Thread: Painting ChromaDepth 3D Wall Panels

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This tutorial is one of three tutorials showing how to make a 3D ChromaDepth section for your haunt. The other two tutorials are (currently being written):

• Designing 3D ChromaDepth
• Building Haunt Wall Panels

Well, here is Painting ChromaDepth 3D Wall Panels:










Following, is a general outline covering what was in the video along with additional details:




These pictures were designed in Photoshop. The theme this year was inspired by the movie Terminator: Salvation.

A tip is to search for ideas in comic books. They are perfect for ChromaDepth illusions. They have lots of action and are bordered in black. Using Photoshop or a similar program, take bits of the art and mash around on a new background until the picture looks right to you. Finally, work up a ChromaDepth color scheme that makes them pop under the 3D ChromaDepth glasses.

Here's a quick slide show showing the creation of one of the .jpgs in Photoshop: http://s228.photobucket.com/albums/e...tacksnakes.flv

As you can tell, I went back several times and remade some stuff. For example, I realized I needed a background to give me depth, so I added the barrels. Also, the forward robot-snake needed to be redder. When you are deciding on ChromaDepth, be sure to have the glasses on to see the changes.



In the picture above, you'll notice a B&W version of the .jpg that was created. It is loaded onto a computer which is attached to a projector.










Project the image onto your wall panel. This will help you transfer the design easily.

If you are using fabric (or landscape fabric like what's being used here) the image must be primed with gesso first. Artists prime fabric canvases so their expensive pigment paint doesn't get sucked into the fabric. You use gesso to stop that. Plus, white gesso is a perfect background color for fluorescent paint. It helps make it pop and you'll use less.

The gesso I'm using is a recipe I made up. It's not a real gesso mix but it's works good enough for me. Generally, it's 1 gallon of Sculpt or Coat, 1 1/2 gallons of cheap ceiling latex paint plus a tube of white acrylic to pump up the white (I'm still tweaking this recipe). When painting, use a 1" flat brush for large areas and a 1/2" brush for tight spots. You just paint any light that's on the canvas with gesso.













After the first coat of gesso dries, do a second coat. One coat won't be enough. Here you see the coverage a second coat gives you.













For the third coat of gesso you will need to Photoshop that B&W .jpg a bit. Expand the subject area with more white. This allows you to have subtle color shading show without sacrificing the detail lines in it. You will still be able to make it out. Project the new B&W .jpg onto the wall panel and do a third coat of gesso.

It is now ready for fluorescent paint.












This step is called 'color-blocking'. Just like coloring books, you are simply painting in the colors from the drawing you made. It will take several coats depending on the fluorescent paint you use and the ratio of thinning for your airbrush. You will generally do 3 to 4 coats.

I use WildFire fluorescent paint thinned down with a ratio of 50% paint/35% Illustration Base/15% water. At times, I found this ratio too thick and so was watered down even more. This all depends on the type of air brush and air pressure you use.













Here you will be airbrushing black lines and shading. Look for the hints of lines left behind from the third gesso coat and airbrush in with black. Sometimes it will be hard to see the hints and you will be referring to your jpg image. Also look for the shadings you had in the .jpg image and duplicate that.

I used regular black airbrush paint without thinning for this step.













Final step. Have all of your paintbrush colors ready and the black. Begin to blend and add other colors that you haven't been able to do thus far. You will be referring heavily to your .jpg image for this. Under black light and wearing the 3D glasses keep adding colors and shadings until it starts to match your design. Though a challenging step, it's also very fun to see the dramatic changes you will be doing here.















TADA! You are done and ready to terrify your ToTs. Time to drink some celebratory wine. whew!

The depth you created using the blue paint is really nice! Great Job Terra! I've always wondered how to do Chromadepth painting before. I suppose that the red is the closest and the blue is the farthest away...Is this right?

This effect can even be taken farther with a dot-room like effect. or even projection effects. Cool. I'll have to look into chromadepth a little more. Are you using any UV lights on the paint?

Awesome job !

Thanks Bobzilla!

Originally Posted by Eyegor

The depth you created using the blue paint is really nice! Great Job Terra! I've always wondered how to do ChromaDepth painting before. I suppose that the red is the closest and the blue is the farthest away...Is this right?

This effect can even be taken farther with a dot-room like effect. or even projection effects. Cool. I'll have to look into ChromaDepth a little more. Are you using any UV lights on the paint?

Thank you

Yes, red seems to hover two feet in front of the panel and blue appears to back two feet behind the panel. The effect really knocks you for a loop. Also, yes I am using UV lights much of the time I'm painting.

EXCELLENT!!!
Thanks

pushing the "like" button ! Great Job Miss Terra!

wow! And wow on your stick-to-it-ness, that had to take a lot of time. Would love to see it in person.

There were chromadepth glasses in the paper today (for a verizon ad), so now I can finally appreciate your work! This is such a cool effect!
The ad in the paper was kinda sorta 3D if you're looking for it, but I think you've really got it down, Terra

WOW! Your work is amazing. You make the airbrushing look so easy. (ha! I've tried it and you've got serious skills)

So glad everyone likes the panels and I appreciate all the compliments