The white board is most likely styrofoam. Good or bad depends on the application. I tried to spray paint a styrofoam wig head and it ended ip looking like a charred burn victim. With a coat of paint over it I could have made it look like stone.
If you want the stone look throw some sand (alot) in your bucket of paint and mix well and often, you will have drylok and have it pretty water proof. I have used foam coolers with drylok and you cant see the beads. But when you start carving the one you want to buy, those little beads go everywhere and the edges are not smooth like pink or blue foam.
Try locating a locating a local salvage supply store (Example: in Knoxville, Tn = "Rail Road Salvage") it's like a Big Lots for construction, They might have better prices on the foam you are looking for.
On a side note I have even seen GREEN foam board at the Home Deport ;-/ ???
Good luck and post images of your adventure in sculpting LOL.
We're building some structures for this year's haunt, and were planning to use this foam board as the base: View attachment 199388
Does anyone know if this is carveable, or if we should apply monster mud to create textures?
Hey SpiderWitch, I use the same boards as walls in my haunt. I skin over them with scene setter room rolls, stone wall for the outside and gothic mansion for the inside. I use gorilla tape around the edges and thin gorilla tape to tie them together. I have a 3" baseboard running along the bottom edge.
I also carved a tomb facade to cover my back gate that faces into our graveyard. Since the kids aren't getting to close to it, I had one of my builders paint it flat grey and do brick joints in flat black paint.
Pros; lightweight and stackable. Can be carved with a hot knife tool.
Issues; can't support much weight for hanging pics/props/etc., looks flat (2d), wind can blow them around pretty good.
Keep in mind that as you "scare" inside these walls your "victims" will be recoiling in horror and most likely run into these walls repeatedly. Foam would be great for a skin on a wall but most likely if you want a wall to last even one night you will need to build a wooden wall. Just my 2 cents.
With that being said you get a great texture on these types of foam with a torch as someone said before. I used this method on my backdrop foam mountains around xmas village. Also for more controllable melt you can use just a heat gun.
You can build very strong wooden walls without buying 3/4 or thicker sheets of wood. Sometimes a thin wall might be needed for various reasons. A thin wall of 1/4inch "Luan" held up well for me for many years because I loaded the reverse or inside framing areas with a lot of 2 by 2's mostly placed in the "Punch" and "Kick" areas.
Being open now in my 27th year I have never any of such walls broken. Placing a more substantial wall opposite of your scare-Zone helps maintain the property also.
I once bought a large quanity of very cheap, thin, hollow core doors (25cents each!) I made a maze from them , didn't expect then to last too long. After almost ten years only small portions of two of the doors had gotten broken.. but then I believe this also happens because of the way the house is designed and operated along with the fact that it actually is "My House" we live here.
"Respect" can (and should ) work both ways.
We try to keep any staggering, screaming drunks from getting in the door. If they fool us for awhile, but become a nuisance, we make them leave then for everyone's benefit, even theirs.
Thanks for the responses everyone!
We were looking into the acetone method for melting the mortar lines in, but haven't really decided if we're doing a stone wall look or a plastered look. In any event, it's not a load-bearing wall and it's not really a haunt- we're going to place a structure in front of the smaller garage door, which will be open and dressed to look like a catacomb (niches in the walls with dessicated corpses and a stone tomb in the center of the room). ToTs will enter through the "doors" and pass through a "broken" section to make their way up to the front door for the candy. The garage will be window-dressing, but nothing jumping or moving.
Well, Lord Nevermore went off to Lowes this morning and returned with a bunch of lumber and foam board and he's been outside all day. There was a bit of a- hiccup, shall we say- when he opted for 2x4 foam boards instead of 4x8...math has never been his strongest subject, and it failed him today when he determined that 4x8 was twice as big as 2x4 Many colorful phrases accompanied his discovery that it took four 2x4 sheets to equal one 4x8...fortunately, he had enough- but not enough to do both projects.
And now it appears there's a problem getting the foam to bond to the wood...heavy duty Liquid Nails isn't working, someone mentioned Great Stuff?
I know gorilla glue will bind anything. But does expand a bit, not nearly as much as great stuff though. I have also used glidden gripper, have to let it cure for 2 or more days (in my case since its so humid over here) for a really tight bond. But my fave is gorilla glue.
Thanks MM and Captpete- got the gorilla glue and he spent the rest of the day sawing lumber and assembling walls. We now have one wall completely finished and part of the front entrance, with the rest of the sides cut and waiting to be glued to the foam.
You're right Mindtrap- that was pretty much the extent of what we could do with it, or risk melting through. But we're going for a dressed stone look, so the level of detail will be acceptable. Wish we had the pink foam, but trying to bring this in under budget...
White foam is great, using a foam cutter helps with mess. SOmething I have done that I have not seen mentioned. If you lightly hit the whitefoam with a heat gun you actually change the texture and harden it. Much like you do with the blue foam, you just have to be careful to avoid destroying it.