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    Valve description guide, how-to on pneumatic props
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    SkeletalRemains's Avatar
    SkeletalRemains is offline The Great Pumpkin
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    OK, I am putting this in a new thread, that way everyone can get to it easier. The other thread that I have been putting this information into is here: So you want to build a pneumatic prop?

    This is just a guide I am working on that shows a lot of info on valves. I will add more (as I can) to take more mystery out of prop-building for newcomers. Please let me know if anyone has questions!

    Also, I would love your comments on this! Please let me know if this helps you! If anyone has information that contradicts what is in my guide, please let me know so we can make sure it is correct!







    "I have more pressures than ANY of you! Have you ever tried replacing a cockroach's blood with Root Beer?"
    "You know I haven't!"
    "Then don't judge me!"

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    Bucky's Avatar
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    Excellent post. Very good information and the visuals are also very helpful. I know understand all the aspects I was assuming I understood.

    However on a 4 port, 4 way valve couldn't you put a needle valve between the cylinder and solenoid on the return flow (yellow line) and choke down on the return pressure so that it would return slower? Or even put a regulator there to adjust the setting that would slow down the return? That shouldn't be expensive to do.

    Would that hurt the solenoid?
    Regards,

    Bucky
    Just another 4th rate Skeleton
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    SkeletalRemains's Avatar
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    Hey Bucky,

    When you choke down on the yellow line, it chokes both ways. When the valve activates, air is rushing back through the yellow line out of the exhaust port on the valve, and a needle valve would slow it down on activation and deactivation.
    "I have more pressures than ANY of you! Have you ever tried replacing a cockroach's blood with Root Beer?"
    "You know I haven't!"
    "Then don't judge me!"

    SkeletalRemains
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    Lynn's Avatar
    Lynn is offline Obssessed Haunter
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    Very good post, I didn't really understand until now......Thanks !! Helps a lot.
    Sometimes I need PICTURES ! HA HA HA
    Lynn

    If I build it, will they come ?
    http://s146.photobucket.com/albums/r247/p0032/
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    Bucky's Avatar
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    Got my first 4way 5 port valve off ebay today in the mail.

    Now I'm ready to get started.... Next I need to know the best method for connecting the wires up to an electrical outlet. I'm assuming since this is 110VAC I can go ahead and just wire it up to an extension cord that has been butchered. Are there better ways to hook it up?

    Can't wait to build my body slinger...

    My wife is getting nervous, my hobby is becoming an obsession...
    Regards,

    Bucky
    Just another 4th rate Skeleton
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    First solenoid! Way to go!
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    SkeletalRemains's Avatar
    SkeletalRemains is offline The Great Pumpkin
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    Hey Bucky,

    Just in case, check to see if the wires are red and black, or white and black. If they are white and black, it is AC (most likely 110V), but if the wires are red and black, then it is DC (either 12v or 24v).

    Actually, the best thing to do is check on the bottom of the solenoid, and (I think you got an STC valve, right?) there should be a voltage indicator (white lettering) that says something like AC110V or DC24V, or DC12V. That will tell you for sure what the solenoid voltage is.

    If it is 110VAC, just make sure to be VERY careful! As long as you've worked with that kind of voltage in the past, and know the dangers with line voltage. All you have to do is connect a plug and switch up to it. The best wiring to use is an old computer cable, since those are always heavy duty enough to handle stuff like this, rather be safe than sorry. If you just want to test it out for right now, you can wire a direct plug up to it, and then plug it into a socket that turns on and off by a light switch (like for a lamp). Then you can switch it from a distance to test without being right there next to it.

    Do you need help with the air connections? If so, let me know. This valve uses all NPT ports, either 1/8" NPT (exhausts EA & EB) or 1/4" NPT (input P and output A & B).
    "I have more pressures than ANY of you! Have you ever tried replacing a cockroach's blood with Root Beer?"
    "You know I haven't!"
    "Then don't judge me!"

    SkeletalRemains
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    AliveNBuried's Avatar
    AliveNBuried is offline Mad Scientist at Large
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    Excellent tutorial, S.R.. Let's keep the education going.
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    You got it, here's part 2 of the primer!
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    SkeletalRemains's Avatar
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    OK, after some work, here is the next part of the solenoid primer!

    Enjoy!







    "I have more pressures than ANY of you! Have you ever tried replacing a cockroach's blood with Root Beer?"
    "You know I haven't!"
    "Then don't judge me!"

    SkeletalRemains
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    Couldn't fit it all, more of part 2 of the primer
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    SkeletalRemains's Avatar
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    I couldn't fit all the images before, so here's the last part..



    "I have more pressures than ANY of you! Have you ever tried replacing a cockroach's blood with Root Beer?"
    "You know I haven't!"
    "Then don't judge me!"

    SkeletalRemains
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    Bucky's Avatar
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    Yep, I got an STC. Wires are black and white.

    It says:

    AC110V 60Hz 4VA
    Amp 50mA

    This is the same one that is pictured in your primer photos for the 5 port, 4 way.

    As for electricity, I'm pretty familiar with it. I've had to rewire several things in my house, and I've built some props that hook up 110V to light sockets. I've also been shocked by 110v and it's not fun, it actually threw me back about 4-5 feet on my butt. But that wasn't my fault, I was cleaning a snake cage and a rat had chewed the wire to the heat rock. I didn't notice and when I grabbed the wire I got it. I couldn't even finish my sentence when it lit me up. Good thing it wasn't deadly.

    What size tubing do you use? 3/8" tubing?
    Regards,

    Bucky
    Just another 4th rate Skeleton
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