Thread: My 3 axis skull...in progress

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I have been following your work, and I was wondering what happen to the pic's in the post. number #79. The work you are doing is so cool. Good Luck.

I see all the pics in post #79. Try refreshing your page.

My wife took a picture of me working in my makeshift workshop. My basement.

Here's what it looks like so far:



Just me and my friends hanging out. I am busy tweaking and adjusting VSA commands.

HB, I'm building my skull with a threaded rod not tapered. Do you think it's necessary to use a spacer also on the underside of the rod end between the bolt holding it in place?

I think I do need a spacer. When I tighten the bolt underneath the rod end I don't get as much range of motion as when I loosen it up a bit. I think that the beveled spaced will make the difference.

Yes, that's the whole reason for the tapering. To give you more range of motion.

Terrific How-to, there Bob...I wonder though...could you use two beveled spacers back to back instead of machining a bevel into the rod itself? Also, what is the outer diameter of the rod, both the large and the thinner end?

Sorry Bob, Its was this computer for some reason it will not load the pic's But I did see them on another computer, GREAT WORK. BTW nice work area. I wish i had a basement.

Where do you get beveled spacers? I just got back from 2 hardware stores and looking at the McMaster-Carr Web and can't find any. And I thought McMasters had everything. Is this something that you had machined also? Or maybe called something different? I have some nylon spacers that if I can't find any might have to try shaving off to work. Thanks for your help!

Yes, the central rod and beveled spacers were machined by my friend with the machine shop. There may be something like that out there, but I had them made.

I also need to note that I am having some trouble with alignment after modifying the skulld to mount the rod ends on. You have to be sure that the top of the central rod is centered between all the servos. All servo linkage bars need to be at 90 degree angles from each other and from the central rod, or they will all start working against each other.

I find it will involve a bit of tweaking before I get right.