. There is sound also, but I think that is unimportant.
Once the prop is triggered, the LED's and 120v lighting flash and the cracker and for machine are solid on for about 15 seconds.
channel 1 :Fright props cracker
channel 2 fog machine remote switch contacts
channel 3 12v Led's running off the same power supply as the control board
channel 4 120v lighting.
The trigger for the prop is a huge knife switch.that closes contact and triggers the board
There is nothing else on this circuit--it's own circuit breaker.
The board seems to trigger at seemingly random times. There are no solenoids in the same circuit or on the same breaker. Before trigger just the 120v lights are sold ones. There is sound also, but I think that is unimportant.
Once the prop is triggered, the LED's and 120v lighting flash and the cracker and for machine are solid on for about 15 seconds.
Have you tried installing capacitors across the relay outputs? I think I would try them on the cracker and fog machine . I really don't think it's the knife switch, but I could be wrong. What have you tried so far?
I haven't tried anything yet--was hoping a ferrite was the answer
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