Thread: Interesting Chauvet Hurricane 1250 observations

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Yea those Kill-A-Watts are pretty darn accurate. You can not argue that at all and I can testify to that. You are right there is not valid reason why it should be running less then its advertised capacity. Some reason they are and why this is I am curious about as well.

Reason I mentioned trying a different outlet is I have seen in cases where outlets not draw the full rated voltage would could limit the machine from pulling its full draw.

Well, from memory... my Kill-a-watt registered a solid 110 volts. But, I'll check on that.

Originally Posted by Texan78

Reason I mentioned trying a different outlet is I have seen in cases where outlets not draw the full rated voltage would could limit the machine from pulling its full draw.

Originally Posted by dqderrick

Well, from memory... my Kill-a-watt registered a solid 110 volts. But, I'll check on that.

That is what I am saying, I have seen in some cases where an outlet not provide a full 110 or even 120 it might just draw less. It is very rare but it could show a sign in a faulty outlet.

Oh...I wonder if it would draw 1200w if switched to 240v?

Ok I just tested one of my foggers. I used my Martin Pro Magnum in this test which is a 1700 watt fogger. The label on the back says 1700 watts and rated at 14.6 amps. Now when it was heating it averaged around 1600 watts and at 13.5 amps. As soon the heater warmed up and was ready to fog it dropped to 5 watts and with the pump running it was 12 watts. So the wattage was comes into play when the heater is on and going through its cycle.

Originally Posted by Texan78

That is what I am saying, I have seen in some cases where an outlet not provide a full 110 or even 120 it might just draw less. It is very rare but it could show a sign in a faulty outlet.

Incorrect. If a 800w device (fogger, space heater, whatever) doesn't get 120v, it makes up for it in current. It WILL draw 800w regardless if it's 105v or 125v.

IE, 800w / 105v = 7.61A

800w / 125v = 6.4A

This is why higher voltage for things like lighting, motors, etc is so advantageous. 440v requires a significantly smaller gauge wire than say a 120v device pulling the same wattage.

Can you get water from a rock too?

I am aware of the formula watts divided by volts gives you amps. I am not sure what point you are trying to make since it really doesn't make much sense, but I think you completely misunderstood what I was trying to say.

Can you get water from Iraq too?

I think he was as much addressing my comment as yours. So the formula helps us non-EE types to understand the relationship of watts, amps, and volts. So switching to 240v would reduce the amp draw by half, but the power would still be 800w.

However, you did say "I have seen in cases where outlets not draw the full rated voltage would could limit the machine from pulling its full draw." One might infer that you meant not pulling the full draw is why the wattage is lower. But Brandon was helping us understand that if the voltage is lower, the machine will pull more amps to make the power (unless a breaker trips).

Nah he was talking to me because he had quoted me. By theory and math that is correct but not in reality.

If want he is saying is correct then you could power a 1700 watt machine off 20 volts and that is not possible. By his theory that would create 40 amps, but it doesn't work that way. Certain devices need a certain supply of power in order to run. Your AC being the perfect example as well as a dryer and a washer. You cut that in half that device will not pull the full draw. Which is why I said it can sometimes show signs of faulty outlet or circuit.

When talking about a resistive load, Brandon is correct.