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Ok, this is driving me nuts....I am in need of a "9 volt battery eliminator/adapter" to power a set of LED eyes controlled by a color changing / fading circuit...here's my dilemma - When the unit is powered by a 9 Volt battery, it works fine...BUT, when I try different 9 volt adapters (i.e. each having a different milliamp / amp rating), I get nothing, not even a flicker....so my question is, obviously this circuit requires exactly a 9 Volt battery to power itself (and must have some protection as to not get overpowered or underpowered), therefore, can anyone tell me what the mAH / amp rating is of a standard alkaline 9 Volt battery, so I can size an AC/DC adapter to use in its place? It sucks to all "royal hehaw" to have to keep replacing batteries for something so trivial....Ahhhgg....:eek:
 

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That seems too weird. Battery output fades over time, and it wouldn't make sense to have to replace the battery when it gets down to like 8.5 volts. I know you've already checked, but do you have the polarity correct on the wall adapter? Even if the adapter isn't an exact match for a battery, you should be getting some response.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks

Thanks Spinman....got it....

Otaku, the polarity was correct, even tried reversing just in case...I agree with you though...I went through 9 volt DC adapters everywhere from 200mA through 1.5 mA, with no response whatsoever...as soon as I put a 9 Volt battery on it, the unit came on...LOL...hilarious....some explanation of the unit - it was purchased from Denny at TerrorByDesign many years ago, and the circuit board is only 1 square inch, and is covered in some sort of water proof yellow gunk that prevents me from determining what components are on the board, except for a function push button which causes the unit to fade / change colors of the LEDs attached via wires to the board (2 of them)...Can't explain it...I will say that if I use a weak 9 volt battery, the unit doesn't come on either...must have to be a fresh new battery, and I was trying to avoid having to change batteries, as this unit needs to stay on for hours and hours.....thanks for suggestions...!:D
 

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Possibly silly suggestion, but might help... is the adapter you're using attached directly to the nine volt battery connections, or does it use a socket in the circuit? Maybe a bad connection on the socket that is solid on the battery leads??

Just an ill informed thought...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Good question...

Bilbo, not a silly question - the socket is soldered directly onto the board and the solder connections are covered with that yellow muck....I've tried connecting the bare-wires from the adapters directly to the socket (using alligator clips), and I've attached a 9volt connector from the adapters's bare wires to the socket also...reversed polarity, cleaned contacts, tried everything....it's like a spoiled rotten kid - will only do what it's told if it's given what it wants..and what it wants is a 9Volt battery.....LOL...:confused:
 

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Craig, I found a number for TBD - you could try calling and ask what's up with the circuit. The number is 630-830-9561. I also found this email: [email protected], but don't know if either of these contacts are still valid.
The only other thing I can think of is that the battery puts out a pretty steady voltage, and if you're using a non-regulated supply it may make a difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks...

Otaku, thanks but Terror By Design has been out of business for quite a few years, and the domain / company name has been purchased by DCProps who does not sell those units....The original Terror By Design was one of the first companies in the Haunt Industry to provide simple, yet powerful controllers for props, such as the Puppet Master, Puppet Master 3x and several PIC-based timers and audio solutions (very inexpensively)...I have personally purchased tons of their merchandise in the past, and Denny (the owner) had even offered to repair all of my timers I purchased from him that were destroyed by Hurricane Katrina....unfortunately, due to health reasons, he had to close his doors, and did not pass his designs onto anyone else....

Ahhh, but holy cow - Otaku, I think you may have nailed it, my friend - NONE of the power supplies were regulated!!!! That may be it (i.e. they were not delivering the steady voltage)!!!

THANKS to everyone - I'll try a regulated one and let you know how it goes!!!

:D:D:D:D:):):):)

Craig
 

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Actually, I called Sue (Denny's wife) once to see if I could get a copy of the instructions for my UDT II IR controller, and she kindly faxed me a copy. I think they're still trying to support their customers in whatever way they can. If you really get stuck, you could try calling and see if they can offer some advice.
 

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A few other things you might want to try...
1) Measure the voltage at the connector when the 9v batt is connected
2) Measure the voltage at the power supply before you connect it to the board, and...
3) Measure the voltage at the connector after connecting the power supply

This will give you an idea of what voltage the board 'likes', and how the circuit is affecting the power supply voltage (i.e.: if the current draw is pulling down the voltage or not).

- Hook
 

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One other thing - I've found that sockets and plugs are not universal in size (but you knew that). I had a problem getting a good connection on a socket recently, and found that if I bent the center pin in the socket slightly to one side, I got a solid connection. The barrel of the plug was too large to contact the pin. This might be why you're getting no response at all from the LED board.
 

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How long does your 9V last on this? That can indicated what kind of current draw your circuit places on the battery. Does this color changer use a micro processor (PIC)?
Is your walwort a regulated or unregulated 9V supply? If unregulated you could be putting too noisy of a signal to the PIC.

Make sure you walworts are DC and not AC since AC versions are out there.
I'm not sure what load your LED's and pic will place on the battery/supply but it should not be that high and I would think 7 volts would keep even the bluest two LED's glowing and you should get some light much lower (until forward voltage cut off of the led's).

If you have a volt meter let us know the readings you see at the walwort connected and not connecte to the circuit.


Ok, this is driving me nuts....I am in need of a "9 volt battery eliminator/adapter" to power a set of LED eyes controlled by a color changing / fading circuit...here's my dilemma - When the unit is powered by a 9 Volt battery, it works fine...BUT, when I try different 9 volt adapters (i.e. each having a different milliamp / amp rating), I get nothing, not even a flicker....so my question is, obviously this circuit requires exactly a 9 Volt battery to power itself (and must have some protection as to not get overpowered or underpowered), therefore, can anyone tell me what the mAH / amp rating is of a standard alkaline 9 Volt battery, so I can size an AC/DC adapter to use in its place? It sucks to all "royal hehaw" to have to keep replacing batteries for something so trivial....Ahhhgg....:eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
All

DC Adapters are being used...haven't measured voltages across points yet...cannot see any specs on the unit as it is covered in a yellow muck to keep it water proof...looks like it may be an 8 pin PIC on board, tho...It will run for hours maybe days with a 9 volt battery...my dilemma though, is that the unit is mounted on a 2 axis mechanism, and the motion tends to throw the battery about at times, plus the battery contributes a slight weight to the platform causing some timing issues...(it's a talking skull mounted on a 2 axis platform driven pneumatically, and the LED unit makes LED eyes change color and fade in/out)...and the LED unit does not have a power or shutoff button, thus draining the battery if I don't disconnect it. I will try to get some readings this weekend and let you guys know what I find...thanks for all the input!
 
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