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When I took apart the receiver on the one that did have a channel label, the LEDs are surface mounted with a plastic lens that covers them. Those would be hard to hack for a light activated prop.

The two without channel labels that are on the same channel have the normal LEDs with wire leads. Would be great to be able to modify channels on those since they seem to be the newer model.
 

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I went to HF today looking for the 93068 model to answer a friend's questions. HF only had the 61910, I removed the battery covers (in store) but still could not find a channel number sticker on these. If you can send me a picture or two of the boards I'll see if I can locate something that would likely be the channel selector (if they still use them). As for the leds, if you can solder you should be able to remove a surface mount and place a couple small wires on the pads. Or if you have a multimeter find a place with a larger contact surface that connects to one side of the LED circuit, like power. Then you would only need to make one tiny (and 1 larger) connection to remote a leaded led to the other end of the wires to trigger your prop. If you want to send pictures use [email protected]
 

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I went to HF today looking for the 93068 model to answer a friend's questions. HF only had the 61910, I removed the battery covers (in store) but still could not find a channel number sticker on these. If you can send me a picture or two of the boards I'll see if I can locate something that would likely be the channel selector (if they still use them). As for the leds, if you can solder you should be able to remove a surface mount and place a couple small wires on the pads. Or if you have a multimeter find a place with a larger contact surface that connects to one side of the LED circuit, like power. Then you would only need to make one tiny (and 1 larger) connection to remote a leaded led to the other end of the wires to trigger your prop. If you want to send pictures use [email protected]
I sent some pictures of the internals of both units to your email. I appreciate any advice you have.
 

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I'll copy our discussion here for others.
It looks like the 93068 alert you have is on channel 3, with A0 and A1 bridged, A2 & A3 open.

These can be simply added up, any unbridged or open equal 0 as in:

A0 being bridged = 1, A1 = 2, A2 = 4, A3 =8

So A0 & A1 = channel 3. A1 & A3 = channel 10 (2+8).

If you melt a large blob of solder on to and completely covering LED2 (assuming middle led also flashes when triggered) you should be able to wipe it off the board while the blob is liquid. Make sure the gap between it's contact pads is clean of bridging after. If you think you will have trouble soldering to the tiny pad nearest to the white writing LED2, you can scrape off the LED2 writing and the green coating under it to make a larger bare solder pad.

This is the contact point you want to use as the pir signal to your controller, or a remote LED.
713966
 

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I don't think my soldering skills are that finely tuned. I'll probably just use this one to trigger a sound activated prop.

I'm likely going to return 1 of the other style ones I bought since it doesn't look like those will allow for easy channel modification.

HF does sell a battery powered motion activated light that I may try to use instead. That won't give me all the flexibility of having a transmitter and receiver but may work on a couple of props where I want the trigger pretty close to the prop.

Wish I had bought these things 2-3 years ago when they were they sold ones with multiple channels and easier to solder LEDs.
 

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I'm probably going to start by going to all the local HF stores to see what they have in stock. Might get lucky and they are currently on sale with coupon for $9.99.
 
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