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8,400 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Here's how I took a raw Boogedy form from Fright Theatre and made him ALIVE! er...I mean DEAD!

As usual, after a few days I won't be able to make any changes to this post. So, please go to my album section to see the latest edits and lessons learned: Halloween Forum - Terra's Album: Tutorial: Boogedy

I got the raw version of Boogedy from Fright Theatre. It comes with the built-in steel armature, foot plates, latex, webbing and chip brushes for $200 off their list price. Fright Theatre

With help from them I learned how to latex, corpse and paint him. This tutorial is also useful for just knowing how to latex anything, corpse skeletons and paint gruesome paint details. As a special bonus, I included how to make a Lazy Susan platform. No charge. heh.

Here is a video of Boogedy in action:


Here is a video of how Boogedy is pneumatically controlled:


Items Needed:

Raw Boogedy (comes with foot plates, chip brushes, spider webbing and 2 quarts of latex)
Disposable latex gloves
White acrylic paint
Large bottle black acrylic paint
Large bottle Chromium Oxide green acrylic paint (or an avocado green)
Raw Sienna acrylic paint (or golden brown)
Yellow oxide acrylic paint (or a saffron yellow)
16 oz. bottle Liquitex Gloss Varnish
20" x 12" plywood (if making Lazy Susan base)
20" x 24" plywood (if making Lazy Susan base)
Lazy Susan (if making Lazy Susan base)
8 #10 5/8 wood screws (if making Lazy Susan base)
Bottle of wine (motivator)

Equipment needed:

1" brush
Paint cups
Large paint jar
Airbrush or cheap pump sprayer ($2 at a crafts store)
Drill (if making Lazy Susan base)
Ruler (if making Lazy Susan base)
1/2" drill bit (if making Lazy Susan base)
9/64" drill bit (if making Lazy Susan base)

Picture 1: This is how Boogedy arrives from Fright Theatre.

Picture 2: This is how he looks on his foot plates.

Picture 3: Okay, now we start the fun. If you want, put a tarp down on the ground because this will get messy. Also, put on some old clothes and tie up your hair. If you get latex on your hair, it's pretty hard to get out. If you are careful, you don't get it all over the place but if you want to be extra sure, you could put some Vaseline on your hairy arms to help get any latex drops off your arms.

Notice the detail that was carved in the original sculpture. This is the direction you'll be applying the latex.

Put Boogedy down on the ground and prop up his legs. Prior to using the chip brush, pull on the bristles to get rid of any that are loose. You'll still have some get on Boogedy but not as much. The ones that do, just scrape them off with your fingernail prior to the latex drying. Put on the disposable gloves. Dip one of the chip brushes into the latex and paint his feet, bottom of pelvis and under his ribcage. As you are latexing, you might think that you are covering up all the details but you'll see that as it dries, it almost absorbs into the foam. Just avoid drips. Now, let dry. If it's breezy or you put him by a fan, he will dry much faster. Can take 2 hours to overnight to dry. Go ahead and throw away the chip brush, it's ruined now.

Optional Lazy Susan instructions:

Picture 1: Get your top and bottom platforms and Lazy Susan ready on your workbench.

Picture 2: Place the Lazy Susan (right side up) on the bottom platform. I placed mine on the left side so when the top platform is mounted it fits perfectly over one half of the bottom board. Mark where the center would be on the left side of the board. Now, as you look at the Lazy Susan you will notice that in one set of the corners there is a large hole with a tiny hole next to it. This is the one that we will be mounting the Lazy Susan onto the bottom platform. Mark with a pencil the four large hole positions on the bottom platform. Pre-drill with the 9/64 drill bit. Drill in four of the screws.

Picture 3: Turn the Lazy Susan so the other corners are opposite the mounted corners. Mark those holes on the wood. Move the corners of the Lazy Susan out of the way. Drill pilot holes and make sure you go all the way through the wood. Using the 1/2" drill bit, make larger holes where you just drilled the pilot holes. Move the corners of the Lazy Susan back so the corners are above and centered through the 1/2" hole.

Place the top platform upside-down on your workbench. Invert the bottom platform over that and line up (by looking through the 1/2" hole) where the lazy Susan touches the top platform. Mark with your pencil. Pre-drill the holes with the 9/64" drill bit. Now drill in the other 4 screws.

Picture 4: Attach the foot plates to the top platform. I used 1/2" wood screws.

Rest of latexing

Stand Boogedy on the foot plates. Move his arms (at the shoulders) so they are a little away from his body to make it easier to latex. I also bent his arms at the elbow a little. Spread his fingers apart. You'll be working from the head down but doing his arms last so you have something to grab onto. Because of his built-in steel armature, he wiggles and bends away as you paint so you'll usually be grabbing him to hold him steady.

Don your disposable gloves again, pull on the bristles of the chip brush and start at the head and begin latexing the rest of his body. Just brush on the latex like it was paint, just keep the detail as much as you can by following your brush strokes with the detail on his body.

As you latex, if you find the brush gets too clogged with dried latex, throw it away and grab a new one. Let dry overnight. Open bottle of wine and savor your first latexing job. Begin to conspire what other props you have that will benefit from a latex job. Muh ha ha haaaaa.....A new POWER!

By the way, if you made the Lazy Susan platform you will realize the benefits of being able to spin a prop around as you latex, corpse and paint them.


OK, if you thought latexing was a new power added to your prop building skills arsenal, wait until you learn how to corpse! By the way, this is really messy so make sure you got those old clothes and disposable gloves on.

