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Does anyone know how the Chauvet 5 pin timers are wired? I am wondering if I can reuse my timer on another machine if I decide not to repair my Chauvet Hurricane 1300.
 

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How did this turn out? I am trying to find information about the pin out of the 5 pin din connector for the Chauvet foggers. I would like to wire my own motion activated senor. I will try to reverse engineer if necessary, but if someone has already done it. This information would be very helpful. If other controllers can be used with this fogger, I may be able to find info on their pin wiring.
 

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It's not as simple as just wiring in a motion detector, you'll need some type of controller and a relay in addition to the motion sensor. Wire the N.O. contacts of the relay to the same two wires that are connected to the green "manual" button of the timer, you'll probably have to open up the timer. Use a controller to energize the relay for the amount of time you want the fog to run. Use the motion detector to trigger the controller.
CAUTION: Some of the wiring inside the timer may be line voltage (120V) so if you are not experienced with this I would not advise doing it.
 

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Thanks. Yes, I plan to use an arduino with relay to trigger the fog machine (based on PIR motion sensor). However, I have not yet looked into which fogger remote pins in the din connection are used for closing the circuit and if I need to do something with the other pins.

The remote plugs into the fogger with a 5 pin din. perhaps I just close two pins and if works and not worry about other pins (not hook them up). However, I may need to hook up the other pins to get it functional.

Figuring out how to close the circuit should be as simple as a continuity tester while pressing the button, but I'm not sure determining how to use the other pins will be required to make it functional.
 

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If you can open up the timer, there should be room inside to install a small relay connected to the green "manual" button. Drill a small hole in the timer case to route the relay coil wires out to your arduino. Plug the timer into the fogger as normal. Turn off the timer function button and you are good to go. One thing to keep in mind though, the fogger may not trigger everytime the PIR goes off depending on if it is ready.
 

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Here is the pinout from the manual for a Chauvet Hurricane 1100 fogger which is the same as most of their other modern, non-DMX foggers:

Data pin configuration pin1(LED), pin2(control), pin3(+5V), pin4(ground), pin5(none), ground(none)

This doesn't provide much detail (such as whether LED and control are active high or low or how much current you can safely draw from the +5V line), but should help provide some detail for what you are seeing when you open up your remote. I have a Hurricane 1101 and the FC-M manual remote, but haven't had a chance to crack it open to confirm some of the signalling details yet.
 

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Setarcos & J-Man thanks for your help. I think am close. Not sure why I didn't first crack it open, but after reading your posts, I did. The inside is pretty simple like J-Man indicated. I have not made the custom cable and hooked it up to the Arduino, but this is what it looks like to me.

foggerJack.jpg

I am not a hardware expert and is the first schematic I made so hopefully this all makes sense. Since the current indicates if the fogger is ready, it should be easy to read through an Arduino. As J-Man says, a relay will also make it easy to trigger.

Hopefully this weekend I will make a cable and connect it to the Arduino. (I'd prefer not to modify the existing remote.)

I'll post an update when I have more details. Hopefully this is helpful to others.
 

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Thanks for the schematic threader!

This certainly looks plausible. It would appear that the control pin is internally pulled up, so it triggers when shorted to ground. Also, it would appear that there is an internal current limiting resistor on the "ready" LED line.

Since your reference voltage is 5V, just be careful of the voltages supported by your Arduino I/O pins (i.e. the Arduino DUE is 3.3V and would need a level shifter or some form of isolation to work with 5V).
 

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Thanks for your continued comments. I am new at this so thanks for explaining things. I had to find a program to even create the schematic. Lots of learning happening for me which makes this fun. There is a free program called Fritzing that I made the schematic with.

I hooked a volt meter directly to the fog machine where the red and green wires are and then where the blue and green wires are. In both cases, I see a max value of 3.67 volts when the fogger is ready and a drop to zero when it isn't ready. So I don't think there isn't a concern of frying the Arduino right? I think the Arduino can handle up to 5v without limiting input pin voltage? My thought was I can read the voltage through a pin. Since anything higher than 3v would be read as HIGH in Arduino, I can see the fogger is ready and then close the circuit when ready and I want to trigger it. I think I could also close the circuit with a transistor (cheaper) than using a relay.

While I am planning to read the pin to see when the fogger is ready, I'm not sure it really matters. If I want to trigger the fogger and it isn't ready, closing the circuit prematurely probably don't matter. It is like pressing the button before the LED is green.

Oh... and one more thing. There are two 5 pin female jacks on the back of the fogger. I am using the one marked wired. There is a second one that is marked wireless. Perhaps that has higher voltage or behaves differently.
 

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Before hooking it up, please ensure your model Arduino board can handle 5V input on an I/O pin. Per the Due product page:

Warning: Unlike other Arduino boards, the Arduino Due board runs at 3.3V. The maximum voltage that the I/O pins can tolerate is 3.3V. Providing higher voltages, like 5V to an I/O pin could damage the board.
If your Arduino can handle 5V, what you suggest (reading the "ready" LED line as a digital input) should work fine.

As for driving the control line low with a transistor, you probably want to find out how much current it needs to be able to handle to choose the appropriate component. You can do this with your DMM (ensure it is in current measurement mode first!) by putting the leads across either side of the switch (which will close the circuit)
 

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threader,
You are correct about the "ready" circuit, you can wire it to the Arduino if you like (assuming the voltage is OK) but it really isn't gonna matter. If the PIR triggers and the fogger isn't ready, no big deal, you just won't get any fog. If you use a small relay to turn on the fogger, no need to worry about voltages, the "fog on" circuit will be isolated from the Arduino.
 

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I got this working. I used an NPN transistor, an old 5pin din to PS2 adapter, and old mouse cable. I had all of these on hand and didn't need to purchase anything for this project.

I had it originally working with the relay. This worked fine, but then I figured I could try to make it cheaper and switched to the transistor.

I am currently using an Arduino Uno as the controller, but can switch this to the cheaper AtTiny. I currently have some timing logic triggering the smoke machine, but think I will switch to motion detection.

If someone is interested, I can write up the details. You could get this going for under $5 if you have some materials on hand. $10 if you need to buy everything.

Thanks for everyone's help.
 

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Hey all, I have a similar question about the 1300. I need to rig mine up to a switch, but don't have the remote anymore. It was hooked into a permanent installation and the remote cable was cut & spliced into a control setup, but everything was gutted some time back. I only have the 5 pin male end, looks like a midi cable to me. What needs to be closed to trigger fog? The manual button works fine, but I can't seem to get it to fire via jumping the control wire to either voltage or neutral. Suggestions or a diagram would be much appreciated. Thanks.
 

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Sorry, I didn't see your post until now. Maybe this is helpful for next year? Did you try connecting the blue and red wires from the diagram I provided in an earlier post (your colors may differ so look at the pins)? That should mimic the button on the remote.
 
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