Are PVC easy to use when building a prop? which kinds of PVC should I buy to make a prop? has anybody done a PVC prop before? I need PVC tutorial.
Thread: PVC issues
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PVC issues –
03-08-2009,01:16 PM
Where Hinges creek in doorless chambers... And where strange and Frightening sounds Echo...through the halls... Whenever candlelights flicker... where the air is DEATHLY STILL... that is the time when GHOSTS are present... Practicing their terror, with GOULISH DELIGHT...
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Has anybody done the scare FX witch before? –
03-08-2009,01:17 PM
1. was it easy and cheap to build her? 2. How long did it take?
Where Hinges creek in doorless chambers... And where strange and Frightening sounds Echo...through the halls... Whenever candlelights flicker... where the air is DEATHLY STILL... that is the time when GHOSTS are present... Practicing their terror, with GOULISH DELIGHT...
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03-08-2009,05:39 PM
pvc is very easy to work with and it's cheap
you would need a pvc cleaner$3
pvc glue$3
90 deg elbo's are like 45 cents a peice...what kinda of prop are you thing of doing?
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03-08-2009,07:03 PM
I build most of my props with pvc I like it becuase you can use a wood saw fine tooth,hack saw,most any saw to cut it.there are elbows 45 90 T X and you can heat it and bend it ,you can buy it almost anywhere and you have a choice to glue it or like I do use wood screws to hold it together or it will kinda stay together with just the fittings.And it's cheap.and almost any prop you can make with wood or alumium can be made with PVC "be realistic".
James Mc Guire
Haunted Prop Supply
(Hauntedpropsupply.com) Your Halloween prop making supplier for the Pro or home haunter!
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Zombie
- Join Date
- Aug 2006
- Posts
- 11
03-16-2009,11:56 AM
I agree with everything that's been said and would add that using the thicker walled (schedule 40) is definitely the way to go. I've built things using the thinner walled 3/4" pvc and it barely stood up under its own weight- after adding a costume and padding, the figure wobbled and bent in unwanted ways... scrapped it and changed out for the thicker walled pvc and had no problems. Might want to spring for a hand held pvc cutter ($3-$5), much easier and cleaner than using a hacksaw.
jpsavini

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03-16-2009,12:06 PM
I second the recommendation on the PVC cutting tool. It saved me a ton of time on my PVC characters. Harbor Freight sells the ratcheting pipe cutter for $4.
Get a bunch of 45 and 90 degree elbows and some T-fittings, and start piecing it together. You can use your own body for measurements, and scale it in either direction.
To secure your figure, pound long rebar into the ground and slide the pvc legs over it. It's very sturdy. My Davy Jones prop was built on a PVC frame with bubble wrap and pool noodles to fill it out.
$15 worth of materials can get you a lifesize frame to work with.
Good luck!
-dgm
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03-16-2009,01:13 PM
I use a jigsaw to cut the pvc. It's a lot faster, but not as acurate.
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Werewolf
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
- Location
- Central Florida
- Posts
- 75
03-16-2009,01:41 PM
You might also consider using schedule 80 PVC if your prop is exceptionally heavy. It's usually found in the electrical section of Home Depot and Lowes. It's more expensive, but worth it if the extra rigidity is needed.
Mark
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Zombie
- Join Date
- Aug 2006
- Posts
- 11
03-16-2009,02:03 PM
Chop saw is also great to use especially if you have alot to cut to the same length. The cut itself is as clean, but the saw will spray pvc 'bits' all over the place. The ratcheting hand cutter leaves no 'bits', but if you're doing a hundred pcs to build a fence out of- you're better off with the chopsaw.
jpsavini




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