Reply To Thread
Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 21
  1. Collapse Details
    What's the best styrofoam?
    #1
    13mummy's Avatar
    13mummy is offline Halloween AA Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Winnipeg, MB, Canada
    Posts
    1,125
    Blog Entries
    1


    I'm planning on building some cemetary columns this year. Which type of styrofoam do you think is the best kind to use. I have used both the pink insulation, and the white styrofoam for tombstones. I find the white stuff takes paint better, and the pink it mostly runs (using spray can paint). What is your suggestions?
    Reply With Quote
     

  2. Collapse Details
    #2
    wilbret's Avatar
    wilbret is offline Grand Poobah
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    USA.
    Posts
    2,816
    Blue foam is thinner and might be better suited for your purposes, available at Lowe's for half the price of the pink stuff.

    I like the pink stuff for tombstones, etc... although I noticed today it is priced at almost $26/sheet here.

    I cannot stand the mess that the white styrofoam makes with all the little pellets. I prefer the extruded pink or blue stuff. I have not had a problem with running, although I have resorted to painting with a brush and not spray. I had no issue previously using spray paint and a little fleck stone on it. Try peeling off the plastic sheet first and see if it helps.
    Reply With Quote
     

  3. Collapse Details
    #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Frederick, Maryland
    Posts
    87
    Wilbret is right... and the blue also comes in thicker sizes.

    Before you buy it, go scout some of the construction sites in your area. They use a lot of the thick 2" to 3" foam (especially commercial buildings), and if you're willing to chat them up or do a little dumpster diving, they are often throwing away chunks of perfect size. You could laminate them together in layers to make nice thick blocks to carve up.

    Prior to painting either the pink or blue, pick up a spray-can of laquer-based "sanding sealer" (NOT the full-strength laquer coat) and give the surface a very fine mist of the stuff. Go easy... it tends to eat into the foam if you apply it too strong. A couple of coats will seal the pores of the foam and allow you to paint it just like soft wood.

    EDIT/P.S. - have you thought about concrete column/pier form tubes? Quikcrete sells 12" by ??" cardboard tubes at H.D. and Lowe's that you could wrap with thinner sheets of foam. Check 'em out.
    "I'm not just going to hell...
    I'm helping to build it."
    -Self quote to brother-in-law
    Reply With Quote
     

  4. Collapse Details
    #4
    RookieSpooker's Avatar
    RookieSpooker is offline SuperBeast
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Statesboro, GA.
    Posts
    1,624
    A roll-on latex primer will also help.
    Reply With Quote
     

  5. Collapse Details
    #5
    Crypt Keeper's Avatar
    Crypt Keeper is offline The Great Pumpkin
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Thornhill, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    159
    I have traditionally used the pink and blue foam, which comes in standard thickness which is generally available up to 2" at your local hardware store. I also notice that the white styro is WAY cheaper where i am, the differance between 3 dollars a sheet and 17 for the pink ! both for 1" thick!

    I'm going to venture into the world of foam sculpture to create a piece and I've been told by many professionals to use the white foam. They say for sculpting its way easier because you can more easily use woodworking tools on it, and it reacts better then the pink/blue.

    I was also given a couple tips, to age the foam a bit more, a heat gun 3-4" away over the entire surface and a wire brush! Do some experimenting! When using heat make sure you are in a WELL ventilated area , the fumes produced may be toxic!

    As for painting, a lot of sprays deteriorate the foam boards.

    Its best to use interior or exterior latex, rolled on or applied with an appropriate spray gun.


    If your pieces are planning on getting a lot of wear and tear (weather and or traffic) you can also look into coating them with a foam coating or a thin later of masonry Sub Coat. I have yet to try this but the words come from a seasoned professional !



