Thread: air compressor filter placement

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where should an air filter go?
I think I remember reading that it should go as close to the prop as possible.

So if I put it at the end of the air line. can I used quick connect parts comming out of the filter to connect to the prop?

It is best to have a water trap filter as close to the item being powered,this way you collect condensation just before enters cyl, air gn,etc. I usually run one right out of the comp exit line (all with quick disconnects) & smaller round ones that i use for my paint guns at the items air entrance. You can get these at auto paint supply stores. I like to keep as much moisture from entering line after comp & then 1 down line at end by prop,paint gun,etc to keep it clean & dry.
The small round ones are tossed after a number of uses,some even have a "wet" meter strip so you know when they're need changing. & Q change ends help a lot, i use them on all my air cyl props for connect/disconnect ease.Costs a little extra,but i buy them at disc bulk.

I picked up a "mini general purpose filter from Huskey.

It says
22-scfm flow capacity @ 90psi inlet. 5 psi pressure drop.
64scfm max flow capacity @90psi inlet.

Can someone translate this? I was going to use it for the ghost bust blaster. My test before getting the filter was done at 100 psi.
Will this work? just need to up the psi by 5?

That mini filters flow is a min of 22 cfm (cubic feet per minute) at 90 psi
The 5 psi drop,gives you 85 psi with the filter at highest flow.
65 is the most cfm you can move through that filter at 90 (85) psi
These figures are for "ground rules" pending what you are trying to power. & are mostly used for air tools & paint guns.
As for the 100 psi you were running your prop, pending if you are using real cyl & flow regs & speed reg & speed controllers, 100 is a little much.
More like 45-65 psi, & if you are using the filter you are not really going to push 100 thru it...... & you can't really make up the 5 psi.....
If you are using real cyl, they have min & max cfm & psi ratings so as not to damage or blow out seal at too high a pressure, or properly operate at the lowest psi
should find they're ratings.
& if ya using screen door cyl, NO 100 PSI.....please......unless ya want some real flesh to add to your display,...LOL

I am using it for the ghost bust. at a certain point in the routine it fires air and water.
I was concerned when I heard it required up to 120 psi.
So I did a few tests. Starting at about 60 psi Standing at about 3-4 ft.
Could barely feel it so I went up to 100 psi
not forcefull at all. No moving parts, just air.
I thought I read somewhere that this filter can be used up to 150 psi.
I'll double check.
I am not sure if I even need a filter for this application.

The filter keeps any water & particles from entering cyl & wearing it out a little sooner, but not all that necessary. Just make sure what the filters psi tops out at.
Wouldn't want to explode it from over psi. haven't seen that happen,but never exceed psi limits. Sounds like your 100-120 psi ok if your using the real stuff cyl wise.

what do you mean:
Sounds like your 100-120 psi ok if your using the real stuff cyl wise

I only use a filter if Im painting, in over 20yrs my compressor, plus my dad's compressor rebuilding cars and what not, never an issue

-PB

Ditto on Propboy comment, you only need a filter for painting. Don't worry about one for running props, it's not necessary.

Originally Posted by icemanfred

what do you mean:
Sounds like your 100-120 psi ok if your using the real stuff cyl wise

If you are just using comp air for an air canon or spitter,then the hi pressure ok,& no filter is necassary. if you are using real pneumatic cylinders to operate a prop, or screen door opener type air /pneumatic cyl. then pressure is a concern,hopefully not using a screen door cly.