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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    small town, kansas
    Posts
    224

    Default

    Wow! Thats pretty impressive! I like...

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Blackwood Asylum
    Posts
    413

    Default


    I will try this one of these years
    Believe nothing you hear, and only one half that you see
    ~Edgar Allen Poe

    www.freewebs.com/frightningstuff

  3. #13
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Boone, Iowa
    Posts
    457

    Default

    Awesome!! If you could give a general tutorial or parts list with a diagram I'm sure MANY of us would appreciate it!

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Midlothian, Virginia
    Posts
    65

    Default

    Thanks so much, everyone!
    Rob

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Midlothian, Virginia
    Posts
    65

    Default

    Stickman6: Very close! I used an R/C control rod set by Sullivan Gold-N-Rod #S514 and slipped it inside a 3/16" steel automotive brake line bent in the shape you see. The set includes the clevises. As for head and hands I'm combing Scott Stoll's site for paper mache ideas
    Rob

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Midlothian, Virginia
    Posts
    65

    Default

    beggars alley: I'd love to make a sort of tut but I don't think I'll have time before Halloween with everything that's going on. If you or anyone wants pics or have questions about any part, I'd be more than happy to help.

    The backpack frame is an army surplus Alice pack ($10 from eBay). The helmet is a Rawlings baseball helmet with the visor cut off $16.69 from Target. The framework is 1/2" pvc. The control rod for the head tilt is a Sullivan Gold-N-Rod #S514 slipped inside a 3/16" steel automotive brake line from NAPA. Most of the rest of the materials was stuff I had on hand like scrap wood and 1/16" and 1/8" aluminum flat bar.
    Rob

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Somewhere not too far from Hell, Michigan
    Posts
    165

    Default

    Awesome movement of the head and arms.. Love the song in the background. Maybe next, you could build a flying car?

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Midlothian, Virginia
    Posts
    65

    Default

    Thanks, ernstdesigns! Lol, you guessed it--Chitty Chitty Bang Bang
    Rob

  9. Default

    Wow that is great! I am also building a "Stalkaround" this year. I'm really having a lot of problems coming up with a universal joint for the head. Any chance we could see close up pics and a description of how you make it. I understand the R/C parts, but I'm still not quite getting how it all goes together.

    What type of creature is your son going to be? This evening I just started work enlarging the pattern for the robe I will be wearing over my stalkaround. Right now its coming out to 36ft of fabric for mine...ugh.
    Great work!

    Kaffieen

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Midlothian, Virginia
    Posts
    65

    Default

    Thanks, kaffieen!

    This project all started when my son saw Gore Galore's Wraith costume and asked if I could make one just like it. I drew up the plan in the following pic and showed it to Josh but he seemed crestfallen that it didn't look like the Wraith. I guess it will end up looking like Gore Galore's costume after all.

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    Here is an overview pic showing the head mechanics. The helmet is connected to the creature's head by a length of 1/4" all thread.

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    The all thread passes through bearings that are installed in pvc tee fittings mounted to the frame. I used a heat gun to soften the tee fittings so the bearings could be press-fit into them.

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    Here is a closeup pic showing the way the control rod is connected to the helmet. There are bolts that are fixed to either side of the helmet that act as pivot points. The black object is a shaft collar that grips the end of the bolt on one side. A 1/16" thick piece of aluminum flat bar is cut into the shape of arm similar to a servo horn and is attached to the shaft collar with a couple screws. The clevis of the steel cable connects to this arm.

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    Here is a side view of the same parts:

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    The control rod (Sullivan Gold-N-Rod #S514) slides neatly into a 3/16" steel automotive brake line that is bent and secured to a piece of 1/8" aluminum flat bar using pieces of thin brass made into clamps. The aluminum flat bar is bent around the top of the helmet and pivots freely on the bolts mentioned earlier. You can also see how the all thread is secured to the top of this piece using a couple of nylon lock nuts.

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    Here is a closeup of the head mech. It's just a couple pieces of scrap wood hinged together. The bottom piece is fixed to the all thread. You can just see the end of the brake line emerging through this piece and the Gold-N-Rod emerging through the brake line. Another scrap of 1/16" aluminum flat bar serves as an arm for the clevis to attach.

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    The block of wood midway down the all thread just serves as an anchor point for the brake line to give it more support:

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    If you need further clarifying of anything just let me know
    Rob

 

 
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