I am in the process of finishing up my "Bucky in a cage" and, as a last effort, i figured i would give him a little more "depth" by giving him some Light Emitting Diode eyes. Here is the process i used on both of my Buckies, Sr. AND Junior.
Firstly you will need the following items.....
2-LED's (standard from just about any Radio Shack or Electronics supply) and any size you wish as long as they fit in Bucky's eye sockets.
1- 300-330 ohm resistor (again, from an electronics supply)
1-mini lever switch SPST (single pole, single throw) Radio Shack etc.
1-9V battery snap
soldering iron, electronics grade solder, wire snips.....
[IMG][/IMG]
Open Bucky's skull (no, you don't have to be a surgeon) and plan where you will pass the LED's through the eye sockets and into the empty head area. On my Life-sized Bucky there was actually a small channel molded into the eye socket that passed easily through into the head so i didn't have to drill a small hole in each eye socket for the LED's. On my small Bucky, i did in fact have to drill small holes to accommodate the LED's but the holes were barely noticeable and, if you decide to remove the LED's at a future date, no harm done really. (see picture(s))
The next hole you will have to drill is, through an inconspicuous spot at the back of Bucky's head where the switch will be mounted, this is so you will not have to keep opening and closing Bucky's cranium to disconnect the 9V battery every time you want to shut him off. Again, a hole just large enough to accommodate your switch will suffice (see picture(s)).
Next, we will pass the LED's through the eye sockets and solder them to the resistor. It is important that you understand at the very least that LED's have two legs or wires coming out of them and one of these "legs" is a slight bit longer than the other. One is called the anode or the positive leg and the other, the cathode or the negative leg. Make note that, if your LED does not work after connecting it is either burned out or you have connected it improperly and, most importantly DO NOT CONNECT YOUR LED DIRECTLY TO YOUR BATTERY.....it will burn out and become useless. LED's must be limited by the use of a resistor to bring the voltage within tolerances. (more information on LED's Light-emitting diode - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia )
Here is a great, simple wiring diagram for LED's i found on this site..http://www.kickthefog.com/LED%20eyes.jpg
Next, after passing the LED's wires through the skull, we prepare to solder up the resistor from one anode to another cathode (see diagram) If you have even basic soldering skills then this will be a snap, if you don't, please, find someone who does and let them do it for you, i don't want anyone getting burned and i can't stress this enough. Once the wiring is done, the next step is to attach your 9V battery clip. Again, fairly easy. The positive lead (+ red wire) goes to the long leg of one LED and the negative lead (- black wire). Once done, and provided everything is correct and no wires are shorting out (please carefully check your wiring/soldering) then you can connect your 9V battery and Bucky's eyes should illuminate. If they don't, go back over the schematic and compare it to your actual job.
Finally, we have to connect the SPST switch to the whole thing to turn Bucky on and off. Take the red or + positive wire that leads to your battery pack and snip it roughly in the middle, that is, cut the wire. Next, take your switch and connect one piece of the wire to one of the outer most connectors on the switch and solder in place. The other loose red wire goes to the center pole or connector of the switch (see picture(s)). Solder everything in place and pass your switch through the hole we made in Bucky's skull and bolt it in place. Once done, reconnect your 9V battery, close up Bucky's head and give it a test to see if everything works ok, we should have a success.
The very last thing i did was to secure Bucky's new LED eyes in place with a dab of hot melt glue. In my small Bucky i engulfed the LED's in place with a lot of glue to make his eyes look more "ghoulish" and milky (see picture(s)) and you tell me how he looks!
Again, please be careful when working with soldering guns and cutters and take the appropriate precautions and......best of luck and HAPPY HAUNTING.......'Scruff
P.S. I have posted more pictures on my profile if you are interested.
Thread: L.E.D. eyes for Bucky
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L.E.D. eyes for Bucky –
09-29-2008,10:07 AM
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09-30-2008,07:15 AM
Great tutorial...
Adding to your information, here is a short vid of what can be done with the clear eyeballs from MrSkeleton.com
have a great season,
Jeff @ MrSkeleton.com
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DCTdE5i7ewg]YouTube - Eyeballs for human skull -- back-lit feature[/ame]MrSkeleton.com is your complete skeleton & prop resource providing affordable, anatomically accurate reproduction models and accessories to the professional haunters industry, studio prop craftsmen trade, prop houses, catalog & online web retailers, and theme, entertainment and amusement parks. info@mrskeleton.com
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09-30-2008,08:05 AM
Thanks Jeff, very helpful addition!
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10-01-2008,05:02 AM
I think these are the ones he used.Half way down the page.
Mr Skeleton - Your resource for Bucky's best props and accessoriesBe polite. Be professional. But, have a plan to kill everyone you meet.
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10-04-2008,10:53 AM
As a replacement fer the 9v battery, ye can power th' LED's from th' servo power leads if ye be doin' th 3-axis thing tha' many be doin' (tha' wot I did 'mate). Ya still be needin' th' limiting resistor ta limit th' current goin' ta th' LEDs. Switch can still be added ta turn th' eyes off if desired, or jus' wire th' LEDs(thru th' resistor) right ta th' servo power leads, savvy?
Capt. Jack's YouTube 3-axis skull video page
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10-04-2008,03:02 PM
Thanks Cap'n. Next year is in my budget to do a 3-axis Bucky skull, i'm gonna start in the new year i think. When i do, i'm gonna go all out on Bucky's head and figure out an eye movement and lighting platform(like the Skull from those "other guys"). I'm really excited about the prospect because, along with pneumatics, i want Bucky's coffin to shudder, shake and smoke, then the lid will fly open and Bucky will sit bolt upright and his head will move and go into some sort of diatribe. This is my Holy Grail of effects for next year as it were.
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10-04-2008,03:16 PM
Aye Scruffy,
Yer Bucky pop-up really be soundin' like a wonderful prop ta try. Good luck wit' it! I 'adn't thot o' usin' glue gun ta secure th' LEDs in place, wasnt sure 'ow ta do it.. 'avin' th' 5vdc power come up th' Cat5 cable be makin' it easy ta tap off of fer th' leds, bu' usin' a battery means not 'avin' ta unwrap th' servo leads ta tap.. 'ave ye figured 'ow long th' battery be lastin'? If ye 'as a 5v-9vdc wallwart, thar be yer power too.Capt. Jack's YouTube 3-axis skull video page
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10-04-2008,04:01 PM
I used this configuration on my Bucky Sr. Last year and the 9V battery lasted all evening (4-6 Hrs) without a problem or loss. I actually have the same battery from last year and plan to use it again this year as well.
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04-13-2009,02:20 PM
Hello,
I would like to use A/C power to light up 2 buckys on a sign that will have flashing red leds for eyes. Are there any tutorials out there? I can solder but my electrical wiring knowledge is a little limited.



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