Thread: Fogger Timer/Prop Timer Hack

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Woohoo I got it!

I've never worked with relays, but I've been wanting to due to some other projects waiting until after Halloween (a thermostatic cooling fan on a classic car for example). For those that haven't played with one, here's how it works (Any experts around please correct me if I'm wrong): The relay has a coil that operates a switch when power is applied closing a circuit (electromagnetic I think). Mine has two circuits (DP - Dual Pole) that can be opened or closed (DT - Dual Throw). Below is the diagram off the package for the one I got at Radio Shack. A switched power (like a motion sensor bulb circuit) will close the normally open circuit allowing current to flow through (just like the switches on the controllers).

I haven't configured it for a final layout, so excuse the sloppiness but here is how I got it to work:
1) Solder up two jumpers/leads from the back of the "Manual" button on the timer. I didn't even take the circuit board out of the case, just looked at it and figured out which ones.
2) Plug those two leads into the relay across the NC and O poles on the same circuit per the previous diagrams posted above. (Although I'm seeing a connection between the C and coil which I didn't do - Why is that there?)
3) Attach 120v source to coil side of relay. I used an old lamp cord plugged into a light bulb-to-socket adapter which was plugged into a motion sensor on an outdoor box.

Again this is just with everything on the ground with bad lighting and not cleaned up. The clear light bulb in the other socket of the motion sensor is just so I can be sure it is triggering.
Attachment 92769

@ Big B Regarding your question (Although I'm seeing a connection between the C and coil which I didn't do - Why is that there?)
The common to coil jumper is where the others are getting the 120 volt source. You however look like you are picking it up threw the orange cord you have connected to the motion sensor and there for do not need the jumper. Your version is still using the controller’s factory cable to control the fogger. Note the other versions in this thread are just to control external props without controlling the fogger. Hope that answers your?
I like your version of this hack. By not cutting the controllors cable it still lets you control the fogger that’s very cool!

Hmmm. I think I get what you are saying, maybe I'll mess with it some more to figure out how to do that. Yes, the coil is getting power from the motion sensor.

The controller still works exactly as intended, so with some proper mounting hiding all the live connections (maybe to a project box) you can have the controller with timer and manual control, and a sort of motion sensor override. I also have one of the wireless controllers available - If I have time tonight I'm going to open it up and see if I can do the same thing.

Either way I think I've strayed/derailed this discussion too much from what the original purpose of this thread. Sorry about that. Hopefully what I did helps though. My hack probably fits better over here.

I believe you can buy a Y adaptor that would tie in between the factory cord and the fogger. I would be a C13 to C14 splitter cable with which you would not need to even open up the controller or do any soldering. I think it would make a very clean job of it you would simply cut the third leg off the Y adaptor (I would install the cable and relay in a weather proof box) crimp on female spades like you did using the wire colors that correspond with your controller brand. Not all foggers are wired the same so be very careful with this I know this will work on mine but my fogger is no longer produced.

I have this timer and it is not working for my 400 WAtt fog machines the green light looks like its shorting out, I have this timer below Im good with electronics and soldering just need to confirm which wires need to be switch on the board below is the pics of the timer I have.