Thread: Help with "monster in the garage"

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Ok, so even though I'm only a junior in the home haunt world, I've decided to channel all this new haunting excitement into a pretty big project for a noob, and drawing it out now seems like a good idea as I am a procrastinator. I want to use the idea from the assylum door, and turn it into a monster in the garage.

I was thinking of building false panels. Maybe the bottom two on the garage door itself, and assembling them in a way similar to the assylum door, and achieving ulitmately the same effect, someone or something kicking and banging on the door from the inside and leaving many large dents in the panels. Seems like a lot, but I think it would be much easier for a rookie, rather than syncing video, connecting a monitor etc., just sound.

So, I guess the first step would be acquiring some hardware. Being so new to the haunt world, any suggestions as to what kind of air cylinders/electric servos, programs I should use would be greatly appreciated. I'm an aircraft mechanic and very handy and skilled with tools, and pretty familiar with "technical terms," atleast until u start talking hardcore electrical, so once again, any ideas and/or suggestions will be VERY helpful. Thanks a lot in advance, and sorry for reposting this in the future.

Still will need to sync the sound.

I will look for a build I saw somewhere. Bottom line you will still need the control board that will respond to the tones to fire different solenoids to produce the dents. But you could use VSA for this, since there is no video. VSA can work with sound, so you will need a solenoid control board.

Could be as simple as a kit74 triggering the solenoids controlled by Vixen or VSA. Sounds like a cool idea.

I would try contacting Terra! She is a real pro-haunter here at the HF! She can point you in the right direction I'm sure! Sounds like a great plan though! Can't wait to hear more about it!

There are others on here who know far more about VSA programming than me but I'll throw some of my thoughts your way. Understand that I've only used VSA via DMX signaling (DJ kind of stuff) and I don't understand how to do it otherwise but there are other ways.

I see two ways of controlling a prop. VSA and stand alone controllers (like PicoBoo)

VSA/DMX Option:

This is software on your computer so a computer needs to be nearby your prop. VSA ($50) is the program that plays the routine you wrote which would have the song and the commands on when the solenoid has to fire. You then need a way to send that signal to the solenoid of the pneumatic cylinder. For that I use DMX. You will need the Enttec Open DMX USB interface ($60). A 5 pin to 3 pin DMX adapter ($6), DMX cable ($7) to a DMX relay/dimmer box ($100) and a DMX terminator ($7). You plug in the power from the solenoid into the DMX relay. When you press the enter key on the computer with your VSA program loaded into it, the routine will start. Total cost for this controller ($230).

For sound you hook up speakers from your computer to the door.



PicoBoo 104:

This is a stand alone controller so your computer isn't necessary. I've been looking hard at these for some stand alone props in my yard. This controller stores the program in it so no need for the computer to be around. It's $90 but you will also need a trigger. If you want to stand there (like you would with the VSA on the computer) a push button is about $20. But, the beauty of this box is that you can use other triggers like a motion sensor, beam sensor, floor mat. Also, you could get a long wire for the push button trigger so you could be fairly far away from the prop. Total cost for this controller option ($110).

For sound you hook up speakers from the outputs on the PicoBoo.



Both have their pluses and minus. I use the VSA/DMX because of the unbelievable amount of control and DMX devices I can use. But, I have to also buy more expensive equipment including a DMX device (DMXorcist - $400) that allows me to program timers and all kinds of triggers. DMX lighting is amazing to use with a prop and is also controlled with that VSA routine.

The drag for this option: Everything is integrated which is cool but also not cool. What if the computer goes down? I'm outta business. The plus is that this system is super flexible and easy to unplug and plug together in different configurations for different props. So, I can have a new show every year.



The PicoBoo option pluses are that they are stand alone. The negative is that I don't get to use DMX equipment and you have to have a controller for every prop.



Where do I stand on all this? I suggest you go the PicoBoo route. My system is really cool but DMXorcist is getting harder to get (the company is in flux) and is really for fairly intricate and multiple props in a haunt. The PicoBoo would be a good way to get your foot in the door and start to understand how you need to program solenoids, triggers, lights and sound. If you want to go the more ambitious route, then you can look at the VSA/DMX option. But, you'll always still find a use for the PicoBoo for separated props.

Here's a video I made a few years back showing a basic VSA/DMX set-up:

YouTube - Boogedy Halloween prop how-to of DMX, pneumatics, VSA and sound


Here's a video of how the PicoBoo works:

YouTube - PicoBoo F103 & F104 Controller Overview

Thanks a lot for all the input!

Terra, I think you're right. The picoboo sounds like the way to go for now. Considering I don't have anything else yet to run off the vsa/dmx, I think that can wait a few more years.

