Thread: Prop Failure - Solenoid malfuntion (and they were relatively new)

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I've got 5 solenoids for my pnuematics. I had 2 of them fail right before the Trick or Treaters arrived.

Both of them were tested a week ago, and one of the two did show an indication that it might fail "open" (it was an air blaster). The bigger suprise was a new 3-way solenoid that failed open, and sadly, my prop "Trash can Trauma" had to sit idle. I get my solenoids from Fright Props.



Have any of you other "air" users had similar problems? Any solutions that I'm overlooking?

UPDATE- I just discovered a "How-To" section on Fright Props, that addresses how to lube "sticky" solenoids. Wish I'd seen that earlier, and not in the last few moments before the trick or treaters arrived.

I had 4 new solenoids from Fright Props this year and they all worked flawlessly throughout the weekend and last night. I do know the FP solenoids seem to have a minimum pressure of 20 PSI or more that they need to work properly. My other solenoids from Automation Direct seem to work even with a much lower PSI.

Thanks Jack... I just discovered a fright props section that addresses how to lube sticky solenoids. Looks like I'll be doing some repairs as part of my "after-action" clean up.

This is probably too early for next year to ask.. but I will anyway.. first of all what solenoids are you using? Second, what exactly can they do? The only solenoid I know of are those on cars the pop trunk pins and door locks. How much are these and how can they be used? I am guessing they are relatively inexpensive and can give some cool scare value for little money/time?

Thanks.

Hey Andjarnic, you can see solenoids at FrightProps.com, and they have some pretty good videos on there, too. They work well- just started to use them 2 yrs ago, and once you lose your fear of the unknown, they can power your toughest props.

Did you supply the correct voltage to them. If you use 120v on a 12v solenoid you will destroy the relay. You need a 12v power supply to marry it with 12v solenoid. Make sure you match the voltage. This could have been a problem for you. At least this is my guess on why so many failed on you.

If it isn't this then somtimes they do stick. Just reset the solenoid by pressing the button. This fixes that problem.

Never had a solenoid fail and I have used hundereds unless you mess with the voltage

Hands down, nothing beats old washing machine or dishwasher solenoids. These have never failed me, despite years of use - without any lubrication. Only drawback is they run on 110V, so you have to be more careful about covering leads and connections.

A few things I would check
1- Are you using any filters ont the supply side of the solenoid, air or oil and water seperators?
2- Are the solenoids being lubricated by a lubricater?
3- Are there any reservoir tanks being used that could be contaminated with dirt and or rust inside the tank?
4- Were the solenoids stored with the ports open? Allowing dirt or dust to enter the open port?
It sounds like what you are describing is a sticking spool inside the valve itself. That can be caused by dirt ,lack of or too much oil . I would disassemble the valves , noting which way it comes apart , and look for dirt, excess oil or possibley some bad "o-rings" . Clean them and lightly lubricate them ,I use Lubri-plate white lithium grease,and reassemble. Also check the solenoid itself for free and smooth operation . If the coil can't move the operater then the valve will seem to stick. Check any springs ,if any ,are clean and not broken . Hope this helps.

BF, thanks for the suggestions. I've set the gizmos off to the side for testing and repair, while I do the "big cleanup", which has priority. Appreciate the recommendation on a lube type.
All my solenoids are new, or relatively new. One of the two that failed was new, and tested OK a week prior, so that was a big surprise.
I don't use filters at all... What is the benefit of using a water seperator?

Using a water separator will ensure you have dry air and no condensation in the lines. If you start getting water in the lines it goes through valves, cylinders, etc. It can cause rusting if severe. I also have an auto drain on the bottom of my compressor which will open the drain for a few seconds to blow any condensation out of the tank. Some say it's overkill, but I have pretty much trouble free operation. Hope this helps.