Halloween Forum banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
320 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm planning on making some static props and stalkabouts for next season and I would like to make some realistic faces on them. I've seen countless tuts on using silicone caulking to make a mold, so I was wondering if I could make a small mask out of it. By small I mean the exposed part of an Gorilla's face or a Werewolf. I don't think that it would work on a pullover type mask. Not to mention that I don't think that I want to this type of mask against my skin anyways.

I'm mostly interested in a better look and longevity than latex for my props and stalkabouts. But would like to avoid the high price (and skill needed) to use the proper silicone materials. I could always go with cotton build up and latex layers. Has anyone tried anything like this?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
I did a rabbit mask (think Alice in Wonderland). Two problems with silicone caulk: 1) it takes forever to cure if you are building up anything thicker than about a quarter inch; 2) Paint and glue will not stick to it. On the plus side, it is durable and stretchy -- though it will tear, so avoid anything that punches holes in it, like thread or staples.

In hindsight, I would try mixing in pigments if you need color, and you can use a fresh layer of silicone as glue, if you want to try adding hair.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
397 Posts
so i used silicone caulk .. maybe it was latex silicone mix.. i dont recall... on a mask/head I did a while back.

My rocking chair grandpa.

http://www.halloweenforum.com/halloween-props/96580-cemetary-groundskeeper-rocking-chair-guy.html

for the next I basically hot glued tshirt fabric along the base of the skul and coated it with caulk to create a rubberized skin which actually worked out pretty well.

the ears and brows were done with caulk if i recall because i wanted to try to hand punch hair into the eyebrows.

issue with silicone is the smell obviously. you can use water on your hands with rubber gloves to work it but you'll find it is not really stiff enough to mold like clay.

the other issue is that, when uncured.. it sticks to everything.. when cured, it sticks to nothing. lol.so adding more later after it's cured isn't going to work well. if you want to build up, you'll need to do it while first layer is tacky.. but then you run into possibility of bottom layers not curing because air is required for curing.

hope this helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
320 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the input. And I really like your groundskeeper guy prop too. I appreciate your insights into working with silicone too. I'm thinking of sculpting a face, molding it then pouring in a thin layer of silicone into the mold. Then building it up layer by layer. I'm hoping this will solve the stickiness issues and the thin layers will hopefully allow them to dry. Do you think that this might work?

Skeletom, do you mean to say that you can't hair punch silicone caulk at all or just if it's too thick?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
397 Posts
Thanks.
I did that groundskeeper guy years ago. I've since tried my hand at proper latex mask making but for the one-off masks i'd need it's just too much effort.

http://www.halloweenforum.com/halloween-props/122931-first-try-latex-mask-making.html


I found this when looking at how to thin the silicone caulk... also, take heed to what it says about curing. adding the moisture is key. this is why some tutorials recommend literally washing the silicone in a bowl of water before using it as a mold material.

building layers is not really going to be an option because silicone isn't going to stick to cured silicone.. .unless maybe it's paintable silicone. you'll probably need to pour (or brush in) the silicone in one shot.

again, i'm only assuming based on what I know about silicone caulk from using it as a mold (not casting) material and around the house sealing my windows. :)

from the interweb searching for 'thinning silicone caulk'...

have done some experimenting with this, and I claim there are two tricks required for casting a large volume of silicone caulk.

The first trick is to find some way to introduce small amounts of moisture (water) into the whole volume uncured silicone, because some small amount of water is needed as part of the reaction which cures the silicone. If there are regions completely devoid of water, these will not cure, resulting in a volume that is cured on the outside, but uncured and squishy on the inside.

One way introduce small amounts of water into the entire volume of your mix, is to mix in a drop or two of acrylic paint. I have also read rumor of small amounts of glycerine (glycerol and water) used for this. One advantage of using a few drops of acrylic paint is that this provides a visual indicator for when you have the paint and caulk completely mixed.

The second trick, for the thinner, I have read of people using naptha, or xylene, and I have actually tried naptha, and it seemed to work, but of course it smelled terrible, like gasoline.

I am guessing that part of the magic with solvents like those, is that a lot of the solvent will just evaporate completely, and not become a permanent part of the cast.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
ghostninja, hair punch is probably okay, because it won't have a lot of tension on it. but threads will tend to cut through the material if they are pulled on hard, for instance if you try to sew elastic to it for a headband. I would suggest building the headband or other superstructure first and skin that with the wet silicone so it cures in place. That way you are not cutting the cured silicone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
320 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks SkeleTom. It sounds like it might work if I sculpt, mold and then try a "splash" type mold. But that is starting to sound like a lot of work for a one-off. I'm starting to lean back to cotton wadding buildup/latex and then finish it off by shooting balloon latex through my hobby spray gun.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top