As far as programming the sound, it looks like you just plug the sound into the box's input, press record on the box, play the fx and try and sync the cylinders with the fx? So is the sound loop stored in the picoboo also, and triggered with the rest?

For the cylinders, I was hoping there is an electircal servo out there that can be stopped at a pre-determined length, then extended to it's limit after stopping, without having to limit the volt/amp input. For example, I want the "monster" to kick the door in one spot, then kick the same spot, making the dent even larger and deeper, hopefully using the same cylinder/servo. All the electric servos I have experience with move fairly slow, so is air the way to go for such a quick movement?

Thanks again, and this is getting me REALLY excited

I am not sure a servo is what you are looking for. Servo's are of course controllable as far as you described, but they do not have the explosive movement that a cylinder has. Trying to get servo to mimic a kick will be difficult. One idea that might work is to use a spring to provide the power for the kick and use a cylinder to reset the kick. To do this you would need three circuits. One to energize the cylinder. And two solenoid controlled latches. So one latch would be closer to the panel and the second would be further away. The first kick would be the closer latch releasing the spring loaded kicker. Then the cylinder would be activated to push the kicker back. The cylinder would push all the way back to allow the second deeper latch to hold the spring loaded kicker. You would restrict the exhaust so the release would be like a screen door closer. Here is the complete sequence.

1. = Close latch Light Lick
2. = Further latch Harder kick
3. = Cylinder

Start of sequence has kicker held at # 1

1 on = Release soft kick.
3 on 1 on 2 on = Return kicker
3 off 2 off 1 off = Kicker via controlled exhaust returns to hard kick position.
2 on 1 on = Release hard kick. Note 1 is on to allow kicker stop to bypass soft kick position.
3 on 2 on 1 on = Return Kicker
3 off 2 on 1 off = Kicker via controlled exhaust returns to soft kick position.
2 off = Once time allowed for kicker to pass hard kick stop position.

You will want to put a dampened stop to keep the hard kick from harming your prop or the rubber fabric for the kick panel. You might be able to get away with just two circuits, but that would mean that both stops would be on the same circuit. Might be a bit harder to time the release points to swap the kick positions.

Hope this helps.

I defer to spinman for his suggestions on the kicking mechanism. It sounds really cool!

For the sound on the PicoBoo: I have not used this box (yet) but it sounds like you have how the sounds work with it. The sound is stored in the PicoBoo.

Here's a video of their PicoBoo 105 model explaining how the sound is loaded into the controller. I'm thinking the sound programming would be the same for the 104:

YouTube - picoBoo FI-105 Introduction#!

oooo YEA! You guys/gals are rockin! The 105 looks perfect but I will probably go with the model without the outlets.

Spin, that spring idea sounds pretty good. That will definately take a lot more planning to accomplish. What if I mounted a cylinder on the end of the pushrod of another, activate the first one and with that one extended, activate the one mounted, pushing it farther "in." Would need double the amount of cylinders, but it may be a little easier than rigging springs. Hmmmmmmm

Ideas, ideas, ideas. Keep feedin the fire, thanks a lot!

I think you can do it the way you mentioned.

I was thinking the dent in the panel from the first kick would come out and then the second kick would result in a bigger dent. But now that I think about it, the dents with my idea would only be temporary.

When I think of your idea, I see a dent being made, and then a short time later that dent becoming larger and deeper with the second harder kick.

I like this idea better.

A ball bearing drawer guide may make a perfect platform for you. You will need the kind that has three sections. Here

http://fp.vendaria.com/vpop/VpopView...tle=&pf=t&fr=t


So the idea is to mount the soft kick cylinder to the middle section with your boot heel mounted on the last section end and the rod from the soft kick cylinder mounted to the end near the boot heel. Then you can put your hard kick cylinder on the main body and attach it to the center section. Probably want a short throw for the hard kick. You can use single cylinders and just attach return springs to the last section where the boot heel is mounted.

So with your idea, here is how it would work.

1. = Soft kick cylinder
2. = Hard kick cylinder.

1 on = Soft kick with resulting small heel dent in door. It will remain.
1 on 2 on = Hard kick cylinder now moves the soft kick cylinder outward by say 1 1/2 inches. So now the small dent gets much more pronounced as though the monster kicked the door again in the same spot.
1 off 2 off = The dents disappear and we are ready for the next sequence.

I actually think the idea of the dent remaining and then getting larger and deeper will more closely resemble the asylum effect. Not to mention it is actually easy to make with the drawer guide. Plus you won't need to worry about dampening. The cylinders will do that for you. And drawer guides are available in many sizes. They are very strong. If you really want to make a sturdy unit, you can use them in pairs.

Oh and here is a different kind. This type may be easier to work with.

http://www.dlawlesshardware.com/toor12inzipl.html