Thread: Wall Wart for 4 RPM 12 VDC GEARMOTOR

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Hi All,

I picked up some 4 RPM 12 VDC gearmotors (https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.a...tname=electric)
and know that I need to get 12VDC wall warts, but what should the output amperage be?

Thanks for the help!!!

Kim,

What do you intend on doing with these? FYI these are very cheap. They are intended to move vents in car air conditioning. All plastic including bearings. As far as wart? Again what is the load? What is the stall on the motor? That is the maximum amperage draw the motor can handle before it stalls. But if you intend on using them, then a wart that can offer .5 amps will likely handle anything this motor can draw. The actual motor inside of one of these is smaller than the diameter of your thumb. The 9.95 unit would be a better choice. You could just run at 5 volts.

spinman1949,

I was planning on making the following:

One arm grave grabber - http://www.fulcrumsites.com/haunt/ht...e_grabber.html

Grave popper - http://www.youtube.com/user/crawford.../3/0mQIxTYq7vI

Grave digger with moving head & arm -

I have seen all of these made with X-mas deer motors. From what I had been reading on this forum, the motors I ordered had more torque and could be used in place of the deer motor (or so I thougt).

I do want to make a FCG as well and have seen people use what I thought was this motor, but will go with a motor more like the Dayton.

By the way, do you have a link to the $9.95 motor you're refering to?

Please feel free to comment.

The prop you show in the video on has very little load. These motors will be fine for that. And yes they are equivalent to a deer motor. The FCG puts quite a bit of lateral stress on the output shaft of the motor. So you are better off with a self lube bearing. Most of the gear motors have them. The grave grabber may be a bit more of a challenge. Quite a few people use shiatsu massagers for this. Our club just did a build. I am trying something a bit different, but I also have the tools to do it. The popper is likely OK but watch the weight. That is a vertical dead lift. As far as the link to the 9.95 motor. Just go to your link and look for the PDF symbol.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/pages/Catalog284-148.pdf

The other motor for 18.99 is better but I can not tell if the output shaft is on both sides. Can't mount a crank on the side that has the can motor on. You could extend the shaft but you would need another bearing.

After looking at it closer it might be a bit if a challenge to use. It has no output shaft. The Dayton type motor appears to be the best bet for a FCG. Now you could use 3 motors for a FCG. Some people have been kicking that around. If each motor had different input voltage, you would end up with a much more random movement. You would have to space the motors far enough apart to make sure the arms did not collide with each other.

Just keep in mind that you want the prop to be over powered not underpowered. Nothing worse than a prop failure in the middle of the big night.

Monoprice has inexpensive 12v adapters:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/su...10&cp_id=11009

Since they are not regulated, you are probably better off getting the 0.5A than the 1.0A. The voltage might spike too nigh.

Parts Express has some regulated ones, look under both 12v and Universal:

http://www.parts-express.com//power-electrical.cfm

Yup good advise on warts. Many know that unregulated can on overload get hot and drop off of rated voltage. Fewer know that an unregulated can actually put out more voltage than rated if it is not subjected to designed load. If these motors pull 20 MA no load I doubt they can even pull. .5 amp. But I think the ,5 amp is the right choice.

Originally Posted by spinman1949

Kim,

What do you intend on doing with these? FYI these are very cheap. They are intended to move vents in car air conditioning. All plastic including bearings. As far as wart? Again what is the load? What is the stall on the motor? That is the maximum amperage draw the motor can handle before it stalls. But if you intend on using them, then a wart that can offer .5 amps will likely handle anything this motor can draw. The actual motor inside of one of these is smaller than the diameter of your thumb. The 9.95 unit would be a better choice. You could just run at 5 volts.

I'm going to disagree with you on this motor for the size and price you can't beat it. It has excellent torque for it's size and it can take the abuse of running a peeker prop for 72 straight hours. I know the specs says int. duty but I tested the peeker prop for 3 days and it was still going when my wife cut it off.

I know some haunters use this motor for on their FCG and had no problems with it and Dave in the grave has made all kinds of props with this motor...even a see-saw.

kimcfadd if you have a thrift store in your area go to it and you will or should find some wall warts that will work. I tested it on 9v and it was still at 4-5 rpms and I also burn one up with a 30v wall wart. Look for one that has a out put of 11-15 vdc and 400 or up Ma/amp. You shouldn't have any problem finding a wall wart to run this motor.

Madmax,

I just tend to steer away from non rated motors. There are no specs on this unit. No stall rating. No torque rating. I design based on anticipated load.

To each his own.

That is the same motor I built my FCG out of last year. Trust me it works, here's the video to prove it...

Very nice. The motor appears to handle the load well. Using plexiglass for the arm was a good idea. Kept the weight down.

I will most certainly consider this motor for props.