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Media added by havok1919
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Hole drilled in the top of the hollow plastic candle.
havok1919
Oct 26, 2010
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Some test shots done with opaque plastic.
havok1919
Oct 26, 2010
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The silicone is pulled off the candle, leaving a flexible mold.
havok1919
Oct 26, 2010
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Candle removed from skull
havok1919
Oct 26, 2010
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The same silicone process used to make the skulls was applied to the candle
havok1919
Oct 26, 2010
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Real wax candles built up on skulls for making molds.
havok1919
Oct 26, 2010
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step14 first casting
havok1919
Oct 26, 2010
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skulls painting
havok1919
Oct 26, 2010
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step13 inverted mold
havok1919
Oct 26, 2010
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step12 support upgrades
havok1919
Oct 26, 2010
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step10 support shell
havok1919
Oct 26, 2010
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step8 final silicone
havok1919
Oct 26, 2010
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1
step7 building thickness
havok1919
Oct 26, 2010
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3
step6 silicone detail coat
havok1919
Oct 26, 2010
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step2 bondo and sanding
havok1919
Oct 25, 2010
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step1 $15 skull
havok1919
Oct 25, 2010
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Spraying makes short work of prepping base coats of latex on lots of skulls.
havok1919
Oct 25, 2010
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Plastic resin candle with 'run-off'. It just slips over the skulls-- that way if I can reuse the skulls for other purposes later...
havok1919
Oct 25, 2010
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Here's the LED candle on the skull
havok1919
Oct 25, 2010
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Various stages of painting the skulls. (Latex house paint overcoat, black airbrush shadow details, acrylic washes for tint and further shading.)
havok1919
Oct 25, 2010
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I front lit this one with a small white strobe.
havok1919
Nov 2, 2009
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...but with enough washes applied and some moss glued in place, it looks alright!
havok1919
Nov 2, 2009
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...and here we are at the "this looks stupid" phase.
havok1919
Nov 2, 2009
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Light colored parts are flexible foam-- about like a Nerf football in durometer (hardness), the darker sports are more rigid (harder than styrofoam)
havok1919
Nov 2, 2009
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Here's the foam in the plaster mold. Any little imperfections during molding end up looking like tombstone damage-- perfect!
havok1919
Nov 2, 2009
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