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Last year we did a 3D haunted house with Chromadepth glasses and UV reactive paint-- so I had picture frames painted white. I had to undo that...

Last year we did a 3D haunted house with Chromadepth glasses and UV reactive paint-- so I had picture frames painted white. I had to undo that...

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This is the finished piece. I used it to make a silicone mold to overmold on to the meta shaft of an arcade game joystick.

This is the finished piece. I used it to make a silicone mold to overmold on to the meta shaft of an arcade game joystick.

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In the "because I can" category... I took 3D data for a human femur, hollowed it out and printed it on a Form1 3D printer...

In the "because I can" category... I took 3D data for a human femur, hollowed it out and printed it on a Form1 3D printer...

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Finished off with dilute bright orange streaks and highlights.

Finished off with dilute bright orange streaks and highlights.

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Sponged on a thin wash of dark earth paint.

Sponged on a thin wash of dark earth paint.

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Airbrushed on 'rust' paint.

Airbrushed on 'rust' paint.

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Base coat of drylok with a little sand in it plus some orange acrylic paint to tint it.

Base coat of drylok with a little sand in it plus some orange acrylic paint to tint it.

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One old, kinda beat up coin door.

One old, kinda beat up coin door.

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Wet washes and details painted on in black-- later I went over it with an airbrush with black and dark earth for more weathering.

Wet washes and details painted on in black-- later I went over it with an airbrush with black and dark earth for more weathering.

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Started out with the drylok+joint compound+acrylic paint 'monster-mud' base coat. (Took about three applications to hide the colors and stickers.)

Started out with the drylok+joint compound+acrylic paint 'monster-mud' base coat. (Took about three applications to hide the colors and stickers.)

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"Sideart" as it's described in arcade-lingo. Printed at the local Walgreems on canvas.

"Sideart" as it's described in arcade-lingo. Printed at the local Walgreems on canvas.

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The rust and weathering-- rust was sealed with 'matte' acrylic sealer to stand up to handling, looked more 'real' when it didn't have any sheen though

The rust and weathering-- rust was sealed with 'matte' acrylic sealer to stand up to handling, looked more 'real' when it didn't have any sheen though

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Detail of the control panel area.

Detail of the control panel area.

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The full Splatterhouse arcade game with everything put together

The full Splatterhouse arcade game with everything put together

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I painted up an opaque plastic candle to see how it looked-- I like the look, but the glow from the translucent candle is too hard to pass up.

I painted up an opaque plastic candle to see how it looked-- I like the look, but the glow from the translucent candle is too hard to pass up.

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The translucent plastic makes a *very* realistic looking candle!

The translucent plastic makes a *very* realistic looking candle!

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Instead of opaque plastic, I tinted the same Colormatch 325 plastic red and used that.

Instead of opaque plastic, I tinted the same Colormatch 325 plastic red and used that.

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Makes a very candle-like effect.

Makes a very candle-like effect.

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Lit up!

Lit up!

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Hot glue attaches the flame to the candle base.

Hot glue attaches the flame to the candle base.

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LEDs shining through the flames illuminate nicely

LEDs shining through the flames illuminate nicely

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Transparent resin (Smooht-On ClearCast Colormatch 325) was poured in to the mold to make flames.

Transparent resin (Smooht-On ClearCast Colormatch 325) was poured in to the mold to make flames.

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Another silicone mold was made from the baked 'flame' shapes.

Another silicone mold was made from the baked 'flame' shapes.

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To make plastic 'flames' I rolled out some Sculpy clay shapes and baked 'em in the oven.

To make plastic 'flames' I rolled out some Sculpy clay shapes and baked 'em in the oven.

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And a warm white LED is inserted inside.

And a warm white LED is inserted inside.

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