Has Anyone Made This Skeleton Cage

Dark-Knight · #1 (**permalink**) 01-05-2006, 10:02 AM

Well after a short absence from here I am finally back I now I get to start on my first project of the year here is the link to it Skeleton Cage

Has anyone made this skeleton cage I was going to make one last year but when I went to get the lath strips they were $30 for one bundle I would need two of them and I am not paying that much for them what I am going to do is get a 2x4 and cut it into strips with my table saw if any one here has made one did you have any problems making it do the staples work ok and does it hold to normal bumps and damage if not I will cut the strips a little bit thicker

Joel · #2 (**permalink**) 01-05-2006, 03:31 PM

Word of warning with the 2x4s. I've found the last few studs I've gotten were still wet wood. Cutting them into strips will result in major warpage if you leave it sitting around after being cut. Assembling as soon as you cut your strips may limit the bending, but no guarantees.

rainy · #3 (**permalink**) 01-05-2006, 05:16 PM

If you look for kiln dryed wood it will warp a lot less after cutting. being the cheap b@$t@rd that I am, I do a lot with 2x4's[get them free at work]. most big retailers offer both green[wet] and kiln dried[KD] studs. You need more boards than what you think to get that many latth strips, unless you can find knot free straight grain studs? A lot of what you cut won't be that usable.

putrid · #4 (**permalink**) 01-06-2006, 06:32 AM

Have you thought about using plywood? 3/8 to 1/2 inch would probably do you good. Paint it after you cut it and before you assemble. This will seal all you cut edges and help keep each piece straight.

Rainy, LOL all the wood I get out of the dupsters at work still bleeds.

LHALLOW · #5 (**permalink**) 01-06-2006, 07:34 AM

I love that cage! I immediately thought plywood would make a good substitute. Oooo, how about taking metal strips and soldering....now that would be cool!

rainy · #6 (**permalink**) 01-06-2006, 09:16 AM

putrid, most of the wood I get from work comes from the planer mill after it gets out of the drying kilns. If you know the right person, the reject pile will contain exactly what you need.

I always try to know the right person....

Dark-Knight · #7 (**permalink**) 01-06-2006, 09:51 AM

LHALLOW I rely like the idea of metal strips I wouldn't need to paint it just leave it out side to rust naturally and metal strips aren't that hard to find

rainy I live within a hour of three different lumber mills so most the wood I get is from there reject piles besides I think the wood looks better when it is ruff cut

Gym Whourlfeld · #8 (**permalink**) 01-06-2006, 09:51 AM

"the reject pile will contain exactly what you need?"
Don't go to a bar with this attitude!

There is always the long-forgotten science of the pop-rivet when it comes to attaching metal to metal if the pieces aren't too thick.
Straps of steel would make an excellant and very durable cage, that skeleton would never escape.......but if he did, WATCH OUT!

Dark-Knight · #9 (**permalink**) 01-06-2006, 10:04 AM

Gym Whourlfeld what is a pop-rivet and how difficult is it to do

TommyHawk · #10 (**permalink**) 01-06-2006, 10:16 AM

Pop rivets look like nails with a little sheath/tube over one end. A pop-riveter is a simple little device (sort of like a staple gun in reverse). Drill a small (correct size) hole through both strips, then stick the sheath-end of the pop rivet in there. You stick the other/skinny end into your pop-rivet gun, squeeze, and the gun pulls the nail up through the sheath (compacting it), and breaks the nail off with a "pop". Voila - instant rivets.

You know those small wood "nubs" they sometimes put over screw holes? Something like that would be cool to simulate rivets where the strips intersect...