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I actually had a high speed boring spade bit, it has the screw tip that pulls it through the wood, it was 'too good'. My old drill press did not have enough torque for it. I still used it in my hand drill for the first center hole, but everything after that one the forstner did a clean job. The Jig let me flip the board over and drill from both sides with accuracy. Did 30 boards, so 270 holes in about 45 minutes. Setup out n the deck under a canopy so it was nice and cool. You can see the Vac duck taped to the press to help with the mess.

Now I have to paint and assemble the other 9 sections, then build the End Posts. Can't wait to get it all done. If the whole looks anything like the one section I will be extremely happy. Going away for the weekend so it will have to wait a week or so.
Too funny same thing with my bit but then just bought a cheap spade bit that worked. I cheated I just got the point through flipped it over and centered it that way. Some might have been offf but got most of them. I have my sections in diffrent sizes and only have a couple 8 ft sections and had one section recently through out as it had a lot of tree sap on it and just didn't want to deal with it. Since I do my big haunt at the campground it changes up some, really hoping to nail it down more this year as I have been getting the same site the past few years and works pretty good. Just wish I could remember from year to year what I used, lol. But want to chnage it up again a little but not 100% sure as I might need to build some more sections. Maybe next year and just write stuff down better as my pics don't tell me what I need to know. It is like I have an idea but not 100% sure, lol. And with the change it effects the fog that I do, why not sure. Need time to setup at home and test but don't have it. Wife pretty much has plans for me most weekends even though at the same time she is encouraging me and saying that I need to go through thing instead of ending up taking everything out again. usually takes me several trips.
 

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Those of you who have used furring strips--how have they held up over time? A fence is an upcoming project, and I'm concerned that there will be too little wood on either side of the hole, and it will be brittle.
 

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Those of you who have used furring strips--how have they held up over time? A fence is an upcoming project, and I'm concerned that there will be too little wood on either side of the hole, and it will be brittle.
Just in the build process on mine. Since a 1x2 is actually only about 1 1/2" wide, and the OD of 1/2 PVC requires a 7/8 hole, that leaves with just a little over 1/4 of wood on each side. Other than the piece my bit tore apart, they seem to be holding well. I'm also screwing in each connection between wood and PVC for added strength.

I am curious to hear what others with some time on theirs have to say. wondering if a 1x3 might not be better in the long run.
 

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If the pipe were glued in with an epoxy glue, that would probably make it strong enough, but it also means that each section can't be disassembled for storage.
 

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Mine have held up pretty good over 3 years from the original build with just 1x2s and 1/2 pvc pipe. Mine are all screwed in, wanted to have everything come apart at first and changed my mine. When assembled they are alot better and not as fragile when unassembled I did break one or 2 but mostly my own fault. The only one that I have to replace is because of pine tree sap it was leaning against storing it was really bad. Mine also travel to the campground so do get beat up pretty good.

My biggest tip would be to prep the PVC before painting or staining, I didn't have the time and regret it now. Have been debating rebuilding them and using the stain method, also thought about just doing it all with PVC but really wouldn't look right. Mine will also be used for something else this year after halloween as I'm thinking about putting a bar bottom on them so more moveable and putting them under my camper to keep tge dog out from getting hung up and stuck and then have to go out and untangle him.
 

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I went back and looked at my Flickr account and the first year with my fence was 2012 so they've been going strong since 2012. I've added more pieces since, but I think that's pretty good. Nothing special or ornate but easy to put together, take down and store away and I don't have to have someplace to hang them in the garage.
 

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With what pfunky said, mine sit outside all year long against something. Like a pine tree one year why the one had so much sap on it, and wasn't worth it to try and clean it up.
 

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I don't have a place inside to store my new fencing, so it will need to survive outside all year between the garage and 'real' fence. I've had to do this with other fencing and props in the past. Most have survived well, and a year of weathering tends to add character to them. The big problem I've seen is when wood is left in contact with the ground. Since most of the fence is PVC and only the rails are wood, I should avoid that issue. I've used 'broken' props in the past, and then tend to add to the authenticity and creepiness of the the display, not detract from it.
 

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I don't have a place inside to store my new fencing, so it will need to survive outside all year between the garage and 'real' fence. I've had to do this with other fencing and props in the past. Most have survived well, and a year of weathering tends to add character to them. The big problem I've seen is when wood is left in contact with the ground. Since most of the fence is PVC and only the rails are wood, I should avoid that issue. I've used 'broken' props in the past, and then tend to add to the authenticity and creepiness of the the display, not detract from it.
I'm in the same boat, no real garage have a portable one, but with my race/show car in there and camping stuff and some other odds and ends not much room and now with the wind dragon in there really no room. My Halloween totes and skeletons that go out to the campground sat in the trailer al winter long and then had to just be outside in the spring. I bought another portable garage to replace the one I hav enow as snow as bent some pipes and cover is real fragile now and starting to go at the corners so going touse the old frame and cover it with tarps and or black plastic to store the halloween stuff.
 

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Followed you over here, Therewolf!

I finished building 72' of fencing just the other day. I still have to paint it all, and add the angle aluminum to fasten the sections together. I am going to try out some threaded softwood inserts and thumb screws to see if that will make setting up and tearing down easier, and so that I don't have to use wood screws to hold the sections together.

I have to say, investing in a proper PVC cutting tool made my life a bit easier during this build.

I will add another 72'+ next year, and more the year after that until I am able to fence the entirety of my front and side property, which is 146' in length, not including the run up the driveway and the edge at the back.

Now, on to building a column...I'm sure I'll be building more of those in the next couple of years!
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For a bit of context, I selected 1x2 furring strips at 8' lengths. Menards was offering them for like 94 cents each.

