Hey all,
I have found that taking pictures of props is a challenge.
If I use automatic settings on a digital point & shoot, the flash washes out so much colour. If I use a manual setting the prop looks too dark or blurry even if I use a tripod.
Anyone have suggestions? I've seen some really great shots in this forum.
Thanks
Thread: Photography Techniques
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Photography Techniques –
06-08-2011,03:46 PM
Doctor Grim
www.legacyofhorror.org
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06-08-2011,04:39 PM
Try turning off the flash if you have a good lit area that the prop is in, another setting I use is Vivid, it helps bring out the colors without bleaching out with a flash, props looks good in Blk and white too
Don't throw that out, I can make that into a......................
http://www.halloweenforum.com/member...ps-set-up.html
http://www.halloweenforum.com/member...-horsemen.html
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06-08-2011,05:04 PM
What camera are you using? A lot depends on the features of the camera. I used an Olympus point and shoot on a tripod for most of the shots in my profile. The key to using a tripod and long exposure is to push the button and then don't touch the camera until the picture is taken. I think mine turned out pretty well (Available Light feature) but most of them are very grainy due to the cheap camera.
Men of broader intellect know that there is no sharp distinction betwixt the real and the unreal...
~H.P. Lovecraft
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06-08-2011,05:56 PM
I mostly use a Canon G10. I think it's a pretty good camera, just a lousy photographer.
Doctor Grim
www.legacyofhorror.org
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06-08-2011,07:19 PM
Are you talking day or night shots?
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06-08-2011,07:58 PM
A trick I have used before is to put tape over part of the flash to reduce the brightness of the flash. I've also done it by holding a finger over part of the flash.
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06-08-2011,09:07 PM
Hmmm... Thanks for the tip BuckaneerDeed! I will definitely try that!
A Halloween prop is a terrible thing to waste..
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06-08-2011,09:25 PM
If you're taking a photo of a static prop, don't use the flash. This'll get you the best color, but you'll need to use a tripod. Put the camera in timer mode, push the button, then get all (of your) body parts away from the camera until the shot's done. If auto's not working, don't be afraid to dip into manual mode, to get the shot right - the prop's not going anywhere.
If you do have people in the scene, that complicates things. You want to freeze the people, but still get the natural lighting of the props, as well. One way to do this is to use flash, but put the camera into manual mode (or shutter priority), and force the camera to expose the scene for longer, *after* the flash. This will freeze your victims, er, ToTs... but will also properly expose the natural lighting. You do get weird ghosting w/ this method too, though... but hey, isn't that the point?
Human(oid) without flash + long exposure = blurry human(oid), even though on tripod, but nice color

Human(oid) with flash + long exposure = frozen Human(oid) and nice color

Potential ghosts with above technique - subjects moved after flash, but before exposure was complete

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06-08-2011,09:46 PM
A lot of photography has to do with the light source surrounding the subject. That is why outdoor shots in the daytime tend to turn out so well because of the natural light.
Indoors, standard incandescent bulbs will give off a yellow cast. Fluorescent builds will give a green or blue tint to the subject.
In conjunction with the ti-pod, and turning off the flash go to to your local photography shop and invest in some natural spectrum light bulbs. Calumet sells the basic ones for under $10.00. Any flood light holder will do, you can even make yourself an inexpensive diffuser out of a wire coat hanger and some white fabric.
The difference will amaze you.To avoid criticism say nothing, do nothing, be nothing. Aristotle
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06-09-2011,03:28 AM
Not trying to be a thread hi-jacker, but we were discussing this very subject over here.....Please help me with photography?



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