Thread: Giant Candles with realistic wax drips

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Hello all,

I have exhausted all attempts, without going to forums, so now I have scoured many forums for this info, and I think there are others that have had this question at some point; I just haven’t seen it brought up.

By utilizing cement pillar forms, I am building Giant Candles, ranging in size, from diameters of 8, through 48 inch, with varying heights, up to twenty feet.

The question is, with these sizes, how in the World, does one create realistic (scale) wax runs, drips and puddling?

I have been attempting this for several months.

All of the materials, and methods are not giving authentic looking results.

I've used two part foam, with viscosities between low to high, and high to low cure times.

I have videoed many types of candles, with all types of wax material.

With the anatomy of molten wax, as it runs down the candle column, it is being cooled by the column, and air.

The solidified drip has a hanging belly, with an upper area, curving and tapering into the run.

As each run cools, they are sometimes wide and more thick at the top, narrowing and thinning at the end of the run.

Some times, as the drip runs, the outer skin will burst creating a fine point with no drip remaining at the run end, but the drip creates a splash puddle on a flat surface, or cradle, where the candle is sitting.

There are also runs/drips, on top of each other.

These runs and drips, can’t have an applied appearance. I suppose, I could use Bondo, and sculpt each drip by hand, and that’s going to happen.

Many other materials have been attempted, with mixed poor results.

I appreciate everybody, and the willingness, to aid other in need, here at halloweenforum.com.

As I find open time, I look forward to helping others, if there is a need.

Thank you, Tim

Have you tried great stuff foam? It's a staple for lots of halloween crafts/props...

You could probably do runs of the foam - roughing in the long run and rounded drip part, and then let it start expanding/solidifying just enough so you can go back with GLOVED hands and work the foam into smoother shapes. You may still have to sand it some after it is fully dried, but I would imagine this would be a good solution that doesn't take years to create all the candle drips for your project.

A few tips I learned the hard way:
• It comes out looking like intestines (just a fun fact )
• It will stick to EVERYTHING. Wear gloves (plastic or even medical supply ones) and your work surface should be covered in plastic (garbage bags or something)
• If you get it on bare skin, not much will get it off - you will have to wait several weeks for it to come off on it's own
• do it outside, in a place where it won't be a horror to clean up
• it will ruin clothes
• It expands a bunch... but it is possible work it after about 15 minutes to push it into shapes you want (but use pieces of cardboard or gloved hands...) when you might be able to use your hands (in the plastic gloves) and (maybe try cooking spray to mist your gloves to minimize the sticking - haven't tried this but it was something I was definitely going to do next time) to smooth/sculpt the surface.

If you've never worked with great foam, here are a few links that will help:

Great Stuff Questions

Making Pumpkins - any new methods or ideas?
(this is making giant pumpkins out of the foam and other methods, but it can give you an idea of how to work it for larger scale projects)

I'm sure there's other good ideas on here.

Welcome to the forum!

I seem to recall one member making drips on a sheet of glass or some smooth surface first and then layering them onto a big wagonwheel chandelier to create huge wax buildup. It looked great!

Hello Frankie’s Girl,

Yes, I did use great stuff minimal expanding version, plus the fire brick, and pond versions.

All of these with different room temperatures, can temperatures, and varying room humidities, also, different sized tubes on the nozzles.

The thing with poly foams, and actually anything foaming, is the same as molten wax, as it drips, the drip will run, and some times the cooling skin will rupture, allowing the remaining molten wax to drop from the run.

With foam, it bulges, and the bulges are a result of thin skin areas, and gasses forcing from behind the outermost bubbles, and that thin skin wanting to rupture.

I appreciate the ideas, Tim

Hi Deadna,

I really like the lay-up technique, on a sheet of glass and layering. I have used the technique several times in the past, for other jobs.

If I were to have sacrificial forms, of all of the dimensions needed, they could be prepared for lay-up, with release.

These have to be HD camera ready, and can not have unnatural edges.

All of the candles vary in size, and there will be singles, several clusters, and couples.

