Thread: prop making supplies

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I love to do paper mache, but honestly it takes a long time to put on enough layers to make a prop durable, takes a few days for it to dry, and then if it isn't sealed properly it only takes a few seconds to get destroyed. I have been looking around for more durable supplies like liquid latex, foam, etc. I like what I see on monstermakers.com and was wondering what other sites would be a good source for prop making supplies.

Originally Posted by Pennywise

I love to do paper mache, but honestly it takes a long time to put on enough layers to make a prop durable, takes a few days for it to dry, and then if it isn't sealed properly it only takes a few seconds to get destroyed. I have been looking around for more durable supplies like liquid latex, foam, etc. I like what I see on monstermakers.com and was wondering what other sites would be a good source for prop making supplies.

Paper mache can be pain but if you want quicker drying times use the white glue recipe instead of the flour recipe. I started with the flour recipe and like you said it was taking a day or more with a fan blowing on it. I cut that time by 1/3 by using a heat gun or good hair dryer to speed it up. Just be careful about staying too long or too close in one spot. If you use the white glue recipe it drys really, really fast, epically with a fan on it. Mine hardened in less than an hour with just a fan. If you do three layers at one time it will take longer, but I am sold on using the white glue recipe now.

As far as weather treating, you will have to do that no matter what you use. Every prop will need to have some sort of weather coating. If you think it is going to rain, I would throw some plastic over my good props anyway, even if they were treated.

The sheer cost of the other materials can drive the price of a prop in the hundreds of dollars range.

Monster mud is great but heavy. While latex and foam and pretty much waterproof, using them outdoors can affect their lifespans. Heat, cold, sun and wind can all lead to premature cracking.

How about plaster cast?



A couple of layers of this with a coating of drylock should be pretty durable.

You can get it here:

http://www.sciplus.com/search.cfm?ut...=0&btnHand.y=0

The good thing about using foam latex is it will absorb water, which is why people use it for masks. As to how much water it can take I don't know.Also foam latex takes 1 coat inside the mold unlike liquid latex which takes 10-12 coats to get good thickness. But with liquid latex you need to bake it. I read somewhere you could just let it sit for a week because all baking it does it take the excess water out of it. Hope this info helps. Good Luck with 2012.

Thanks all. For 2012 I am planning on sculpting a lot of the props...severed heads, hands, masks, etc. I can make a pretty cool rotted skull out of paper mache, but the only way I know to make a freshly chopped off head is by sculpting it. I know some people have used carpet latex and others have said to stay away from it. I want to try to make some paper mache props and some sculpted props. Hopefully they all come out all right

If you want a hardened shell, use epoxy resin. You can get 5 minute stuff for construction, or 2-hour stuff for putting a coating over a large project.