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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I have been checking all my fog machines and getting timers for this year, but am unable to find a timer to work on the Lite F/X Constant Fog Machines 1200 watts. It has a five pin control connector. I bought an American DJ time remote and it was not compatible with the fog machine. Any thoughts?

The original controller works with a burst or constant on control. Should I just try and add more electric cable to the controller? Should I try and piece something together for a timer?

Thanks,

Jeff
 

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Hey there!

I've got the same fogger as you. I couldn't find a timer for it either so I hacked the remote so that I can control it with my Lightorama controllers, but still use the remote as well. If you want some pics on how I did it, let me know. I'll try and take some and get them posted for ya if you want.

-=coasterbp
 

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Coaster,

Yea, if you could post a few pics that would be great. If I can control it with a timer, that would really work well. But even if you could tell me a little about what you found in the wiring, that would help to.

I may just try and extend the original controller by 25-50 feet of cable.
 

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Ok, here goes. This is my first attempt at posting embedded pics, so if it doesn't work, I'll try again.


First, I wanted to know what pins on the remote were for the switch, since basically, I was going to be controlling a relay with my Lightorama kits, I just needed to know what the switch was on the remote. Using a multimeter, I found that the switch is connected to the outer two pins on the connector, as shown in this pic (hopefully)



Once I realized that it didn't matter what the pins were to me as I was simply going to be wiring another contact closure in parallel with the switch, I opened up the remote and did another continuity check on the solder joints to see where the switch was soldered onto the board. Once I found that out, I simply added my two leads to that same joint, and feed the wires out a new hole that I drilled out on the bottom of the remote.







That last pic is a bit blurry, but you see what I'm getting at...

Now, those two leads run into a box that has a 120 VAC relay in it. Those two leads connect to terminals 1 & 3 (the normally open relay contact closure). Then, on terminals 2 & 7 (the coil for the relay) is the standard 120VAC plug that will go to my Lightorama controller. So when I fire that channel on the controller, the relay closes the contacts and basically does the same thing that the switch does on the remote. Make sense?








I liked doing it this way because I can still use the remote as intended, but now I can also run it from my LOR controller as well.

I hope that this helps you out. If you have any further questions, I'lll try to help!

Good luck!

-=coasterbp
 

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Socket, relay and project box all came from Frys here in Vegas. I don't know if you have them where you are... if not, Radio Shack (I refuse to call it The Shack) will have everything you need there as well.

You just have to beat the cell phone sales guys out of the way to get to them now...

Enjoy.

-=coasterbp
 

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Nope, we don't have Fry's here. Radio Shack doesn't seem to have those panel mount sockets, I could only find solder terminals. I found a place nearby though, Arcade Electronics, that should have everything I need. Thanks for the great pics and tut. I've been wanting to do this since last year, just haven't had a chance. This certainly saved me some time.

-dgm
 

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Coasterbp,

I created my relay control box and wired it to the remote. I did the same continuity checks and my remote was wired exactly the same way as yours (you can't ever be too careful with 120V). Fired it up last night and it worked like a charm.

Thanks for the great tutorial! One more step complete for my pirate cannon.

-dgm
 
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