These have to be rugged, and light as possible.

The person that brings STUFF to life, will do a better job, during set-up.

Unfortunately, we will not be on location, when they are.

Thank you for your suggestion, Tim

Deadna, where did you see the comment about the “big wagon wheel chandelier to create huge wax buildup”?

I am not locating it anywhere on the WEB.

Thank you, Tim

It sounds like you are going for absolute realism for a movie or something similiar.....You may want to check the smooth-on web site and talk to the folks there....They have alot of experience working with people who create movie quality props and can probably give you better direction than any of us here could....They offer different solutions to what you are trying to do and could give the best advice.....Here's a link http://www.smooth-on.com/ Good Luck....ZR

Originally Posted by TABLESAWTIM

Hello Frankie’s Girl,

Yes, I did use great stuff minimal expanding version, plus the fire brick, and pond versions.

All of these with different room temperatures, can temperatures, and varying room humidities, also, different sized tubes on the nozzles.

The thing with poly foams, and actually anything foaming, is the same as molten wax, as it drips, the drip will run, and some times the cooling skin will rupture, allowing the remaining molten wax to drop from the run.

With foam, it bulges, and the bulges are a result of thin skin areas, and gasses forcing from behind the outermost bubbles, and that thin skin wanting to rupture.

I appreciate the ideas, Tim

Ah, but are you putting the foam on the candle forms as they would actually BE formed; i.e. candle upright, foam applied at the top and allowing it to drip down under its own weight? If so, I'd suggest you try creating the foam runs on a horizontal surface - forming long runs with a bit more at the end of the area where the drip would naturally end up if this were vertical - and use your hands and other tools to move the foam into the correct shape once the foam is a bit more solid and able to be molded.

See, if you're counting on the foam to form the drips naturally, I can see where the surface tension and other factors would mess up due to the large size you are attempting. By forming the drips separately on a flat surface, you'd have more control over their formation, less chance if the drips deforming and more able to carve/sculpt the foam with your (gloved) hands to achieve the look you're going for.

Once they dry, you can then take the foam drips, apply them to the columns (using a bit more foam on the underside to attach) and smooth out using sandpaper, caulking, etc...

That's my theory, anyway.

Originally Posted by TABLESAWTIM

Deadna, where did you see the comment about the “big wagon wheel chandelier to create huge wax buildup”?

I am not locating it anywhere on the WEB.

Thank you, Tim

Here it is,it looks easy enough to add as much as you need and just add more to seal/blend edges.

http://www.halloweenforum.com/groups...11-season.html

That wagon wheel chandelier is fantastic. simply fantastic.


Might I recommend some 5 minute epoxy as well? The stuff cures very quickly and begins to harden almost too soon. But for making drip runs, it'll get to a higher viscosity very quickly. So making small batches in 5oz Dixie cups and dripping everywhere lets you work quickly, get long drips that cure up quickly, then you can blend up the next batch. If you mix it up and immediately start dripping, you'll get the long runny streaks. If you mix it up and let 2 minutes go by, it will drastically effect how much it drips and runs. So you might be able to practice a bit, and get the procedure down to the exact amount of time needed to set, then start dripping. The 5-minute epoxy is very fast acting, so even a difference of 30 seconds will change its behavior.

Most hobby shops also have 30 minute epoxy, which would give you more working time, if you need to be more patient and get more specific drips or puddles created. And yes, I'd still recommend some pratice runs, maybe changing your wait time intervals by every 5 minutes.

I'd recommend getting a sheet of El Cheapo glass or the blank plastic board sign material from Home Depot, and use a Sharpie marker to write down all your dest drips. Have one pane of glass/plastic for 5-minute epoxy, and wait times of 30 seconds, 1 minute, 1:30, 2:00, 2:30 and 3:00. Then do the same for the 30-minute epoxy, but at 2:00, 5:00, 10:00, 15:00 and 20:00 intervals. Then you have your samples to keep handy, once you start working on your actual candle pillars. So depending on how you need your drips to look, you can reference your samples as you mix up your batches.