Thread: New DMX-controlled prop interface

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Originally Posted by Hooked_on_Scares

JPettis,
I haven't started wiring up the scene at our haunt yet. However, my friend has used a bunch of these 12V coil, 10A @ 120V contact SPDT relays with good results. These are kinda nice, because they've got the terminal blocks built-in. For another option, check out the ones markgoodson linked to in his post above. Aside from these two, Just about any DC mechanical relay will work, and many SSRs as well. Selection is mostly a matter of convenience vs. price. PCB mount relays are cheap, but hard to get wires on to. Socketed relays will be more expensive, but easier to wire to.

Calloween,
I've done testing with the Enttec Pro, Enttec Open, and Velleman units. However, DMX is a standard, and the Medusa was designed to work with any conforming stream. Are you looking at using LOR?

- Hook

Yes lor if i can

shadowopal,
There are a few DMX-controlled mp3 players, but they're $200+. Many people around here use VSA to run their animated shows. In this case, your computer is the source of the sound and it's automatically sync'd to the rest of the events. Also, I believe VSA supports playing multiple sound files through multiple audio cards, so you could add a USB sound adaptor for $25 if you needed more channels of audio.

Regarding standalone playback, Medusa is strictly a DMX-controlled board, so it won't play back performances on its own. There are some options out there, including the RAPU from Brookshire. However, it seems to me that the prices of computers (netbooks in particular) have dropped so much, that it makes more sense to buy one of these than a purpose-built show recorder. My $0.02.

To run a DMX system from your computer, you'll need a short USB cable, a USB-to-DMX adaptor (e.g.: Enttec Open), and a DMX cable. If you're looking for the shortest path to getting up and running with a Medusa, pick up a DMX cable from Guitar Center, and cut one of the ends off of it. CAT5/6 cable is also a perfectly viable alternative, but you'll have to solder an XLR connector to the Enttec side of it.

DMX is based on a 'differential' signal, and is capable of running really (really) long distances without data loss. This is in contrast to USB (~15') or normal serial (~25' or so). I use DMX control at our haunt with ~150' run, but its capable of much more.

Hope this helps out
- Hook

Calloween,
Unfortunately, I don't have an LOR iDMX1000 to test/develop with. But there shouldn't be any problem. If you decided to use a Medusa this year, and it didn't work with LOR (yet), I'd be happy to take the unit back and refund you price + shipping both ways.

- Hook

Originally Posted by Hooked_on_Scares

shadowopal,
There are a few DMX-controlled mp3 players, but they're $200+. Many people around here use VSA to run their animated shows. In this case, your computer is the source of the sound and it's automatically sync'd to the rest of the events. Also, I believe VSA supports playing multiple sound files through multiple audio cards, so you could add a USB sound adaptor for $25 if you needed more channels of audio.


- Hook

Do you have more info or a link for the USB sound adapter you spoke of?

Thanks

I've been using this one to connect a laptop to my stereo system for watching hulu tv shows. Has worked pretty well so far.

- Hook

Originally Posted by Hooked_on_Scares

shadowopal,
There are a few DMX-controlled mp3 players, but they're $200+. Many people around here use VSA to run their animated shows. In this case, your computer is the source of the sound and it's automatically sync'd to the rest of the events. Also, I believe VSA supports playing multiple sound files through multiple audio cards, so you could add a USB sound adaptor for $25 if you needed more channels of audio.

Regarding standalone playback, Medusa is strictly a DMX-controlled board, so it won't play back performances on its own. There are some options out there, including the RAPU from Brookshire. However, it seems to me that the prices of computers (netbooks in particular) have dropped so much, that it makes more sense to buy one of these than a purpose-built show recorder. My $0.02.

To run a DMX system from your computer, you'll need a short USB cable, a USB-to-DMX adaptor (e.g.: Enttec Open), and a DMX cable. If you're looking for the shortest path to getting up and running with a Medusa, pick up a DMX cable from Guitar Center, and cut one of the ends off of it. CAT5/6 cable is also a perfectly viable alternative, but you'll have to solder an XLR connector to the Enttec side of it.

DMX is based on a 'differential' signal, and is capable of running really (really) long distances without data loss. This is in contrast to USB (~15') or normal serial (~25' or so). I use DMX control at our haunt with ~150' run, but its capable of much more.

Hope this helps out
- Hook

Very helpful! Thanks much. I will be very interested in these boards after the season if you will be offering them. Just trying to figure out audio as I'm trying to make this work for my yard which I'm thinking I may just have to split up the boards instead of trying to use one. It's a terrific board. Just trying to make the best use of it .

Where can we buy the medusa?

I am very interested in doing this for next year. Probably 3 or so of these boards. However i had a quwstion after looking over the manual. (very easy to understand) the leds switching. in the diagram It shows the power seperate from the board. I assume that this power can be any voltage? (i.e. if the baord is ran at 6v i could still run the power to the LEDs at 12v) My second question (also led related) is you have the limiting resistors on the + side i always thought the resistors for led limiting should be on the - side of the circuit?

I am also interested.

Still have more than 30 days to Halloween.......

Where can we buy the medusa?

I am also interested.

Still have more than 30 days to Halloween.......

Unfortunately, I don't have a site up for automatic purchase, and this won't be changing before Halloween. (I am still planning to add one, though) If you'd like to pick one up, just PM me, and I'll give you my PayPal address.

I assume that this power can be any voltage? (i.e. if the baord is ran at 6v i could still run the power to the LEDs at 12v)

Yes, supplies can be different, and 6v / 12v is fine. There's a max voltage for the LED output device. See page 1 of the manual for the limit.

i always thought the resistors for led limiting should be on the - side of the circuit?

This is a simple question with a complex answer, so I'll give the short, pat answer, and a longer attempt at an explanation.

Short answer:
It doesn't matter where it is, as long as it's in the circuit for only one string of LEDs (don't tie two strings together, and then use only one resistor for both of 'em)

Long answer:
Amps is the unit for current. Ohms is the unit for resistance. Volts is the unit for........... Potential Difference! (this must be a trivia answer somewhere) Voltage is always a difference in electrical potential. If you start at 10V and you jump down to 0V, it's the same 'Potential Difference' as starting at 100V and jumping down to 90V.

The resistor is setting the voltage that the LED sees. If the LED is at the 'bottom', it has 0V below it, and ~1.5V above it. If it's at the 'top', it has 12V above it, and ~10.5V below it. In either case, it has 1.5V across it. From the LED's perspective, it has no idea which is the case.

Hope this helps
- Hook