There are twelve pickets per fence section. The four tall ones are 3' - 8" in length, and the eight short ones are 3' - 4", and arranged as one tall then two short. The measurement between pickets is 8" on-center, except for the ones on the ends, which are 4" in on-center from the edge of the furring strip. In that way, I am guaranteeing that the fence looks uniform when fastened together.

I don't have a drill press (yet), so I just used my power drill with a 7/8" speed bore bit. Now, the thing I noticed that worked the best was to drill it about halfway through or until the tip of the bit pokes through the other side, then flip the board over and complete the drilling from there. The problem I had with the first few bores was that the wood was "tearing" once I drilled all the way through from one side. Flipping the board to finish the bore alleviated that. A pain in the rear, but we do what we can with what we have.

In hindsight, I probably should have painted the PVC first. However, I don't see it being a big deal.

I'm eager to see how the softwood inserts and thumb screws will perform. I'll probably get on that this weekend.
 

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Followed you over here, Therewolf!

I finished building 72' of fencing just the other day. I still have to paint it all, and add the angle aluminum to fasten the sections together. I am going to try out some threaded softwood inserts and thumb screws to see if that will make setting up and tearing down easier, and so that I don't have to use wood screws to hold the sections together.

I have to say, investing in a proper PVC cutting tool made my life a bit easier during this build.

I will add another 72'+ next year, and more the year after that until I am able to fence the entirety of my front and side property, which is 146' in length, not including the run up the driveway and the edge at the back.

Now, on to building a column...I'm sure I'll be building more of those in the next couple of years!
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I did not invest in the PVC cutter. Started with a regular pipe cutter, made clear even cuts but took forever. Switched to sawsall will hack blade. Went fast but not as clean, but nobody other than me will notice.
 

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Hello all! First timer on yard decorating this year! I managed to get my cemetery columns built over the weekend but I’m at a bit of a standstill. Any suggestions on painting methods to get these looking like stone?? Open to any suggestions! Thank you.
 

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Also, to add, I'm going a little simple with my cemetery fencing for this year. PVC pipes with chain. Could use some recommendations on how to link the chain to all the PVC pipes. I am rather clueless on how to get that done with it still looking relatively authentic. thank you in advance!
 

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Also, to add, I'm going a little simple with my cemetery fencing for this year. PVC pipes with chain. Could use some recommendations on how to link the chain to all the PVC pipes. I am rather clueless on how to get that done with it still looking relatively authentic. thank you in advance!
Need a little more information on your intent. Just PVC verticals with chain hanging between them? What is the chain made of?
I used a real tow chain with 2x2 posts. I just put a long screw on the back of the post and hung the chain on it, not attaching necessary. The thing was so heavy, it was not coming off easily. For a lighter chain, and with PVC, I would consider drilling two small holes and just looping a Zip tie through and attaching the chain that way. I love Zip ties for quick but strong holds. Then cut them off at the end of season. You can buy the cheap in bulk at hardware stores or Harbor freight.

You can see the Chain fence in front of my cemetery. I wrapped some purple lights on it for after dark.
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Need a little more information on your intent. Just PVC verticals with chain hanging between them? What is the chain made of?
I used a real tow chain with 2x2 posts. I just put a long screw on the back of the post and hung the chain on it, not attaching necessary. The thing was so heavy, it was not coming off easily. For a lighter chain, and with PVC, I would consider drilling two small holes and just looping a Zip tie through and attaching the chain that way. I love Zip ties for quick but strong holds. Then cut them off at the end of season. You can buy the cheap in bulk at hardware stores or Harbor freight.

You can see the Chain fence in front of my cemetery. I wrapped some purple lights on it for after dark.
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Of course, my apologies! Vertical PVC, I believe I got 1 1/2". The chain is plastic, small links, not too large.

Thank you
 

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You might have already made your order for finials, but Kingsmetals is another popular option. https://www.kingmetals.com/Home.aspx They have a sale going on for 15% off now until the 8th. Use the promo code LABOR during check out. We used them to buy ours and like the quality of the plastic finials.

Rebar becomes even more inexpensive if you buy it in the 10 foot lengths and cut it yourself. It's not that hard to do with a simple hacksaw, and it allows you to buy thicker rebar at less expensive prices. That for us is a win/win option as we use rebar out in our garden as well as our haunt. Bigger rebar is sturdier, and so far it's been easier to pull up out of the ground when we have to. Can't promise that's the case as our thinner rebar has been in the ground for years and I'm sure that has something to do with how hard it is to remove.

Real chain of a size large enough to show up in the dark can be a bit pricey, but right now our Dollar tree has larger plastic chain that I think is a four foot length on sale. We use it in a number of different spots in the haunt and with a bit of faux rust, it looks like the real thing. It's easy to join lengths together. We bought up a bunch of it when it came out the first year and then it disappeared. We'll probably buy more this year just in case we find another use for it. :)
 

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Hey everyone,

I'm going to make some more 1'x1'square corner-posts this year to allow for a more uniform appearance, but how did everyone join their segments of fence together into one unit?

-Stryker
"The body is but a coffin for the soul."

My fence is in 7ft sections. Each section is "hooked" to a 2'x'2 square wood post. Each post has an 18" hole drilled up from the bottom which then slides over a 36" rebar that is pounded into the ground. This solution has proven to be pretty stable over the month that the fence is up. Hope this helps...



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Of course, my apologies! Vertical PVC, I believe I got 1 1/2". The chain is plastic, small links, not too large.

Thank you
Thank you for the info. I would go with what I put in the other post. Drill 2 holes in the side of the PVC about 1/2" apart at the height you want to the chain to start. loop through a Zip tie and connect the chain that way. but there are plenty of other options.
 
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