Thread: so i'm making a mask...

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...and i've hit a bit of a snag.

you see the lower jaw opens and closes when i open and close my mouth, no big problem there. i've also got this upper lip, that when the lower jaw opens, the lip curls up, via clever string work, tada snarl. here comes the problem, to get the mask on without having to contort it (wire frames can only hold so long) i either need the lower jaw to come off or unhinge. no problem, a few fabric snaps and im good, except for those clever strings that make it snarl.
for the jaw to come off the strings must detach too, which wont be easy to reattach when putting the mask on. if it just unhinges im not sure what will happen. i'm confounded.

so i ask you, out there in forum land, for help solving this dilemma so that the mask can be finished and pictures can be shared.

Do you have any pics of the construction of the mask so far? That might help. I, for one, am having a hard time visualizing what you describe. Where exactly are the strings?

can't do pics till the house spits out the digital camera (effing house eats anything i need)

any how its a werewolf/dogman mask and said strings are like kite string that hooks onto the inside of the nose and go through the inside of the snout along guide loops, then down to the lower jaw, which isnt permanently attached right now, nothings set in stone until i have a plan.

i hope that helps some for visuals.

From the way you describe it, I'd have to say that the best solution might be to make the front of the mask a permanent assembly and make the back where it can open just enough for you to get your head in. You'll have a lot fewer problems in the long run because the front will hold together better.

thats an idea i've nudged around, my problem with that is keeping the back closed. velcro/ zippers and fur, not good buddies, and i don't know how well snaps would work. that will probably be what i'll go with, but i'll keep my options open for innovation.
i'll post pictures when the digital camera resurfaces.

I'm trying to get an image of your mask's workings in my mind, but your description's good. I agree, velcro/zippers and fur don't play nicely together, BUT, is it possible have the back close up with velcro or snaps on a sort of UNDER material, made of spandex or canvas or whatever you've got, and the fur then goes over that? You could have the fur permanently attached to the rest of the mask along the top of the head, and even under the ears/along the jawline, etc, but have it 'float', if you will, over the very back, so that no velcro or zippers ever have to come into contact with the fur.
I hope you see what I'm trying to decsribe here! :-)

Mike C.

i see what your saying very clearly. i've seen some costumes that incorperate under fabric for the zipper/velcro but i dont think that'll work well in my case.

the face will be all fur, short and long, that will be fixed in place. on the neck/back of the head, the fur will only be attached where necessary, under the fur i'm putting soft foam to bulk it up and add muscle.(i am scrawny and skinny weak looking werecritters just don't scare as well.) in the foam i could put snaps, but velcro or zipper might not go over well.

Layer it up is the best I can think of: foam with snaps, under lining with zipper, fur topcoat?

The only other thing I could think is possibly making the strings have an adjuster, where you don't have to detach them completely, but could loosen them enough for getting it on, then pull them back tight.

having the back open sounds like the best couse of action for this mask. snaps in the foam, fur on top, zippers (i have learned) can but a bad idea near the head, especially when its my head.
thank you all for your help!
now to find the camera.

Two pieces with elastic?
Pull it apart and slip it over.