Take the spider webbing out of the bag and uncoil it. Cut into 8" strips. Take a section and stretch it out a little and dip into the latex. Squeeze out some of the latex and stretch it out a little more. Drape it on Boogedy's back while continuing to stretch it out.

Now, grab another piece and do this again and continue to add corpsing to anyplace that was unsculpted. Now, move onto the rest of his body but just pick some sections to do this too. In some areas I really stretched the webbing thin. Just like when you normally drape webbing: Hook it on an edge and pull taut. You'll get the hang of it quickly.

Then I took smaller strands and put them in random places over his body (like they were tendons). Make some more stretched strands and have them hanging down at the elbows, behind his rib cage, in front of his ribcage, on his rib cage...anywhere you think it would look good.

Get your significant other to take a look at it for you. Have him (or her) tell you that it needs some more corpsing. After they leave, think they are crazy but try putting some more on anyway. And, darn it, it did look better. heh.

Let dry overnight again, fan helps. Drink more wine.


8,400 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·


You will need a lot of paint for this first stage. Because I used some leftover paint in a gel form that not a lot of people use, I will try to explain what color and thickness you are trying to attain, but I can't give you ratios. Sorry.

In the large paint jar, mix the green with black. Keep doing this until you get a black with a hint of green in it. Water this down until you get a consistency that will cover the latex but thin enough to get into the nooks and crannies as best as you can. Make about 12 ounces.

Put on some disposable gloves and pull the bristles on another chip brush. Brush and dab the paint all over him. As you can see, I used my fingers to help get the paint into the crevices and behind the corpsing. I would really suggest wearing some disposable gloves..... Let dry overnight.

As you can see, after it dries you will still see some spots you missed. This is where your airbrush or cheap pump sprayer comes in. Spray areas that you missed brushing. Let dry again.


Drybrushing is when you dip your brush in the paint and then brush it almost dry on a paper towel. Then you drybrush going ACROSS the detail. Not with the detail, across the detail. Boogedy will start to come alive with this technique.

Using your green, drybrush all over Boogedy going across the detail but start to miss some areas. If you look at the very first picture in this tutorial, you will see that the inside of his pelvis was skipped, eye sockets, inside his nose. This will help make him more 3D. This will dry more quickly so check it in about an hour and you can continue if dry. Or just let dry overnight again.

Now, lighten up your green with some white. Just enough to lighten it. Drybrush this on now. Miss even more areas, you don't want to cover up all your dark green. I started to skip between his ribs, under his ribcage and things like that.

Lighten up the raw sienna with some white. Drybrush this, again skipping some areas. You are focusing on the parts of Boogedy that extend out from his body. Things like his skull, bones and ribs. Let dry. More wine.

Lighten up the yellow oxide and drybrush in specific areas. This is an accent color. What I did was skip anyplace that had corpsing. I just focused on exposed bone. That helps give you the illusion that the corpsing is remnants of his skin. If you look at his feet you can see what I did easily. You can also see the effect on his arm, parts of his skull and on one side of his ribcage. Let dry

Final wash

This final wash will help blend in all of your colors. Darken the green with some of the black. Then thin out with a lot of water. Test to see if it's thin enough in a small spot on Boogedy. The paint should be like muddy water. You don't want to cover all of your hard work with a layer of paint. This is a wash step, not a paint step. If your mix is too thick, add more water.

With a really wet brush, start at the top of him and wash the paint down. There's a fine line with how much watery paint you want running down your prop. You don't want it puddling up in the crevices too much, it will lift off your previous paint colors. This is a bit tricky but don't worry too much. I made mine a little too runny and it lifted a bit of the paint off his toes. So, after he dried I came back in with a little more paint and repaired it. If you want, you can use the airbrush or pump sprayer to get any areas under the corpsing you missed. I didn't because my wash was a little too wet, but it did a great job of getting into the crevices (don't recommend my way) heh. Definitely more wine needed for this step. Totally let dry overnight.


In the picture is a flexible gloss varnish. This protects Boogedy somewhat, from UV and the elements. It also gives him a wet look and blends the colors even more. Basically, it makes him look juicy.

If you think latex is sticky when it dries on you, just try varnish! So, watch your hair or you will be watching TV that night picking it piece by tiny piece from your hair. Not that I was stupid enough to bump the top of my head into my wet Boogedy. Nooooo...

Anyways, put a bunch of varnish in a paint cup and starting at Boogedy's head, paint/dab the varnish all over him. I was pretty liberal with the varnish and I ended up using about 12 ounces. I liked the really wet look but you may want to be more reserved. It's up to you. Let dry overnight.

Note about varnish: When you get too vigorous brushing on varnish it likes to froth up. That is bad because it can dry frothed up and look cloudy far away. So, that is why you don't want to work it in too much with your brush. To help avoid missing spots and having to work it in with the brush too much, you want to be fairly liberal when you first apply the varnish. Also, don't go back over the wet varnish too much while it dries, it will froth up too.

Now that's he's all dry we can pose him! He has some really strong steel rods so I needed the hubby for this. Well, you are all done!

I want to give a super thank you to Steve at Fright Theatre for letting me do this. You wonderfully helped me out so much. You 'da MAN!

Thanks for looking at my tutorial.....

8,400 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks so much everyone :)

It's foam but I don't know what kind. It was poured into a mold if that helps. His back, back of his pelvis and back of his thigh bones are unfinished which is why it's important to corpse the back of him if he's not going to wear tattered clothes.

Hubby mentioned that he looks just like the greenish zombie's in the movie Heavy Metal (B-17 scene). Throw on a tattered combat uniform .....

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