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Discussion Starter #1
Was going to start making a cematary fence for our display. Got all the materials last weekend. 3/4" PVC (Gray so i dont have to use primer and cheaper than the white) 2" PVC for the posts, and 1 x 2 wood as the slates. Drilling slates for the tubes to slide through. Cut and marked out one slate and test drilled the drop.......OOPS to me there isnt enough wood left by the holes to be durable for many years......SOOOOOOOOOO going back to return the 3/4" for 1/2" PVC......Glad that over the years I learned to test run things rather than just start cutting and find out it dont work later.
 

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I use 3/4" for fence and 1" for gate. The last time I made fencing I ripped 2X4's on the table saw to make my strips 8' ft in length. The wood was stronger; less apt to break at the grain and 1 1/2" wide. I used three stripes per fence section for added strength. I believe it was actually cheaper than buying the warped strips that tend to break and split.
 

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Search fence toppers. They are plastic. Make sure you get large enough opening to fit over the outside of the 1/2" pipe.
3/4" should do. You can heat them up with a torch or heat gun and slip over the pipe end to install.
 

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Awesome I'll look into that. Kinda confused how that fence was built outta off in the picture lol. Doesn't look like he used any fittings or anything.


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I needed a gate at the stairs for the wine cellar. I could have welded one up from solid steel but I imagined someone slamming such a gate and it messing up someone's ankle or worse.. so i made it from 1/2 steel electrical conduit. I drilled holes and inserted 1/4inch threaded steel rods with short conduits between the uprights, carving a "V" in these short pieces to keep everything held together.
For points I took carpet foam, carved them pointy, stuck them down into the conduit .
I used a piece of scrap steel and cut out a large bird with wings drooping and pop-riveted this to the door up high, which made the whole construction Much stronger.
I bolted hinges to one end and bolted a large bolt lock at the other side, but anyone could reach between the bars from the inside and slide it open.
By using the conduit, it is rigid , more so than any plastic pipes would ever be, yet it is light enough that if someone swung it hard and fast it's impact would still be very minimal upon someone's foot or ankle.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Wow that's pvc in the fence? Where do u get the tops from for the top of the fence


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You can find the plastic finials online. I asm getting mine from www.kingmetals.com the have a good selection and only around 33 cents each if you buy 100+ which I did lol. And there are several fence building DIY here on the forum but i am going to be posting my tutorial once i get started......probably very similar to others on the forum.
 

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Cheap af wood. 4ft x 2in x .75in. The end posts are 1" PVC cut into 2 pieces one 37in one 3in held with a connector for the fence bit to rest on so they don't just slide down to the ground.. Skulls are the 2$ small skulls from Target. Fence held to end posts with zip ties.. I got the finials and swirly bits online at King Metals.



fence3.jpg
 

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Never thought of ping pong balls but I got my finales at king metal also. A 7/8 bit is the size you need for the 1/2' PVC holes. I use a brad nailer to secure the pipe to support structure (1x2s).
 

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I do admit the PVC does look great. It does require alot more work than a wood fence. Im building the wood fencing. Im
making 6 sections that are 8 feet wide as im covering 2 areas in front of my house that are 30 feet wide each. I was thinking
of going PVC but the finials are so expensive when I would have to use 100 of them. Adding stuff
like skulls to the fence is an added plus as well!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well the build is going great....really need to get a few pics. Fence runners are cut and drilled and i hole sawed the ends to match the 2" posts. Fence posts are all cut and painted. Have to finish painting all the runners and will be ready for assembly and then to make the entry way for it. Still thinking about what I want to do for that.
 

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I do admit the PVC does look great. It does require alot more work than a wood fence. Im building the wood fencing. Im
making 6 sections that are 8 feet wide as im covering 2 areas in front of my house that are 30 feet wide each. I was thinking
of going PVC but the finials are so expensive when I would have to use 100 of them. Adding stuff
like skulls to the fence is an added plus as well!
You're right--there are considerations for both kinds of fence. I made a wooden fence first using old pallets, and I've used it for a few years now. But this year, I'm planning to build a PVC fence. Apart from the look, which can be justified for either type, wooden fencing is heavy and hard to store. Right now, mine is just leaning against a real fence in my backyard. I'm planning on basing my new one on gr8johnson's design so I can store the pieces in the crawlspace above my garage (I am a bit concerned about strength, though). My young kids will be able to help me put it together each year, too. Another consideration for me is that we're planning to move to a more upscale neighborhood next year, and I think a faux-wrought iron PVC fence would probably be a bit more appropriate for that area. So there are good reasons to use either design.
 
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