Hello,
I got my scary terry board for my jaw moving skull, it's a bucky skull; my question is how do folks mount the board what do you use?do you mount it inside the skull or outside? Also the info with the board says 5-24VDC I have handy a 12VDC 500ma wallwart, can I use that or should I dig up a 5vdc 500ma?
Thread: scary terry board
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scary terry board –
02-21-2009,10:28 PM
James Mc Guire
Haunted Prop Supply
(Hauntedpropsupply.com) Your Halloween prop making supplier for the Pro or home haunter!
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02-22-2009,08:54 AM
I don't mount it at all-- I just set the board in there and dremeled out a little slot in the back where the lids meet up for the power and audio lines to go in.
Not sure if there's anything wrong with 12vdc. I ran mine on 6vdc.
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02-22-2009,09:04 AM
I do the sme thing Mr. Chicken does, just set the board in the skull and notch the edge of the lid to let the wires in. I'm using a 5VDC regulated supply, but it's just because it was laying around the bench.
I...have many names...
Dark Alessa
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02-23-2009,06:18 AM
I put the board in the skull too, but I bought some standoffs at radio shack to make it more secure. Only needed two for each board, and I mounted it vertically to the side of the skull.
-dgm
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02-23-2009,09:01 AM
I don't mount my board inside the skull. I use two 6VDC/300mA and one 6VDC/500mA wallwarts with both the ST100 and ST200. I used to use a 12V/500mA wallwart (with the ST100), but the board quickly heated up. I asked Carl about this, and he said he usually recommends a wallwart with 9VDC or 12VDC and 500mA (sold on his website) because the servo can surge that high.
Experiment with both 6V and 12V and see which gives the board and servo the best performance.
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02-23-2009,01:06 PM
I'll try the 12 I just wanted to make sure I wasn't going to fry the board that would be spendy.I do have other wallwarts of diffrent vdc but this one was handy so i wondered.and I had thought the boards where mounted in the skull learned something.thanks guys.
James Mc Guire
Haunted Prop Supply
(Hauntedpropsupply.com) Your Halloween prop making supplier for the Pro or home haunter!
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02-23-2009,06:20 PM
The 12 Volts isn't the problem if the board says 5-24V.
You won't fry it if there isn't enough current, If it doesn't work just look for one with more amps.- Brad
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Haunt at Red Clover
Parker, Colorado
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02-24-2009,09:14 AM
So is there any advanage to using more Volts than min. if all the board is running is the two LED eyes,one servo,and line in-line out audio? I know with a motor add more volts it runs faster less it runs slower but here I would think it would just be about how much to make it work? Next question is I don't see a connection for a trigger so does that mean the trigger is run by power supplied to it? The trigger turns on the power the power runs the board? if so any one have some detailed photos,how to's,links to run this.I know how to make the trigger,have some drawings of making a timer, then what happens? since I live out here in the fields...(hear the song when you read that?) and my radio shack is a cell phone store I have to by on online or go to the city once a month so need to plan.
James Mc Guire
Haunted Prop Supply
(Hauntedpropsupply.com) Your Halloween prop making supplier for the Pro or home haunter!
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02-24-2009,02:48 PM
The "trigger" for the board is the audio signal itself; the board is always under power. It converts the audio to a PWM signal for the servo, and sends pulsed voltage to the LEDs (if used), as well as the higher voltage outputs for stuff like solenoids, lights etc. Keep in mind that the audio doesn't need to be a vocal track. You can use modulated sounds of any type to activate the outputs. I use a "hidden" track of beeps to run the servo so that I can detail the jaw motion, and send the actual voice track to the speakers. Of course, you need a method of triggering the MP3, CD, ISD or other sound player.
I...have many names...
Dark Alessa



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