    Anyone else have any ideas for distressing the foam? Finishings? Faux Finishes? Lets here um!
    - The Crypt Keeper

    Be Afraid. You never know whats lurking around the next corner.

    http://www.62hauntington.com
    Reply With Quote
     

  6. Collapse Details
    #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Frederick, Maryland
    Posts
    87
    Quote Originally Posted by Crypt Keeper View Post
    I'm going to venture into the world of foam sculpture to create a piece and I've been told by many professionals to use the white foam. They say for sculpting its way easier because you can more easily use woodworking tools on it, and it reacts better then the pink/blue.
    Hand tools, yes. Power tools, no! I know from experience that the puffy beads in standard white styro will not allow sawing, routing, or any other high-speed cutting tool to work without rips, tears and blow-outs (not to mention the statically charged beanbag-chair stuffing that results in lieu of sawdust).

    Quote Originally Posted by Crypt Keeper View Post
    As for painting, a lot of sprays deteriorate the foam boards.
    Its best to use interior or exterior latex, rolled on or applied with an appropriate spray gun.
    Agreed... a water-based spray is best, but that would involve renting/buying a vacuum-powered HVLP sprayer at least. Auto body primer works, as long as it's applied lightly in several coats. I've used the sanding sealer and auto sealer on foam before, and as long as you're very gentle with it, it works fine (and you don't lose the texture like you would with a heavy coat of primer). The idea here is to close-up the porous surface without melting it or losing detail.

    P.S. You should know this already, 13Mummy, but I'll say it anyway... DO NOT use a water or oil-based sealer/primer under a laquer-based paint! It will melt right into the basecoat! The base of your paint should be the same as the base of your sealer/primer.
    "I'm not just going to hell...
    I'm helping to build it."
    -Self quote to brother-in-law
    Reply With Quote
     

  7. Collapse Details
    #7
    Dark Star's Avatar
    Dark Star is offline Keeper of Lost Souls
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Mesa, Arizona
    Posts
    12,893
    I use an electric knife on white foamboard. Very little foam ball dust.
    For small things a use a hot wire foam cutter.
    Reply With Quote
     

  8. Collapse Details
    #8
    13mummy's Avatar
    13mummy is offline Halloween AA Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Winnipeg, MB, Canada
    Posts
    1,125
    Blog Entries
    1
    Now I'm even more confused, both arguments for either styrofoam are good ones.

    I have a few more questions for you guys. Since it is acrylic paints that doen't eat through the styrofoam, do they sell it in cans or only in spray cans?

    Next question: What is the best way to cut large peices of styrofoam, if you don't have a table saw?
    Reply With Quote
     

  9. Collapse Details
    #9
    13mummy's Avatar
    13mummy is offline Halloween AA Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Winnipeg, MB, Canada
    Posts
    1,125
    Blog Entries
    1
    Darkstar have you used an electric knife on a long straight cut?
    Reply With Quote
     

  10. Collapse Details
    #10
    LV Scott T's Avatar
    LV Scott T is offline STARK Raving Mad
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Las Vegas! Okay, Henderson, actually.
    Posts
    915
    Quote Originally Posted by DooBeeDooBeeDoo View Post
    Hand tools, yes. Power tools, no! I know from experience that the puffy beads in standard white styro will not allow sawing, routing, or any other high-speed cutting tool to work without rips, tears and blow-outs (not to mention the statically charged beanbag-chair stuffing that results in lieu of sawdust).
    Well, DooBeeEtc, I hate to break it to ya, but I use a regular power Black & Decker jigsaw to cut my 2" panels with practically NO crumble or mess. The secret? Use a dull blade. Cut some steel pipe with a "wood" blade until the teeth are nothing but nubs. You can now cut perfect 90 degree cuts in 2" styrofoam with no mess, and it cuts cleaner than an electric knife.

    Oh, and I also use a router to do all of my engravings on my headstones. Lots of dust, but, again, no crumble.
    "Well I guess they were wrong then, weren't they?" I-gor
    http://www.starkmadness.com/photos
    Reply With Quote
     

Reply To Thread
Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts