Thread: Axworthy preview

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It may be a factor, but if the line is heavy you probably just need to compensate for it with a tensioner and you may also want the helper pulleys. Describe your system to me, how many turns, angle of turns, distance between pulleys, speed and weight of ghost.

Weight and speed are huge factors in AFGs!

So is SLACK!

the slower the speed, the more difficult to keep the line on track
the heavier the ghost, the more tension and pull down from slack

Also, if you do not have guide pulleys, being dead on level is critical!

One last thing, try to not cheap out on the construction, wood and aluminum contraction will flex and cause more head-aches.
I have switched to steel square tube this year, huge difference!

Counterweights...you will need about 10 cinderblocks to have a remotely practical counterweight, dont bother.

Persoanlly I use steel 1/16" cable, an almost 4# ghost and run it at a few feet per minute speed with a hi torque AC gear reduction motor.

I will try to post pics after we put it back up this weekend or early next week (installing a nen mausoleum for the FCG that no longer has trees to be in!.)

Partsman, I scrolled back to see what type of line you were using and I'd say rubber coated 1/8 inch steel cable might be a little overkill, unless your ghost is in a cable car. Just kidding... Did you use the rubber coating to help with traction? I don't think it's necessary. If you have a heavy ghost then you probably would be better with the 1/16 " cable like Corey. Corey, do you use the helper pulley and is your cable 1/16 "braided stainless steel?

Originally Posted by compoast

.... If you have a heavy ghost then you probably would be better with the 1/16 " cable like Corey. Corey, do you use the helper pulley and is your cable 1/16 "braided stainless steel?

Spiral wound plain steel cable. Can be bought at HD, but I buy it from a boat and industrial dock supply house a lot cheaper.

Used helpers in the past, caused more trouble because I didnt solder a helper 'J' hanger to the line. I skipped them this time.

Yes I did use the rubber coated cable for traction, I wanted to originally use coated picture frame wire, but I had trouble finding a 100' roll of it I reallt didn't want to start out using something as heavey as I am. My set up consists of Three bicycle rims one mounted to a tree on a wooden a frame that can support me hanging from it without flexing and one mounted to the side of the house on the same type of "A" frame and a third rim mounted on a steel tube pole with an "A" frame made of the same material. The motor I'm using is a 3 speep ceiling fan that actually has a lot of torque, and the ghost itself is actually based on a FCG ghost, and onle weighs about 4#. The problem that I'm having is the cable slipping off of the rims as the ghost comes up to it, and a lot of bounce after the ghost gets around the rims and helpers. What I don't have is counter weights or tensioners. Do you guys think I should scape the heavey line for something much lighter and maybe get rid of the helpers and add a counter weight. Mind you at this point the whole set up is mounted in my back yard now at head level so I can work the bugs out with out climbing a ladder every time this thing falls apart.

I would try the 1/16" line. Also tilting the wheel slightly to compensate for the line sagging on the pickup side of a wheel may help.
http://www.scaredy-cat.com/images/afg/tree1detail.jpg
I am just learning this stuff and only use light line and ghosts so you probably want to go the way of Corey's setup.

Partsman, do you operate your own skilift business as well? Those specs are insane Would love to see a video/pictures.

Hi compoast, it's been a while, but I'm finally coming back to this project now that the warm weather is finally here. I was wondering how you attached the bow roller to the shaft of the motor your using




And also, you'll be pleased to know that I've finally found a source for 1/6" cable to use, so the whole thing will be much lighter.
Thanks
~Harvey~

ok, if you look closely at the picture you see a shaft coming out of the motor. That shaft is threaded so I attached a square piece of 1/8 inch aluminum to it and bolted it on. Then I used four spacers and four bolts to attach a second plate spaced about 1" from the first plate. The second plate, before it was connected with the four bolts had a 1/2 inch bolt thru the middle of the plate, down thru the bow roller and then a lock nut on the bottom of the bow roller. If you can see it, the shaft from the motor and the bolt thru the bow roller do not touch, they are not connected thats why the whole setup with the plates. A much easier way would be to put a coupling nut on the motor shaft and then just bolt the roller to it but I had to work with what I had. However if your motor shaft is just smooth, well, then, a, do something else...

Thanks Compoast, I guess I'll have to ...um..ahh..do something else then because I bought a Dayton smooth shaft motor, but I'll figure something out.